Rohit Bal, affectionately known as “Gudda,” was a revolutionary force in Indian fashion—a designer who didn’t just create garments but crafted a visual language that redefined what Indian couture could be. His passing leaves a void in the fashion world, but his legacy lives on through his deeply influential work, which merged centuries-old traditions with an unapologetically modern spirit. Bal’s designs were more than clothing; they were narratives. Each collection told a story of Indian identity, honouring our cultural heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. In an industry where trends can fade in an instant, Bal’s work remains timeless, forever imprinted on the psyche of Indian fashion. A legacy carved in craftsmanship and culture At a time when global fashion was dominated by Western aesthetics, Bal championed India’s own intricate craftsmanship. His work celebrated traditional handwork, from delicate embroidery to hand-woven textiles, often collaborating with artisans who brought his vision to life. His collections were filled with cultural motifs, lotuses, peacocks, and Mughal-inspired floral patterns that paid homage to India’s rich artistic legacy, while his modern cuts and silhouettes made them relevant to today’s world. Bal’s take on the classic “angrakha” silhouette, for instance, transformed the garment into something bold, opulent, and unmistakably Indian. He brought age old regal styles into the present, infusing his pieces with a sophistication that made them just as likely to appear on the runway in Paris as at a wedding in Jaipur. His designs bridged the gap between the past and future, creating a distinctly Indian narrative that resonates around the world. Global recognition and redefining Indian fashion on the world stage Bal’s genius was not confined to India’s borders. He was among the first Indian designers to make an impact on the global stage, showcasing his collections in Paris, London, and New York, where his work was celebrated for its authenticity and depth. His shows were not just displays of fashion; they were cultural dialogues. For instance, at New York Fashion Week, his presentation highlighted the splendour of Indian craftsmanship, drawing attention to the fact that India’s textiles and artisans were worthy of global acclaim. His international acclaim helped elevate Indian fashion to a new level, proving that the world was ready and eager to embrace India’s aesthetics. Bal showed Western audiences that Indian fashion was not simply a niche; it was a force, rich with stories and steeped in beauty. This international recognition helped pave the way for Indian designers to gain global traction, leaving behind a legacy that others could build on. Fashion as art and expression: beyond trends Rohit Bal was one of the few designers who viewed fashion as an art form rather than a commercial enterprise. His collections were never just about the season’s latest trends. Instead, he explored deeper themes, using fashion as a medium for expression. Take his “Kashmiriyat” collection, which was a tribute to his roots in Kashmir. In it, he wove together the symbols and stories of the Valley, blending nostalgia and artistry to create a collection that was as poetic as it was powerful. His famed “Gulbagh” collection, rich with florals and inspired by Mughal gardens, is another example of his thematic approach. Through fabrics and forms, he presented a vision of India that was lush, romantic, and unapologetically Indian. Bal used his collections to highlight the heritage of various regions, promoting Indian art forms like ‘zardozi,’ ‘gota patti,’ and ‘chikankari’ to new audiences, and creating renewed appreciation for the centuries-old techniques. ALSO READ: Do housewives find a sense of belonging in their roles? Memories from the industry: Tahir Shabbir remembers Bal’s magic Actor Tahir Shabbir, who had the honour of wearing Bal’s creations, shared touching memories that capture the essence of Bal’s influence. “Rohit’s designs made you feel like you were draped in a piece of India’s history,” he recalled. “There was a depth to his work that went beyond fashion. When I put on one of his pieces, it was like stepping into a story, one that connected me to something much larger than myself.” Shabbir further reflected on Bal’s unique ability to fuse elegance with a sense of rootedness. “Rohit understood the Indian spirit like no one else. He could take the simplest elements—a lotus, a peacock feather, the richness of Kanjeevaram and turn them into something ethereal. Every outfit carried his warmth and energy. For those of us who wore his designs, it wasn’t just about looking good; it was about feeling a part of his artistic vision.” As Shabbir described it, “His passing feels like a collective loss, not only for the fashion industry but for all of us who found ourselves in his creations. He gave us pride in who we are and showed us what Indian design could achieve on a global stage.” Bal’s spirit of generosity and influence on the next generation Beyond his breathtaking work, Rohit Bal was known for his generosity within the fashion industry. Young designers remember his encouragement, his readiness to offer advice, and his belief in sharing knowledge freely. His legacy is visible in the work of a new generation of designers who see him as a mentor, guiding them not just in style but in character. Many recall moments when Bal would drop into design schools to offer spontaneous advice to students or speak at fashion events where he would generously share his insights and visions. He was not just a designer but a teacher and a mentor who understood that building an industry meant uplifting everyone around him. Honouring a lasting legacy Rohit Bal’s passing is a profound loss, not only for those who knew him personally but for everyone who loves Indian fashion. His contributions are timeless; he gave us a new way to look at our own heritage and inspired pride in our cultural identity. His legacy is etched in every intricate motif, every grand silhouette, and every piece of Indian couture that now walks the world’s runways. Bal’s contributions weren’t limited to fashion. His identity and advocacy for LGBTQ+ representation in a conservative society left a lasting impact. He openly embraced his sexuality and condemned stereotypical portrayals in Bollywood, striving for nuanced, authentic representation. In the words of his dear friend Suvir Saran, Gudda—Rohit Bal’s cherished nickname—was more than just a fashion icon; he was a lifeline for many, especially those navigating their identities in an era when few openly gay figures existed in India. Saran, who met Bal at the tender age of 14, recounts the profound impact Gudda had on his life, offering him warmth, comfort, and an inspiring sense of freedom. Their bond remained strong over nearly four decades, with Gudda becoming a constant source of strength during Saran’s most trying times. Saran vividly recalls Gudda’s humour, their shared confidences, and the gentle support Gudda offered even as his own health declined. Bal’s warmth extended beyond friendship, embodying the essence of Indian hospitality, inviting people into his world, and encouraging others to express their truths. In his final days, Bal’s humour remained intact. Even as he battled illness, he complimented Saran’s colourful attire, embodying his eternally stylish, generous spirit. Moments after Saran left his hospital room, Gudda peacefully passed away, a bittersweet farewell that still resonates deeply. Reflecting on his friend’s life, Saran honours Gudda’s legacy, not with sorrow but with gratitude for a relationship as unique as the designer himself. As we look back on his journey, we invite readers to reflect on how his work has transformed not just fashion but the way we view ourselves. Rohit Bal’s vision was bold, beautiful, and boundless, and it is one that will inspire Indian couture for generations to come.
