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Mumbai Food: Classic meets comfort at this new all-day dining restaurant

Updated on: 11 August,2017 08:35 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Shraddha Uchil |

Tuck into interpretations of well-liked fare from around the world at a new all-day dining restaurant in the heart of Kala Ghoda

Mumbai Food: Classic meets comfort at this new all-day dining restaurant

Organic Black Rice Risotto
Organic Black Rice Risotto


While strolling down Ropewalk Lane, the street behind Rhythm House (RIP) in Kala Ghoda, you're likely to spot the facade of a new restaurant. This is Bake House Cafe, an all-day dining space launched by the family that also owns successful QSR chain, Carter's Blue.


Done up in shades of beige and browns, and sporting heritage floor tiles, the all-day dining space is warm and welcoming. However, we are thrown off by the random images — a macaw, Beethoven, Charlie Chaplin — that feature as upholstery on the chairs. The owners may have been going for quirky, but we fear this comes off as too loud. On the up side, the tables are not cramped together as is the case with numerous other city restaurants, and there's a mezzanine level too.


Chicken Tacos
Chicken Tacos

Chef-owner Zeeshan Shaikh has worked with Indigo, as well as kitchens in London and Turkey. Expectedly, the menu spans 20 pages, where the food occupies the sweet spot between comfort grub and fancy fare. The young chef doesn't claim that what he is serving is authentic, and admits that they've played around with flavours to appeal to the Indian palate. "These are all my interpretations of classics. I would label it as simple comfort fare," he says.

Beef Stew with Kaffir Lime and Burnt Garlic Rice
Beef Stew with Kaffir Lime and Burnt Garlic Rice

After spending a good 10 minutes scanning the menu, we pick favourites. The Shakshouka (Rs 195) packs a punch, owing to the flavourful salsa of tomatoes, peppers, onions and herbs that lies beneath the bed of baked eggs. Served with crostini, it's a good breakfast option. If you're looking for a healthy yet filling meal, opt for the Nicoise Salad (Rs 295). Each ingredient — grilled chicken, butter-tossed baby potatoes, beans, greens and wedges of boiled egg — is arranged neatly in little piles on the plate. The grilled-to-perfection chicken breast is the star.

Rotiboy Bun
Rotiboy Bun

The Dynamite Prawns (Rs 455), a dish of large, tempura prawns drizzled with Thousand Island dressing, is served in a glass, a la shrimp cocktail. The tempura batter gives the prawns a nice crunch, but we wish the dressing was more generous. The Chicken Tacos (R275) make up for this with a piquant filling of chicken, jalapenos, coriander and roasted bell peppers. However, here too, we felt the tacos could have done with a bigger drizzle of sour cream.

In the mains, the Organic Black Rice Risotto (Rs 355) stands out for being among the more unusual risotto options we've savoured in the city. Cooked with mushrooms and peppers, the dish gets a roasted, nutty flavour and chewy texture from the rice. The Beef Stew with Kaffir Lime and Burnt Garlic Rice (Rs 395) is equally interesting; with the kaffir lime leaves and zest lending the dish not just a citrusy fragrance, but also a touch of tanginess.

For dessert, we go with an unconventional option. The Rotiboy Buns (Rs 120) are a take on a Mexican bun that's baked fresh and served warm. The sweet, flaky crust crumbles to reveal the pillowy, buttery filling, reminding us what comfort food really is all about.


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