Israel-born chef Gome Galily, who is on his way here for a pop-up, talks about shutting down his Goa eatery, and why he believes culinary schools are a sham
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“I’m not sure if you know this, but Matsya is shutting down. Today is the last day,” says Chef Gome Galily when we call to talk about his upcoming pop-up at Byculla culinary space Magazine Street Kitchen, the menu for which is shrouded in secrecy.
We’ve heard, we say. The 32-year-old chef had been running Matsya Freestyle Kitchen in Goa for three years before deciding to shut shop. What went wrong? “There were a lot of issues, from internet connectivity to electricity supply, which took away from the pleasure of cooking,” he admits.
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Moreover, the restaurant’s inland location in Pernem, off the tourist radar, wasn’t pulling in crowds. Throw in the fact that you couldn’t walk in and order a meal (there was no menu, and you needed to book a table a day in advance), and it appears as though Matsya was doomed from the start.
“We make everything fresh on the day. One day, I cooked for 20 people, and only two arrived. It made me sad. But, I don’t want to make this a sad interview. Let’s talk about something else,” he says, launching into a story that started one fateful day, right here in India.
Thank the thieves
Eleven years ago, Galily, who has his roots in Israel, arrived in India in search of inspiration. “I wanted to write; I hadn’t even considered being a chef,” he says. Alas, it wasn’t meant to be. Two weeks in, he got robbed in Rajasthan. “I lost everything, and had to start from scratch. I knew I could cook well, so I decided to do it for a living.”
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Did he consider getting a degree from a prestigious culinary school? He laughs, “These schools teach you to clean chicken and fish, and make sauces no one uses now. The best way to learn is by experience, and I started my learning by peeling potatoes and washing dishes at Le Bouchon in Monaco.”
It took yet another misfortune, this time a line cook falling ill one day, to get him his big break at Le Bouchon. Since then, Galily has worked for Michelin-star restaurants like Noma and Nahm, before setting up shop in India’s sunshine state.
Fishy talk
Galily says his cooking style is inspired from his travels around the world and, more specifically, Asia. “Food needs to be sexy. It should be fresh and must smell good. You can’t make good food using terrible ingredients,” he says.
True to this philosophy, he has befriended the local fisherfolk, a result of buying catch from them every morning. “They hated me in the beginning; I would keep instructing them, saying ‘Don’t throw the fish around, put it down gently’ or ‘Don’t cut it this way.’ But, over time, they started respecting me,” he says, adding, “Now, they know my name.”
It’s not goodbye
More travel is on the cards for the nomadic chef, who soon hopes to visit Indian chef Gaggan Anand’s eponymous restaurant in Bangkok, known for its unique take on desi cuisine. “Indian food is so playful. Your mind jumps with happiness with the explosion of flavours,” says Galily, excitement evident in his voice.
Galily is also scouring for a new location in Goa to reopen. In the meantime, he plans to host more pop-ups.
Before signing off, he says, “My father always said, ‘Meet people when they are happy.’ And cooking lets me do that.
I meet them when they’re eating, enjoying some of the best moments of their lives.”
On: March 9 and 10, 7.30 pm onwards
At: Magazine Street Kitchen, Byculla (E)
Log on to: insider.in
Cost: Rs 4,500 to Rs 5,500
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