06 November,2024 10:42 AM IST | Mumbai | Anisha ShrivastavaAs Indian fashion emerged on the global stage in the late 20th century, it evolved into two distinct design philosophies: one that embraced soft silhouettes and delicate textures, and another that boldly celebrated flamboyant expressions of sexuality. Rohit Bal, the leading light of the latter movement, has passed away at the age of 63, leaving behind a legacy that profoundly shaped the industry. His work not only defined glamour but also infused tradition with modernity, creating a lasting impact on how Indian fashion is perceived globally. I was fortunate to witness his last show, Kaaynaat, as part of the Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI grand finale at Delhi’s Imperial Hotel on October 13. Over 50 models stood ready backstage, echoing the excitement that only Bal could inspire. As applause swelled, it signalled the beginning of a night to resonate long after. Bal had a unique gift for infusing emotion into his designs, often breaking away from traditional runway formats with a sense of joy and spontaneity that felt refreshing. Even as he faced health challenges, he maintained his tradition of watching the magic unfold from the sidelines. Kaaynaat, like the rest of his blockbuster shows, was more than just a grand finale; it was a celebration of heritage and modernity, a masterclass in how to honour tradition while embracing contemporary sensibilities. Bal’s designs explored themes of identity and femininity, reflecting his long-standing engagement with the political dimensions of dress. As Bal took his final bow, flanked by model Sheetal Mallar, actor Ananya Pandey, and long-time friend Lalit Tehlan, the moment was both bittersweet and deeply poignant. The atmosphere was electric, with fashion’s protean talent, Gudda, breaking into a dance to INXS’s Afterglow—a beautiful tribute to Bal's remarkable three-decade journey. Rohit Bal's legacy will forever inspire, reminding us of the beauty and magic he brought to the world of fashion, as well as the heartfelt connections he fostered through his art.
03 November,2024 10:18 AM IST | New Delhi | Shweta ShiwareBollywood actress and fashionista Sonam Kapoor wore an outfit made out of Karnataka's red soil and Multani clay and Khadi. She said the ensemble celebrates the connection to “Bhumi—the earth” and “the inner strength and pride it evokes”. Taking to Instagram, Sonam shared a string of pictures, where she is seen wearing a body ornament made out of red soil paired with Khadi lehenga and dupatta with a drizzle of gold. She completed her look with green jewels and bronzed make-up. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Sonam A Kapoor (@sonamkapoor) For the caption, she broke down her look and wrote: “Wrapped in khadi and the earth’s essence, honoring tradition and the divine within. Wearing Sinah | Body Ornament by @thevernacularmodern, crafted from Karnataka red soil and Multani clay, paired with a khadi lehenga and dupatta by @abujanisandeepkhosla.” The actress said that she was styled by her sister Rhea Kapoor and her team. “Styled by the incredible @rheakapoor and Styling Team @stylebyvanshika. This outfit celebrates our connection to Bhumi—the earth we come from, and the inner strength and pride it evokes,” she wrote. Sonam added: “This ensemble is more than an outfit; it’s a narrative on revival, grounding, and celebrating the inner Devi and Dev. Grateful to embody this poetic connection to our roots and traditions this Diwali.” The actress recently stunned in an all-black ensemble by Dior and Rhea celebrated her style. Rhea took to her Instagram to share her heartfelt pride and joy as Sonam was named the global ambassador for the renowned fashion house. Alongside stylish images of Sonam, Rhea wrote, “I’m so proud of my sister and her immense impact on taking Indian fashion global with her love for fashion, passion for the people who work in the industry, and her respect for every aspect of it.” She added, “Fashion is supposed to be fun and a tool to express yourself while encouraging others to do the same, and no one embodies that with as much brave joie de vivre as @sonamkapoor, from Mumbai to Paris.” In the photos, Sonam is seen wearing two stunning black outfits. Also Read: Dil-Luminati Tour: Raghavendra Rathore to style Diljit Dosanjh for European leg
27 October,2024 02:50 PM IST | Mumbai | IANS
With a change in season, it’s time for your wardrobe to reflect the seasonal transformation. If you are someone who enjoys layering and earthy hues, autumn is an exciting time. From cosy knits to tailored jackets and everything in between, autumn offers many wardrobe options to keep you warm and fashionable. However, it is important to have the right autumn staples to maximise the versatility of your seasonal wardrobe. From delving into trending colour combinations to layering tips, fashion designers share the ultimate guide for curating stunning autumnal outfits that reflect your style. Whether you're a seasoned fashionista or new to the world of style, these expert tips will help you navigate the autumn trends and create effortlessly chic outfits. Autumn staples for every closet “You can add a touch of personality to your autumn wardrobe by focusing on versatile pieces that reflect both comfort and style. It is best to opt for clothing that allows you to express your individuality through unique silhouettes, textures, and accessories. Some must-have autumn staples include versatile pieces that blend comfort and elegance while reflecting the season’s warmth,” says Dipti Advait, founder and designer at Nouria. She shares six autumn staples that belong in every closet:Tailored jacketsA well-fitted jacket adds structure to any look and keeps you cozy during cooler days. Opt for rich autumnal hues like oxblood or deep browns. If you prefer a softer approach to layering, drape jackets are perfect. They provide a relaxed yet chic alternative to bolder tailored options and add an effortless flow to your outfits. Draped skirts or fluid silhouettesThese offer movement and comfort while being easy to dress up or down for both casual outings and festive occasions. Floor-length dresses in breathable fabrics like cotton silk or satin are perfect for transitioning from day to evening wear with the right accessories. Layering tees and topsA collection of basic layering pieces, such as neutral-toned tees and tops, is indispensable for building a versatile autumn wardrobe as they can add warmth. These pieces can be easily paired with jackets or draped layers for an easy yet sophisticated look. By incorporating these essential pieces into your wardrobe, you'll be equipped to create a variety of stylish and comfortable looks that perfectly capture the essence of autumn.Wide-leg trousersOpt for wide-leg trousers in luxe fabrics like cotton satin or wool blends for a combination of comfort and style. These trousers are ideal for transitioning between casual and formal settings, adding a touch of sophistication to your ensemble. Signature beltsA well-placed belt can instantly elevate your outfit by cinching your waist and adding definition to flowy pieces like dresses or oversized sweaters, making your look more polished while defining your silhouette. This simple accessory can transform your look from ordinary to extraordinary. Ankle boots A pair of classic ankle boots in leather or suede is a must-have for autumn. These versatile footwear options complement almost any outfit, from dresses and trousers to skirts, ensuring you're always stylishly prepared for the season. Trendy colour combinations to try this autumn Autumn offers a vibrant palette of colours that evoke the season's warmth and richness. “Key autumn hues this season include rich and warm tones like Bordeaux (maroon, burgundy, cherry red), olive green, Klein blue, chocolate brown, and eggplant purple. By incorporating these rich and warm tones into your wardrobe, you can create stylish and timeless outfits,” shares Amritha, creative director of Kamal Hassan House of Khaddar. Below, she outlines three trendy autumn colour combinations you can try. Olive green and mustardThis autumn, there are plenty of ways to experiment with colours that embrace both bold contrasts and subtle, earthy tones. Colour-blocking is a major trend, allowing you to mix and match vibrant hues for a striking look. Try combining olive green with mustard, which creates an earthy and balanced palette, perfect for the season. These two tones not only evoke a natural feel but also add warmth and depth to your wardrobe. Chocolate brown and soft beigeFor a more classic, neutral aesthetic, pairing chocolate brown with soft beige works wonderfully. It’s an elegant, timeless combination that suits everything from layered knits to outerwear. The soft beige acts as a neutral base, while the chocolate brown adds richness and dimension, making it ideal for both casual and formal looks. Bordeaux with Klein blueIf you want to push boundaries with bold contrasts, try Bordeaux with Klein blue. The deep, rich Bordeaux against the vivid, cool blue creates a visually dynamic outfit. This combination is perfect for making a statement, whether it’s through a tailored coat paired with a bold scarf or a structured dress accented with bright accessories. It’s all about using these complementary tones to create a modern, eye-catching ensemble that remains fashion-forward. Expert tips to elevate your layered looks “Layering in autumn is all about achieving the perfect balance between style, warmth, and texture,” poses Amritha. She offers expert tips for perfecting the art of layering: Textural contrastThe key is to combine different fabrics and textures, which not only provides warmth but also adds dimension to your outfit. Pair soft, cozy knits with edgier materials like leather or lace for a dynamic contrast. For example, a chunky knit sweater layered under a sleek leather jacket creates a