A foodpreneur and a chef go foraging across India for the choicest ingredients which they will present as botanical bistronomy at their soon-to-open restaurant
Rust metal rods rising towards the high ceiling engulf Art Deco-style grids in an edgy installation that greets us as we step into Masque. Created by acclaimed sculptor Rathin Barman, the work replicates the soon-to-open farm-to-fork restaurant's neighbourhood. The rods represent the high-rises that are eating into the old mills, one of them being the Laxmi Mills Compound where the restaurant stands.
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Prateek Sadhu and Aditi Dugar at Masque. Pic/Atul Kamble
A huge velvet curtain, drawing from the restaurant's title of an aristocratic theatre, separates a mezzanine level from the ground one featuring wooden tables, sofas and an open bar painted in molten gold — designed by Ashiesh Shah.
"He was inspired by the Japanese style of wabi-sabi, which is finding perfection in imperfection," says mom-to-be Aditi Dugar, who bought the space to expand her bespoke catering company, Sage And Saffron, but ended up birthing a new venture with chef Prateek Sadhu, and touted it as botanical bistronomy. "We share the belief that it's important to understand the connection between food and soil. That's how the idea of farm-to-table came up," says the 33-year-old, whose CV features stints with Michel Roux Jr's Le Gavroche and Zuma in the UK.
Himalayan Rye Sourdough Bread
Ingredient is the star
The restaurant will offer only tasting menus — three, six and 10 courses (known as the Masque experience) — featuring influences of French, American and Japanese flavours. "But the ingredients will be the star of each dish," asserts 30-year-old Sadhu, who has previously worked at the acclaimed French Laundry and Noma. "At Noma, I learnt how to harness flavours from your own region. That's what we are doing here. Today, every guest wants to know where the food on his/her plate comes from. We've travelled across India to source ingredients because, for us, local extends to the entire country."
For instance, the fiddlehead fern pickled in Fiddlehead Fern Ravioli, served with a saffron sauce, comes from a farm in Himachal Pradesh. The saffron is sourced from Kashmir. A chocolate-buckwheat dessert is a marriage of Pondicherry's chocolate to Himachal's buckwheat. "And we haven't ordered them over the phone. We went foraging to various farms and sourced only from those who practise sustainable methods," informs Dugar.
Rhododendron And Champagne
Cooking up a fire storm
Sadhu will use a mix of cooking techniques, including sous vide, dehydrating and using a fire pit. "It's a progressive kitchen but no molecular gastronomy. For a potato dish, we cook a whole potato in ash, which helps retain its flavour, but also adds a charred aftertaste. It will be presented in a box, while the potato is still charring," he says. Dugar chips in, "We tried it at a farm, where it was cooked in an earthen pit."
Meanwhile, the bar will offer an Ayurveda-based cocktail menu. "The cocktail syrups are made in-house. The infusions include herbs, rhododendron (from Himachal), turmeric and roots of aquaponic basil (grown in water). We also have a concept of make-your-own cocktail where the mixologist makes a cocktail based on your preferences, which is registered in your name with a number for you to order the next time," informs Dugar, adding, "It's not a high-energy bar where you down 10 shots. The idea is to relax, connect with the food and enjoy the dining experience."
Opens ON September 20 (closed on Mondays)
Timings 12 noon to 3.30 pm; 7 pm to 12.30 am
At Unit G3 Laxmi Mills Compound, off Dr E Moses Lane, Mahalaxmi.
For respervations,
Call 24991010 (bookings open from September 10)
Email bookings@masquerestaurant.com
Cost Rs 2,200 plus taxes (three-course dinner), Rs 3,200 plus taxes (six-course dinner), Rs 4,500 plus taxes (10-course dinner)