When it comes to the rules of lingerie, there is just one that Soozie Jenkinson wants us to follow — absolutely anything you desire
Soozie Jenkinson
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It should come as no surprise that Soozie Jenkinson, lead lady who heads design for lingerie, swim and active at global apparel retailer Marks and Spencer’s (M&S), has an enviable personal wardrobe. The London-based designer has evening dresses from the 1920s and ‘30s as well as vintage underwear pieces that can be styled with these outfits. Describing herself as “a little bit lingerie obsessive”, her collection of black bras alone extends to well over a hundred. So, when we hear that Jenkinson, 48, will be in Mumbai this Wednesday as M&S celebrates 90 years since it first launched it’s lingerie line, we are all ears.
Jenkinson first flirted with lingerie in 1994 when she began freelancing for M&S. She had a fashion degree from Kingston University, London, and had been designing clothes since childhood, but lingerie was still new territory. “While I stepped into the world of lingerie and instantly fell in love with the product, it was a steep and fast learning curve,” she says. The “softer side” to lingerie — camisoles, slips, sleepwear — were easier than the “technically-complex” bra that demanded more work with “intimate aspects”. Surely, Jenkinson is being modest, for in 1998, she was made the head of lingerie design.
A corsolette from 1971
Looking back, Jenkinson says nothing can be more different about the world of lingerie, then and now. “Twenty years ago, it was just five colours — black, white, cream, navy and red. Fast forward to now, and the colour and fashionability is so different. Lingerie is now a dominant part of the woman’s wardrobe and an important consideration of her dress — as good as an accessory,” she explains. Now, bras come in 44 sizes, with cups going from A to G and with 26 components in the average bra.
Soozie Jenkinson says that the next bra revolution is with two opposed trends: Athleisure (above) and the “softer side” to lingerie meant for layering such as bralets (below).Pics/Marks & Spencer
Keeping up with the times and innovating designs means Jenkinson is continuously talking to women, right from customers to gal pals, and understanding what works and what doesn’t. Imagine: VPLs (Visible Panty Lines), tiresome strapless bras that refuse to stay where they are supposed to and nip shows — the very things some of us women debate and resolve over lunch and drinks. Jenkinson’s taxi rides from her office in Waterside House stir up lingerie conversations, as do dinners with friends. “Friends often talk to me about their intimate desires on lingerie and are even keen to show me their personal underwear,” she says. It was one such revelation by a friend, who owned a vintage bralet that she had preserved for the last 15 years that led Jenkinson to introduce bralets into the M&S collection. The concerns that most customers and friends have: a back as smooth as the front of the bra, larger cup sizes and briefs that don’t dig into the derriere.
For the lingerie specialist, it is also necessary to keep an eye on clothing and fashion trends and, well, evolution (the average cup size is now a 36C/D, a couple of sizes higher than what it was 20 years ago). “Since leggings are so fashionable now — today, for instance, I am wearing leggings and a lace blouse to work — the need for no-VPL knickers has increased,” says Jenkinson, adding that she cannot dream of getting into skinny non-stretch jeans ever again. “Women are going in for lingerie that is workable. Globally, there is a move towards more activity, so athleisure is here to stay. However, simultaneously, there is also the reverse trend, in which women are moving towards softer pieces, like bralets, and the re-emergence of the lingerie layering style. We want a bit more of lingerie to be seen on us.”
A utility bra from 1941
We can’t help but wonder what Jenkinson would think are the essentials for any lingerie wardrobe, considering her personal one is something to draw inspiration from. She advises that the right style is as important as the right shape – a balconette is more suitable for women with broader shoulders, plunge for narrower frames, and majority opt for three-quarters cups. “A multi-way bra with which you can play with the straps, a work-wear one and a celebratory bra are desirable in wardrobes,” she says, continuing, “Things have changed since the clichés of ‘lingerie essentials’. What’s ‘essential’ for one woman is different from another.”
Are Mumbai women, then, different from London’s? Don’t we all here, in our hot and humid city, shudder a little when we think of silk and lace underwear? Jenkinson says that while cotton fabric is a big selection keeping in mind Mumbai’s environment, the big difference lies in the choice of colours. “In India, brighter colours, such as magenta, are more popular and it is important to keep the pricing equitable,” she explains.
An advertisement for the 1970 Spring Summer collection showing corsolettes and bras
So, as M&S approaches 100 years with lingerie, what’s the next big bra revolution? A far cry from the bra-burning era, can lingerie be “liberating”? Isn’t shape-wear, which Jenkinson says has found more popularity with fewer seams and firm control, hiding the “real” us? “The joy of lingerie and dressing is that there are no rules. So, I would never say that every woman has to definitely have something. But, it is liberating to have a wide variety of options,” says Jenkinson. This was also one of the reasons why Jenkinson designed a line of post-surgery bras (we only wish it was available here in Mumbai), following a letter from a customer who was in search of bras after a mastectomy. “Every woman has a different type of surgery or reconstruction, so we had to work closely with women who had undergone surgery for these bras,” says Jenkinson.
SMD Qs answered
The all-women team at Sunday mid-day posed some of its greatest lingerie predicaments to Jenkinson. And here’s what she had to say:
Why is lingerie so expensive (with some items costing more than outerwear)?
If you think about a bra compared to a T-shirt, there is a vast difference in fabrics and construction. Some bras incorporate over 40 individual components and fabrics such as silk, elastic, cups, straps and lining. A bra is like tailoring for the bust.
Is a VPL actually a big deal? Should one just go for thongs instead?
Creating a smooth line under clothing is important to provide confidence. Thongs are one solution to avoiding VPL but look at solutions for a sleek line under clothing including Brazilian and Rio knicker shapes, firm control styles and high-waisted briefs.
Are fishnet and lace stockings a strict no for workplaces?
Hosiery is having a bit of a fashion moment this season with lots of high-end designers dressing their clothing with feminine looks such as lacy and fishnet designs. I call this lingerie for the legs!
I always have trouble with bras and sheer/white blouses. What should I be wearing then? Something safe or experiment?
It is no longer the rule that your bra has to be invisible under your outfit. A hint of lace under a blouse can look modern and with so many designers championing the lace ‘underlayer’ look on global catwalks. It’s perfectly acceptable to wear black, white or even colour under your blouse.
Is it tacky to wear body shapers? Won't I get judged by women (and men) if I do?
Shapewear has come a long way since Bridget Jones knickers, thanks to clever design and innovative technology, these frumpy knicker looks are well and truly over! Modern shapewear not only creates a slim and smooth silhouette but it also looks feminine and stylish to give you body confidence.
How often should we wash our bras? Is there such a thing as “over-washing”?
All our bras are designed to be machine washable, even our beautiful silk lingerie. How often you wash your bra is down to personal choice and how frequently you wear an individual item. You may choose to wash a sports bra after each workout but, less frequently for an everyday bra.
I love flaunting my bra strap now and then and even matching and contrasting it to what I wear. What do you think are the guidelines for some bra peek-a-boo?
Lingerie should be fun and with so much variety on offer you can experiment to find out what suits you and what you feel comfortable wearing. A hint of lace under a top can look very pretty as long as it is considered as part of your total outfit. There are a spectrum of colours from statement reds and pinks to delicate prints which can work with your outfit or provide a bold contrast — the choice is yours.
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