stylish and practical look. Experiment with different textures to add dimension and visual interest. Combine smooth fabrics like silk with rougher textures like tweed or corduroy. ScarvesA scarf is a versatile accessory that can add both warmth and style to your outfit. Choose a scarf in a complementary colour to your outfit to create a cohesive look. Experiment with different textures, such as cashmere, wool, or silk, to add dimension. HatsHats not only keep your head warm but also add a touch of personality. A statement that is in a bright colour or unique shape can be the focal point of your outfit. Beanies, fedoras, and wide-brimmed hats are timeless choices. BagsA well-chosen bag can complete your outfit and carry your essentials. Opt for bags in rich autumnal colours like brown, tan, or burgundy. Structured bags add a touch of sophistication and elegance. JewelleryBold jewellery can draw attention to your outfit and add a touch of personality. These metals complement autumnal colours and create a warm, inviting look. Experiment with layering different necklaces or bracelets for a unique and eye-catching effect. FootwearStylish autumn footwear includes tall boots, Chelsea boots, and moto boots for colder days. Chunky loafers and elegant mules are great for a polished look, while trendy sneakers offer comfort and style. For a bold statement, red pumps or strappy flats are ideal, and for casual days, everyday clogs are a great choice. Also Read: Indian men rule the bling: Statement jewellery takes centre stage
14 October,2024 09:55 AM IST | Mumbai | Maitrai Agarwal
Marked by nine nights of celebration, Navratri is a period of spiritual devotion and a vibrant showcase of Indian culture and fashion. As luminous as this occasion is, the excitement to don a beautiful traditional outfit is unparalleled among fashion enthusiasts who get ready to embrace the best of the ethnic side. Fashion experts offer tips and inspiration to help you make a statement at Navratri. Key fashion trends for Navratri “Whether you are planning to attend traditional gatherings, dance and groove over traditional beats, or hop in pandals, Navratri is a perfect occasion to explore the finest fashion trends,” says Aditi Gupta, designer at Carma India. She highlights key fashion trends that can be incorporated into your Navaratri wardrobe. Asymmetric hemlinesThis Navratri opt for asymmetric or high-low hemlines that add a contemporary twist to the traditional backdrop. The unique cuts give a unique, playful, trendy look while maintaining the essence of the festivities. You can choose a lehenga with a contrasting border and a dupatta to add elegance and grace. Vibrant colour paletteStep into the season with traditional hues like yellow, orange, emerald green, and royal blue. These colours reflect the energetic spirit of the festivities. You can never go wrong with a beautiful v-neckline anarkali suit paired with a contrasting pink organza dupatta. With a perfect flowy, lightweight, and elegant silhouette, this ensemble will make you shine in the pandals. Cape dupattasCape dupattas are a layer of elegance and easy movement for dancing all night. These add a chic element to your traditional backdrop with cape dupattas. It gives a fresh and new perspective to your look, making you embrace something unique and distinct. It’s an alternative way to ditch your traditional draping style. Steal the show with a red three-piece set that includes an embellished crop top, flared palazzo pants, and an intricately designed cape dupatta. Also Read: Navratri 2024: From peas jowar handvo to chana masala, follow these recipes to make delicious dishes during the festival Statement sleevesNavratri 2024 will be even more special with you opting for dramatic and exaggerated sleeve style. These include puff, bell, and flared designs that bring drama and style to your choli. Sleeves give a visual depth to your ensemble and make everyone drawn towards it. It’s the best way to experiment with your classic choices. Sustainability firstWhatever you opt to wear, you must realise the need to focus on sustainability. People are showing greater interest in supporting local artisans and eco-friendly ways of weaving techniques. Fashion enthusiasts are also looking for options that include hand-printing, handloom weaving, and block printing. In the search for versatile and fashion-forward options, you must not forget your roots but rather create outfits that are not just trendy but in budget. Incorporating traditional elements into modern Navratri outfits The popularity of clothing mixing ethnic and modern elements has been steadily increasing. This trend reflects a desire to connect with cultural heritage while embracing contemporary styles. “Navratri is the perfect occasion to play around with your wardrobe and showcase the best of traditional and modern fashion,” shares Gautam Gupta, creative director and co-owner of label Asha Gautam. He offers advice on blending traditional elements into contemporary Navratri ensembles and enhancing your style with accessories. Edgy blouses with Indian textiles and embroideriesExperiment with cholis or blouses crafted from Indian handloom textiles like Banarasi brocade, Patola silk, or Bandhani. To add a contemporary twist, opt for designs with trendy cuts or asymmetric hemlines. Modern silhouettes with a traditional touchExperiment with a jumpsuit silhouette, which can be a perfect choice not only for formal occasions but also for the festive season. Choose a stylish neckline and pair it with a wide-legged palazzo-style bottom. Use fabrics like Banarasi silk for a formal festive look, or Bandhani or Ikat for a more flowy, relaxed feel. Sarees with a twistDrape your saree with a crop top blouse in vibrant shades or bold prints. A ruffled saree paired with a corset-style blouse can add a glamorous touch while retaining traditional elements. Mix and match with contemporary jacketsPair an embroidered peplum blazer or a full-sleeve, open-front jacket with flared palazzo pants. Choose jackets featuring intricate zardozi or mirror work to add a festive flair. Style it with a sleek sling bag, a collection of rings, and a statement wristwatch. Flowy kaftans and dressesIf you prefer a more bohemian look, try a full-length kaftan adorned with intricate hand embroidery. Opt for fabrics like lustrous, flowy Ikat or a dark-dyed Chikankari fabric embellished with shiny embroidery details. Pair the outfit with oxidized jewellery for an eclectic yet elegant appeal. Accessories to elevate your Navratri look 1. Choose statement jewellery pieces like chunky necklaces, oversized earrings, or layered bangles. Oxidized jewellery adds a traditional touch, while shiny metallics lend a more modern vibe. 2. For footwear, pick comfortable juttis or wedges if you plan to dance the night away. If you want to add a touch of glamor, go for embellished heels. 3. A sleek clutch or an embellished potli bag can instantly elevate your outfit, adding an element of festivity. 4. Don’t forget to include a mix of rings and bracelets to complement your ensemble, and a delicate yet chic watch can be the perfect finishing touch to your festive look. Also Read: Enjoy Navratri 2024 with these famous Garba celebrations in Mumbai Styling tips for men to turn heads this Navratri “As you prepare for the celebrations, take a moment to consider the power of your wardrobe. Let it be an extension of your spirit—reflective of your journey, your tastes, and the heritage that shapes you. Explore, experiment, and let your fashion choices echo the vibrancy of the festivities,” poses Prakhar Rao, designer and founder of Zero Tolerance. He shares Oversized blazersA standout look for this festive season is an oversized blazer—effortlessly chic and imbued with a modern edge—paired with lightweight trousers and a crisp, tailored shirt. Choosing khadi pants not only provides unparalleled comfort but also pays homage to our rich textile heritage, embodying a sense of cultural pride. The texture of the khadi offers a beautiful contrast to the structured blazer, creating a visual narrative that speaks to both traditional and contemporary styles. Linen paired with Zardozi While layering is a powerful tool for self-expression, we mustn’t overlook the beauty of simplicity. Sometimes, less truly is more. For a refined yet edgy aesthetic, consider linen shirts adorned with intricate handwork, paired with striking black Zardozi pants. This combination strikes a perfect balance between casual comfort and sophisticated flair. Experimental huesColour plays an essential role in how we convey our mood and style during the festivities. I encourage you to experiment with shades—mixing navy blue with black can create a sleek, modern look that is perfect for evening celebrations. Mix it upFor those willing to embrace bolder hues, imagine stepping out in an emerald green shirt paired with relaxed cargo pants. This striking look serves as a fantastic conversation starter while maintaining a sense of ease. The versatility of this season allows for smooth transitions from lively dance-offs to more intimate gatherings, ensuring you can maintain your unique flair no matter the setting. Be a storytellerUltimately, fashion is about storytelling. Every layer, every choice, weaves a narrative that articulates who you are and what you value. Embrace the craftsmanship inherent in handmade pieces and appreciate the artistry of skilled Indian artisans. Let your style evolve as you dance your way through this enchanting season of Navaratri, allowing each outfit to tell its own story. Confidence and personal style Remember that the essence of mastering menswear lies not only in the garments we select but the confidence we exude. Each piece should resonate with your style, empowering you to engage with the joyous spirit that surrounds you. Think about how your wardrobe can reflect your unique journey while honouring the traditions that connect us all.
04 October,2024 10:56 AM IST | Mumbai | Maitrai AgarwalIndian fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur is set to syle Diljit Dosanjh with a unique sartorial collection for the European leg of the Dil-Luminati World Tour. Building upon their successful collaboration on the North American and Canadian leg of the tour, Raghavendra and Diljit have joined forces once again to create a unique on-stage fashion moment. The Jodhpur-based designer will craft a collection of twelve select bespoke outfits that seamlessly blend traditional Indian aesthetics with modern design elements. The Indian designer expressed his pleasure about the partnership, stating, "Diljit Dosanjh’s European tour is about so much more than music- it’s a celebration of our cultural heritage. "He is not just an artist. He is an ambassador of Indian music and culture across the world. It is a pleasure and an honour to collaborate with him. Diljit wanted something that was reflective of his roots yet modern and dynamic, a wardrobe that not only honours tradition but pushes creative boundaries. In this sense our synergies match- we both have a desire for Indian heritage to be represented faithfully in a global setting." Diljit Dosanjh recently made headlines for the iconic moment where he danced with Jimmy Fallon on The Tonight Show, wearing a signature design by Raghavendra Rathore. Reflecting on this freshly minted partnership, Diljit Dosanjh elaborates, "There was only one choice for me: Raghavendra Rathore. His designs are true to our Indian culture and I am Punjabi at heart and wanted to represent that. I am thrilled to collaborate with him to share the beauty of our traditions and craftsmanship with the world. Together, we will create a truly unforgettable experience for my fans.” The choice of Raghavendra Rathore for Dosanjh's Dil-Luminati Tour was an organic one. Known for his craftsmanship and deep respect for Indian heritage, Rathore's timeless designs align perfectly with Dosanjh's passionate commitment to representing Punjabi culture. This fusion ties together two brands that represent their love for India on a global scale- one through fashion, the other through music. For the European leg, the iconic Bandhgala Kurta, a look that has been made popular by the Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur brand, has been reimagined to cater to Dosanjh's contemporary global fanbase. The designs will feature a harmonious blend of traditional Indian silhouettes and contemporary elements thus being a true collaboration of two distinct brands with a common thread: India’s rich cultural heritage.
29 September,2024 08:04 PM IST | Mumbai | mid-day online correspondent
The 1990s and early 2000s were fun decades for fashion. ‘Experimentation’ was the buzzword with innovative and fearless styles taking centre stage. Dresses over pants, chunky belts and jewellery with every outfit, low-waist jeans with crop tops – these Y2K fashion trends ruled the runway and the streets alike. Almost two decades later, the fashion industry is undergoing a wave of nostalgia, bringing back the fashion of the past. 2024 is bearing witness to the resurgence of vintage fashion. The recently concluded London Fashion Week also featured collections that gave a modern twist to Y2K fashion. Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection gave a nod to Y2K trends with models wearing low-rise trousers, capris and cargo. The collection also reimagined trench coats with a modern take, transforming them into cropped jackets. Ask celebrity stylist Yashasvvi Jagparvesh Mehlawat if vintage fashion is currently ruling the runway, and she says, “I believe that fashion is ever-lasting, trends are not. But they do keep coming back to us, for example, the Y2K style which offers bright colours and a maximalist outlook to the style involving stacking up jewellery, butterfly tops, crochet tops, mini-skirts and bedazzled accessories.” Also Read: How lab-grown diamonds are disrupting traditional mining and jewellery-making Why are vintage fashion trends making a comeback? The resurgence of vintage fashion trends reflects a growing preference for timeless fashion. The allure of bringing back past trends and styles lies in evoking a sense of authenticity and uniqueness in a world dominated by fast fashion. In this dynamic industry, the past is a muse for present and future styles. Celebrities and pop culture also play an important role in the mass revival of past fashion trends. For example, Charlie XCX’s Brat Summer featured a Y2K fashion aesthetic that took the world by storm. With a wave of eco-consciousness engulfing fashion, consumers are also mindful of their fashion choices, opting for pre-loved pieces instead of buying from fast fashion brands. As a result, vintage pieces have found a place in many people’s closets. Timeless revival The vintage fashion trend that Melwani loves the most is the ‘siren core aesthetic’. She elaborates, “It brings in bell sleeves, bell bottoms and lace back in trend. The feminine glam is also added by corsets.” “One of my other favourite vintage trends is also the mob wife aesthetic,” she adds. The mob wife aesthetic resurged with a viral TikTok trend earlier this year. Francis Ford Coppola, the director of the iconic film Godfather, had also commented on it. In an Instagram post, he wrote, “I hear the ‘mob wife aesthetic’ is making a comeback…” This style is characterised by animal prints, flashy jewellery and big fur (or faux fur) coats, essentially demonstrating boldness. However, this trend received appreciation and critic alike on social media when it first resurfaced. While fashion aesthetics involve many elements, we decode some vintage clothing items and accessories that have made a comeback and are used to complete such aesthetics and styles. Bell-bottom jeans/pants Bell bottoms and flared pants were all the rage in the 70s. Their popularity continued to 90s. Skinny and well-fitted jeans took over for a while, but now, bell-bottoms are back in trend. Many celebrities like Gigi Hadid, Blake Lively and Jennifer Lopez have made a case for this style. Closer home, Bollywood actors like Sonam Kapoor and Janhvi Kapoor have also donned bell-bottoms or flared pants on many occasions. Melwani shared the following tips to style bell bottoms: • One can experiment with bell bottoms by pairing them up with crop tops, sheer shirts and body suits to accentuate the perfect midriff, giving you a taller look. • It can be worn with heels and boots. • One can wear a leather jacket and accessories the look with a hat. • Bell bottom pants can also add a perfect zing to a power suit look. Psychedelic prints Psychedelic prints are vibrant and bold, often associated with ‘dopamine dressing’. They can elevate both men's and women’s fashion. Melwani says, “When it comes to bold prints, people often shy away from wearing them or are skeptical to pull it off. I believe psychedelic prints are a perfect example of a comeback of the Y2K trend.” Here are some styling tips: • Psychedelic printed shirts can be paired with a cool pair of cargos, linen shorts or pants. • To make the print pop, one can pair it up with neutrals. • Try colour blocking for a more experimental outlook. Graphic tees Spotting someone wearing a graphic tee on the streets is the norm these days. They usually have a slogan, logo, or design on them, often providing an insight into the person’s psyche. For example, Hailey Bieber, after being called a nepo baby, actually wore a tee with ‘Nepo baby’ written on it. Celebrities and designers alike are embracing the regained popularity of this fashion item. One can choose the right tee and style it in the following ways: • An oversized graphic tee can be styled with shorts and platform sneakers. • It can also be tucked in, paired with loose denim jeans. • To experiment further, one can also pair it with a mini skirt and tall boots. • Be mindful of the design/text of the tee before wearing it to ensure it doesn’t say something you don’t intend to. Also Read: Indian men rule the bling: Statement jewellery takes centre stage Waistcoat Formal waistcoats were considered a thing of the past in women’s fashion. It is now making a comeback, with people donning it not only for formal occasion but also for casual outings. Here are some styling tips: • It can be worn over a shirt with matching trousers to get a formal look. • It can also be styled without a shirt, paired with wide-leg trousers or sleek midi skirts. • One can also opt for a waistcoat-shorts co-ord set. Ballet flats Heels are not out, but ballet flats are also in. More and more people are opting to wear ballet flats, not only for comfort but also for style. Here are some outfits that ballet flats can be paired with: • You can never go wrong in pairing ballet flats with short feminine dresses. Ensure that the colour matches the outfit. • It can also be paired with a classic jeans and top combo. Blue and black ballet flats usually work well in this case. • Avoid wearing socks or stockings with ballet flats.
20 September,2024 11:11 AM IST | Mumbai | Raaina Jain
The spirit of Ganesh Chaturthi has taken over India. Whether it is the joyous processions or crowded markets, the spirit of the ongoing celebrations and the vibrant energy is palpable. With devotion and abundant joy, devotees will be clad in traditional outfits to indulge in the festivities. Beyond the elegance of the clothing, carefully chosen accessories can elevate your look. From exquisite jewellery to complementary footwear, fashion experts will share tips on pairing accessories with your traditional attire for Ganesh Chaturthi. Popular jewellery trends for Ganesh Chaturthi Ganesh Chaturthi is a festive occasion to adorn oneself in traditional attire and complement it with stunning jewellery. As trends evolve, so do the popular jewellery choices for this auspicious occasion. “There’s a natural inclination to dress in traditional attire, complemented by jewellery that reflects cultural heritage and modern sophistication,” says Aditya Modak, CFO and COO of P N Gadgil and Sons. Below, Modak shares five jewellery trends that can embellish your Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations. Temple jewellery: A tribute to tradition With its intricate designs and rich history, temple jewellery is a timeless choice for Ganesh Chaturthi. The architecture of South Indian temples often inspires this type of jewellery, which typically features motifs like deities, flowers, and peacocks. Pair a heavy temple necklace with a simple silk saree or a Kanjeevaram to let the jewellery take centre stage. Add matching jhumkas and bangles for a cohesive look. For those who prefer a more understated style, a pair of temple earrings with a delicate gold chain can beautifully complement an Anarkali or lehenga. SEE PHOTOS: Mount Mary Church shines bright with decorations as Bandra Fair gets underwayColoured stones: Adding a pop of vibrancy Urban customers who seek a contemporary twist on traditional jewellery will love the trend of incorporating coloured stones. Choose a statement piece like a necklace or chandelier earrings with coloured stones and pair it with a monotone outfit to let the colours pop. For example, a red or green stone choker can add a fresh and lively vibe to a classic white or beige saree while also reflecting the auspicious colours associated with Ganesh Chaturthi. Layered jewellery: Elegance with a modern twist Layering is a trend that has taken the fashion world by storm, and it’s no different when it comes to jewellery. Layer multiple lengths of gold chains over a simple kurta or saree blouse for an elegant yet modern look. If you’re wearing a saree, consider draping it to show off the layered necklaces. You can also stack bangles or kadas to enhance the layered effect, giving your outfit a rich and sophisticated finish. Mixing metals: Fusion of styles Don’t be afraid to mix gold with rose gold or white gold pieces to create a unique and personalised look. For instance, you can pair a rose gold necklace with gold bangles or a white gold ring, adding depth and dimension to your outfit. This fusion of styles works particularly well with modern silhouettes like Indo-western outfits or lehengas, giving them a contemporary edge while still honouring traditional roots. Minimalist diamond jewellery: Understated luxury A delicate diamond necklace or a pair of diamond studs can be the perfect finishing touch to a simple saree or salwar suit. For an evening puja or gathering, opt for a single statement piece like a diamond bangle or ring paired with minimal accessories. This approach ensures that the focus remains on the diamonds, adding a touch of luxury to your festive attire without overpowering it. How to pair contemporary everyday jewellery “The key to pairing contemporary jewellery with traditional clothing is to find a balance that suits your style and the occasion,” poses Gauri Tandon, co-founder, Isharya. Below, Tandon shares tips to help you experiment with different combinations, so you can create stunning and modern looks for Ganesh Chaturthi. Create your jewellery signaturesTo complement your traditional attire, consider incorporating contemporary Indian jewellery designs. This fusion of old and new can add a unique and stylish element to your overall look. Matte gold finish for ethnic wearMatte gold jewellery, with its understated elegance, is a versatile accessory that complements a wide range of ethnic outfits. Its subdued sheen provides a sophisticated contrast to vibrant fabrics and intricate patterns. Boho chic with oxidised silverYou can try oxidised silver pieces if your festive look leans towards a boho aesthetic as silver pieces look better than gold with outfits featuring tie-dyed styles with bandhani or leheriya work. Vibrant gemstones for traditional outfitsNothing screams festive like jewellery in gemstones like ruby, sapphire, amethyst and emerald. These colours usually pair well with traditional Indian outfits worn during festivities. Pair modern with traditional piecesThe best way to style jewellery this festive season is to pick pieces that are modern iterations of traditional styles like modern chandbalis or chokers and make them your own by layering them with your fine jewellery or heirloom pieces. SEE PHOTOS: Mumbaikars, devotees throng Bandra Fair in large numbers around Mount Mary Church Step up your Ganesh Chaturthi looks with these footwear styling tips To complete your Ganesh Chaturthi look, choosing the right footwear is essential. The perfect pair of shoes can enhance your overall style and comfort. “Accessorising and colour coordination is dependent on what style you want to achieve. While several people opt for a resplendent style, some like to keep it understated and minimal,” says Laksheeta Govil, founder of Fizzy Goblet. She lists five essential tips you need to remember while pairing your outfits this festive season. Coordinating heels with rich sareesWhen you’re donning a rich red or green saree, you can complement it with matching heels in the same colour or perhaps add a contrast with the gold. You can opt for a gold tower heels style with vibrant sarees. Pastel and neutralWith pastel-toned sarees in powdered blues or soft cream or blush pink, you can go for ivory-toned heels or juttis, if that’s your preferred choice. Minimalist done rightIf your outfit is more on the minimal side then you can accentuate your style with traditional mirror-work adorned or jewellery-embellished kolhas or classic laser-cut pairs. Floral for festive Florals can also have their distinctive charm when it comes to dressing for Ganesh Chaturthi and other festive occasions. You can play match-up with florals by styling your outfit with floral footwear or teaming up a pastel outfit with floral juttis or heels can also do the trick. Balancing with monotone stylesIf your style is towards the elaborate side then a simple style of footwear can help you from looking overdone. While people tend to overlook the monotone styles, they are a must-have and help in balancing out any look. How to layer and accessorise traditional outfits for men With the resurgence of men's jewellery and a wider range of fashionable options, men can now elevate their Ganesh Chaturthi looks with stylish accessories. “Layering traditional outfits with accessories can seem stylish, however, it requires careful consideration to choose just the right piece that will complement your overall attire,” says Mr. Ravi Gupta, creative director of Gargee Designers. From the fitting of your clothing to the alignment of your outfits, Gupta shares easy-to-follow sartorial tips below: Well-fitted clothingMake sure the clothing is well-fitted and appropriate for the specific occasion. For instance, a traditional Nehru jacket blends historical design features with contemporary fashion. This jacket, named after Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, stands out for its Mandarin collar and fitted design. It is a versatile layering piece that effortlessly raises any attire's style. Balancing your accessoriesOne has to make sure that the accessories or embellishments are in perfect balance to the entire outfit. For instance, the width of a tie should match the lapels of a jacket, and the size of a belt should fit comfortably with the waistline of the trousers. Align colour palette Matching the accessories with the outfit’s colour palette enhances or complements the entire look. Unless the event demands a more vibrant look, do not opt for bright colours or patterns. Opt for accessories that fit with the tone of the base attire. For a kurta consider going for a matching waistcoat or a classy brooch. While layering balance is the key, with a suit a well-chosen tie can add a layer of grace without being too loud. Elegant accessories for festivalsWhen selecting accessories for traditional men's attire, consider the specific occasion and cultural context. For this Ganesh Chaturthi, regal and elegant jewellery such as pearl malas or brooches can complement your outfit beautifully. If you prefer a more casual look, expressive accessories like a fez can add a unique touch. Experiment with a touch of fusionCarrying a fusion style with a touch or look of modernity is something that makes anyone look different. For instance, wearing jodhpuri suits or pants can enhance your sense of style. These tapered pants look great with embroidered jackets or kurtas and are the perfect balance of comfort and style. Invest in personal styleWhile adhering to traditional cultures or norms, incorporate some elements of personal choices to make the outfit look classy yet unique as well. For instance, a unique pocket square or a customised watch or bracelet can elevate the look of the entire outfit. Good quality accessories enhance the overall appearance, so to ensure one should invest in well-crafted or handmade jewels or items that come out positively and are durable.
11 September,2024 04:08 PM IST | Mumbai | Maitrai Agarwal
Break free from the traditional Raksha Bandhan attire and make a bold fashion statement with your sibling this year. Ditch the predictable kurtas and sarees for a fresh, contemporary look that reflects your unique bond. Designer Sarab Khanijou, and Khushboo Sethi, co-founder of Jisora, share tips to help you shine with your sibling. Whether you're aiming for a coordinated or complementary look, let your fashion choices elevate the spirit of Raksha Bandhan. Prepare to turn heads and create lasting memories as you and your sibling step out in style. Channelling key trends The design experts list 8 key fashion trends that you can adapt to elevate your Raksha Bandhan looks: Fusion wear: Blending traditional silhouettes with contemporary elements creates a stylish and modern look. Consider pairing kurta sets with modern tailoring or incorporating western cuts into ethnic wear. Rich fabrics and intricate embroidery: Elevate your Raksha Bandhan ensemble with luxurious fabrics like silk, brocade, or organza. Detailed embroidery adds a touch of opulence and festivity. Subtle embellishments: Opt for understated embellishments like sequins, beads, or delicate thread work to enhance your outfit without overpowering it. Layered looks: Create depth and dimension with layered outfits. Experiment with different combinations of tops, bottoms, and jackets to achieve a stylish and sophisticated look. Bold prints: Add a contemporary edge to your Raksha Bandhan attire by incorporating bold prints. Geometric patterns, floral motifs, or abstract designs can make a statement. Asymmetrical cuts: Embrace modern fashion trends by opting for asymmetrical cuts in your kurta, lehenga, or saree. This adds a unique and stylish touch. Co-ord sets: Coordinate your look with your sibling by wearing matching or complementary co-ord sets. This creates a stylish and cohesive ensemble. Sustainable fashion: Make a conscious choice by opting for sustainable fabrics and ethically produced clothing for your Raksha Bandhan outfits. Create a cohesive sibling look “Colours and prints play a crucial role in creating a cohesive sibling look. Opting for complementary or matching colours can unify the overall appearance while allowing individual styles to shine. Subtle prints or patterns that echo each other can create a harmonious look without being overly similar. For Rakshabandhan, earthy tones are an excellent choice that enhances the celebratory mood and ensures that the outfit feels connected,” recommends Khanijou. Sethi adds, “Colours and prints are the cornerstone of a stylish sibling ensemble. A harmonious palette can instantly elevate a look, while complementary prints create a visually appealing connection. For a cohesive yet dynamic look, consider coordinating colours but varying the intensity or tone. For instance, a deep-emerald emerald green kurta for the brother paired with a more pastel green lehenga for the sister makes for an urbane pair. Similarly, pairing a print motif—florals or geometrics worked in different scales or colours—adds a playfulness to the overall look.” Bollywood as style inspiration Bollywood has long been a trendsetter, influencing fashion choices across India. “For Raksha Bandhan, look to films like Dil Dhadakne Do and Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani for inspiration on blending traditional elegance with contemporary flair. If you're seeking a youthful and vibrant look, channel the fashion-forward characters of Student of the Year or Cocktail,” says Sethi. “Celebrities like Ranveer Singh and Alia Bhatt are the epitome of bold and daring fashion choices, offering a perfect blueprint for those who want to make a statement. However, remember that the most important aspect of Raksha Bandhan fashion is selecting styles that resonate with both siblings and reflect their personalities,” elaborates Sethi. Create your Raksha Bandhan-inspired outfits using existing wardrobe pieces While it's tempting to shop for new outfits, you can create stunning looks by repurposing pieces from your existing wardrobe. Embrace festive hues with a modern twist Inject traditional Raksha Bandhan colours like red, green, and yellow into your wardrobe. Balance these vibrant tones with neutral hues for a contemporary and sophisticated look. This approach allows you to maintain the festive spirit while ensuring your outfit remains modern and stylish. Elevate with shimmer and shine Add a touch of glamour to your festive attire with shimmering or sequin tops. Pair these with classic black or white bottoms and accessorise thoughtfully to complete the ensemble. This combination creates a striking and elegant look perfect for the occasion. Versatile kurta styling Explore fresh and stylish outfits by combining colorful kurtas with white palazzos or jeans. For a youthful and trendy vibe, experiment with printed skirts paired with solid crop tops. This versatility allows you to create a variety of looks while maintaining a comfortable and fashionable aesthetic. Mix and match with co-ord sets Add a playful and modern twist to your Raksha Bandhan look by mixing and matching tops from cotton co-ord sets with different coloured bottoms. This approach not only adds a touch of creativity but also maximises your wardrobe potential. Harmonise colour schemes Create a visually pleasing and coordinated look by selecting complementary or matching colours for both siblings. This creates a sense of unity and style. Unify with fabrics and patterns Establish a cohesive style by opting for similar fabrics or patterns. Balance embellished kurtas with simpler designs to create a harmonious contrast between the outfits. Accessorise in tandem Enhance your sibling's coordinated appearance by selecting matching or complementary accessories like footwear or dupattas. This adds a finishing touch to the overall look. Collaborative outfit planning Foster a sense of unity and excitement by discussing outfit choices with your sibling. This collaborative approach ensures a well-coordinated and intentional ensemble that both of you love. By following these tips, you and your sibling can create stylish and memorable Raksha Bandhan looks that reflect your unique personalities while celebrating the special bond you share. Also Read: Narali Purnima 2024: How Koli traditions deepen cultural connections to the sea
19 August,2024 10:57 AM IST | Mumbai | Maitrai AgarwalWhen one talks about khadi, the Indian fabric made from cotton, it immediately brings to mind Mahatma Gandhi and the freedom struggle. Gandhi coined this term for the handspun cloth, which signified self-reliance, more than 100 years ago in 1918. The Indian flag proposed a few years later by the leader also featured the charkha—the spinning wheel used to make khadi—before the symbol was replaced by the Ashoka Chakra at the time of Independence. It is no surprise then that by law the flag has to be made from khadi. Even with such a rich past, many khadi loyalists argue that the true essence of the word has been lost over the years. They say the label is being tossed around because of its new-found appeal in the fashion industry but many brands are using this as an opportunity to sell adulterated khadi. “Since khadi comes under the Khadi and Village Industries Commission, which is a part of the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME), people require a licence to sell it. The licence is easily obtainable if you have Rs 50,000. However, not all people who get the licence actually sell khadi products,” explains Savita Suri, heritage textile expert and president of the Women’s Indian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (WICCI) Maharashtra Handloom Council. “There are not enough checks and balances done by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) to see what is being sold in the name of khadi.” This is one of the many issues plaguing the khadi industry today. The term khadi was trademarked by the KVIC in 2014. However, those who love khadi for its true meaning and the freedom it represents aren’t happy with the fact that one has to buy a certificate to use the word, which has existed long before the agency was formed in 1956. The certificate means giving up independence while juggling with the difficulties of bureaucracy, when all one wants to do is create local Indian cloth. It is not only the introduction of the certificate but also the issue of people buying the certificate and selling inauthentic khadi, which has made the situation worse. The need to make khadi 'independent' againHowever, they aren’t giving up just yet. Some have been attempting to create an independent ecosystem, which exudes the original Gandhian purpose and principles of the cloth, and also trying to get it into the market. Sumanas Koulagi is among the few who still uses khadi production as a means to create a self-reliant society. He is a third-generation Gandhian from Karnataka, whose grandfather set up the Janapada Seva Trust (JST) in Melkote to take the idea forward. Khadi is one of their many initiatives and Koulagi has been trying to put theory into practice once he took over the reins two years ago, after completing his PhD in the concept of ‘Development as Swaraj (Self-rule)’. Koulagi observes, “Khadi was used by Gandhi as a medium to create a non-violent society to achieve Swaraj. But after Independence, the meaning of khadi took a turn and lost its spirit of Swaraj and just became a fabric.” Interestingly, many may think Koulagi’s passion for this subject comes because of his strong Gandhian influences. Surprisingly, it was his love for the environment, which led him to understand the true meaning of the Gandhian teaching, which he had so often heard in his house. Now, it is his quest to strive and achieve the concept of Swaraj in his village, through the making of khadi. “Swaraj and the production of khadi is a sustainable way of making cloth and, in the process, protecting the environment,” he adds. Koulagi’s Janapada Seva Trust is recognised by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) but it does not avail of the subsidy from the government ministry and that is why it tends to be more expensive. There are three reasons, he says, why they don’t opt for the subsidy. The fact that that creates a dependency on the state is one of the main reasons, as it goes against the concept of Swaraj, which indicates self-reliance. The financial support received from the ministry would further mean the loss of freedom in the decision-making process. Lastly, KVIC represents centralised control, which also goes against what khadi stands for, which is decentralised power. He recommends that the agency should ideally only work as a monitoring agency for quality-checking the khadi that is produced and sold. “Almost 90-95 per cent of the khadi in the market is fake because instead of being traditionally made with cotton, most of those being sold at the khadi bhandars are actually spun with polyester,” claims Koulagi, based on his observations in Karnataka while researching for his PhD. He is clear about the route he wants to take, and will not compromise on it. Khadi, for him, is beyond the making of cloth. The activity is a means for every person who is a part of the collective to be involved in its decision-making process at every step of the way. It is also the reason why the workers who make the khadi have equal ownership in the process, along with the coordinator and the JST equally shares the profit and loss achieved through the sale of khadi. Bengaluru-based designer Ravi Kiran, founder of the label Metaphor Racha, shares Koulagi’s sentiment on how khadi is being perceived today. He explains, “Spinning khadi is supposed to be done by villagers after they finish their field work or their day job as a leisurely activity. The meaning of making khadi now has changed. It is a labour-intensive process but today the market is driven by the consumer and not the production, which needs to change.” Kiran has been running his label, which includes creations made out of khadi sourced from Shirahatti among other places, for 12 years now. However, he has refused to buy the ‘khadi’ certification because he believes one should not have to pay to use the word, especially when such a certificate is beyond affordability for many. The refusal means he has had to remove the word from his label entirely. This may have affected sales but he is happy to have stood by the decision. How awareness, transparency can help meet demand Among the many Indian cities who purchase his creations online, the Bengaluru designer reveals that Mumbai has a big affinity to khadi as almost 35 per cent of his sales come from the island city. “At all the exhibitions I have been to in the city pre-pandemic, the people who visit me immediately know it is khadi. I am often left surprised and upon asking them, they tell me it is something they recognise as being worn by their parents or grandparents,” he adds. Still, the designer isn’t too happy with the lackadaisical attitude of the khadi bhandars all over the country. Many informed customers tell him that when they ask the representatives at the bhandars for specifics, they aren’t able to explain much. Their reluctance to understand the source of the khadi and take effort in its sale is directly linked to the lack of incentives, Kiran informs, as they aren’t paid much. The lack of proper knowledge among those selling isn’t the only problem for Kiran. Earlier this year, it was reported that the KVIC had experienced a highest-ever turnover of Rs 95,741.74 crore, which is a 7.71 per cent increase from Rs 88,887 crore in the financial year ended March 2020. In an interview to Financial Express, KVIC chairman Vinai Kumar Saxena said the increase in government orders, online sales and aggressive marketing had supported growth. Kiran and Suri both say that this turnover figure can be misinterpreted by many to be the sales of the khadi fabric itself. “The KVIC does not only include khadi, as there are many other village industries. So, only a part of the turnover actually represents the khadi sales,” Mumbai-based Suri points out. In fact, KVIC reported a drop in sales of khadi fabric to Rs 3,527.71 crore in the financial year ended March 2021 from Rs 4,211.26 crore the previous year, as production units and sales outlets were affected. Even though many issues still ail the industry, Suri has a suggestion for its growth. She cautions that since making the cloth is labour-intensive, it should not be made in bulk. Instead, entrepreneurs should opt to first secure the number of orders based on the demand before going ahead with production — a method she has practiced to help revive the East Indian lugra in Mumbai. Khadi is handwoven and depends not only on the weaver but also on the carpenter, who makes the charkha, and various other people in the village, who are a part of the supply chain and responsible for the final weave. This will not only help businesses sell all their khadi products but also help the artisans get paid in time and make the khadi successfully. Also Read: How two Mumbaikars are saving an East Indian sari from obscurity
15 August,2024 03:15 PM IST | Mumbai | Nascimento Pinto
Glittering diamonds sparkle the same – but there exist key differences between gems found naturally and those synthesised in labs. While mined natural gems are more than a billion years old – formed under extreme pressure and temperature; the rocks produced in a laboratory are relatively new and cost less than half the price of a mined diamond. Ex-board member of Bharat Diamond Bourse, Rajeev Kashikar informs, “Though trained jewellers can tell the difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds, there's nothing on the surface basis which one can distinguish between the two.” It’s this challenge of visual homogeneity between the two gems that has sparked a discourse in the diamond mining and jewellery-making industry. Man-made gems have begun to reshape the 89 billion dollars global diamond jewellery market, he adds. As lab-grown diamonds begin to replace traditional mining, countries with economies dependent on diamond mining might be affected in permanent ways. If not immediately, then in due course, man-made diamonds begin to consolidate into a large market. Mimicking jewels in labsIn the west Indian city of Surat where 90 percent of the world's diamonds are cut and polished, diamond merchants are adopting a new technology. In Smit Patel's gleaming lab, technicians drop crystal diamond ‘seed’ slices into reactors mimicking the extreme pressure far underground. "Once the customer sees it for herself, they are sold. I believe this is the future," said Patel, director of Greenlab Diamonds and the third generation of his family to deal in diamonds. Reactors in labs such as Patel's are pumped full of carbon-containing gases such as methane and the crystal grows under heat and pressure. Rough diamonds are then taken to another facility where hundreds of workers design, cut and polish the stones. From seed to ring-ready jewels, his team takes less than eight weeks to produce a diamond virtually indistinguishable from a mined gem. "It's the same product, it's the same chemical, the same optical properties," Patel said. Lab-grown diamond exports from India tripled in value between 2019 and 2022, while export volumes rose by 25 percent between April and October 2023, up from 15 percent in the same period a year earlier, according to the latest industry data published by Future Market Insights. "We've grown at 400 percent year on year in volume," Patel reveals. Real vs. machine made: Dilemma for Indian buyersConsidering the deep-rooted cultural habits of Indian consumers, how extensively will lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) penetrate the market? Ramesh Kalyanaraman, the executive director of Kalyan Jewellers shares that “In the case of lab-grown diamonds, we have yet to witness significant interest from consumers. Furthermore, fluctuating prices, both globally and nationally, contribute to the uncertainty regarding the future of lab-grown diamonds.” With a customer-centric approach, Kalyanraman has no immediate plans to introduce lab-grown diamonds as a product segment, until there is a clearer alignment between demand and supply. Thus, the consumer perception of machine-made diamonds also emerges as a crucial factor in deciding the fate of mined gems. While Richa Sinha recently went shopping and opted for a lab-grown emerald. In an interaction with Midday, she says, “The shopkeeper placed two stones on the table in front of us for a stone review. We were immediately drawn to the lab option for its brilliance. When we asked which was which, we were surprised at the lab option and even more surprised to hear the stone was about INR 1,00,757 while the near-identical natural beside it was INR 12,59,472. I went with the lab alternative, no contest.” Like any other industry, even the diamond segment has a distinct structure that drives demand. One such factor is the availability of alternatives for customers, while another is the presence of substitutes. Currently, LGDs fall into the category of alternatives to natural diamonds. It will take a considerable amount of time for synthetic gems to evolve into a true substitute for natural diamonds, outlines Kashikar. However, the global market share by value of lab-grown gems rocketed from 3.5 percent in 2018 to 18.5 percent in 2023, states New York-based industry analyst Paul Zimnisky. Thus, underscoring the rising consumer preference for lab-grown alternatives to real diamonds. Slump in demand for real diamondsIndian lab diamond makers exported 4.04 million carats between April and October 2023, a 42 percent year-on-year increase, according to India's Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). In contrast, natural diamond companies in India reported a more than 25 percent drop, to 11.3 million carats, over the same period. While natural diamond sales during the Covid-19 pandemic surged as affluent shoppers sought to brighten lockdowns with luxury purchases, demand dropped when economies reopened. Top companies were left holding expensive excess stock. Ajesh Mehta from D. Navinchandra Exports, whose group is one of global diamond giant De Beers Group's authorised buyers, or "sightholders", said it was the worst slump in his 30-year career. "This is a different kind of lack of demand," Mehta informs. "Everything came like a perfect storm." Factors other than competition from lab-grown rivals included slowing economic growth in the all-important US and China markets, as well as oversupply and sanctions against Russian rough-cut diamonds. India's natural diamond industry was forced into a rare voluntary import ban on rough diamonds in October. Impact of budgetEarlier in July, Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman, proposed a reduction in basic customs duty on gold and silver to 6 percent and platinum to 6.4 percent. The reduction in the basic customs duty on gold, silver and platinum was welcomed as it has been a long-pending demand of the gems and jewellery industry. Speaking of the impact this move shall have, Kalyanaraman highlights that “The recent reduction in custom duty has led to a substantial increase in customer inquiries and showroom walk-ins across the country. This clubbed with seasonal offers has played a critical role in further accelerating interest from millennial and Gen-Z consumers toward jewellery buying. Addressing this consumer demographic, jewellers are strategically aligning their offerings through deliberate expansion in our product portfolio to address changing preferences.” This could also include lab-grown gems however, he didn’t hint at it. Do LGDs promise any hope for the future?Machine-made diamonds were first developed in the early 1950s but it took technological leaps to create a commercially viable process less than a decade ago. Producers boast that their gems come at a lower carbon cost, although there are questions about whether the energy-intensive process is any better for the environment. Patel said his lab uses solar energy from the local grid, although others suck up electricity from carbon-heavy sources. And while mined gem sellers claim that conflict diamonds from war zones are kept off the market through the international Kimberley Process certification scheme, lab producers argue their facilities guarantee a clean record. Such environmental and humanitarian claims have helped make lab-grown stones a popular choice among consumers. Additionally, LGDs are generally considered better for the environment compared to mined diamonds. Their production involves less land disruption and reduces the risk of habitat destruction and water contamination associated with mining. Also, they have a smaller carbon footprint since they avoid the extensive energy use and greenhouse gas emissions of traditional mining operations, shares Kashikar. However, LGDs don’t enjoy a monopoly in the markets. The industry has had its problems, too. Supply has skyrocketed and prices have dropped drastically, with wholesale prices down by 58 percent in 2023 alone, according to industry analyst Edahn Golan. Retailers in Surat share that the price of a lower-quality one-carat polished stone had fallen by more than half of it original value. Additionally, WD Lab Grown Diamonds, the second-biggest US producer of man-made stones, filed for bankruptcy in October. But Patel argues that falling prices will spur demand. "We knew that prices would come down because there's no monopoly in this industry," he adds. (With inputs from AFP) Also read: Indian men rule the bling: Statement jewellery takes centre stage
13 August,2024 11:26 AM IST | Mumbai | Ainie RizviADVERTISEMENT
