As the Lakme Fashion Week takes off from the runway today, to be held at the Grand Hyatt, Vakola, it promises all things bold and beautiful

Let's get the shoe on the road

As the Lakme Fashion Week takes off from the runway today, to be held at the Grand Hyatt, Vakola, it promises all things bold and beautiful

Try to sashay down the catwalk in it and chances are you could land flat your back in a fashion fall that would have the battery of photographers clicking away frenziedly. Actually, there is no danger of that since a seven-foot tall art installation in the shape of a stiletto would be quite, quite stationary all through the hurly-burly of the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) beginning today in the city.

The art installation which would be on display through the week, after it is unveiled on the first day, is crafted by an artist called Paul B. Paul B has used aluminum wire mesh and the giant stiletto weighs 60 kilos (which probably means it outweighs all those models on the ramp by a good 10 kilos at least) but hey, when do stilettos need to go on a diet?

Skyline
The 60-kg shoe stopper has futuristic as its essence, but the Ritu Kumar label, to be showcased at the week draws from 1930s vintage. Promising a modern tweak to old fashion, the Delhi designer's gift of the garb coalesces into a collection that exudes a sensory experience. Predominantly evening wear, there are constant references to a night sky (not the Mumbai skyline with its haze of pollution) but a mythical, clear sky where embroideries resemble twinkling stars.

FUSION: A Ritu Kumar creation

Ritu Kumar, who once set the fashion world in a flutter when she fumed about copycats copying her designs, brings a great calm to her collection in slinky knits and lightweight georgettes. There are also hand woven textiles. The evening collection calls for darker hues - so brace for a profusion of black and navy blue. Yet, piercing through that darkness like a sliver of sunshine through a cloudy sky are bright pieces and off-white garments.

Curves
Even as Indian and vintage seem to run through Ritu Kumar's collection like a common thread, designer Troy Costa does a gender bender. The menswear designer presents his first women's collection at LFW through his, 'Helen of Troy' (talk about puns) Collection. Troy, the designer, not Helen, is set to unleash evening gowns and cocktail drapes along with tailored suits and dresses, designed to take you from corporate meeting to cocktail evening.

Some colours like magenta, wine, aubergine and golden beige set the palette while fabrics like jersey and chiffon would, Troy says, "not imprison the body but reveal its curves."

History and mythology looks like the mood of the moment -- there is Jatin Varma drawing inspiration from the labyrinth, a word almost synonymous with Greek mythology. The legendary 'Daedalus' is famed to have conjured up the first ever maze for King Minos of Crete at Knossos. Greek mythology also records that a lady presided over the labyrinth.

Jatin's AW line weaves in mazes - clothes that can be structured and fluid in the form of drapes, dresses and gowns in varying hem lengths. The empire waistline dominates and colours like plum, black, green and pink dupion silk, silk satin and polymide lycra are part of Jatin's line. The designer promises stone embellishments with crystals, as well as soft fabric buttons.

Profound
Who says fashion weeks are flip, star-spangled soirees where the most important decision to be made is what to wear? Sometimes, things can get very, very serious where life and love is at stake. That is what happens when the heroine Chandrakala, an Indian lavani dancer, has to decide between those two L's. Entangled in a love triangle are the poet, 'Rafael', the courtesan Chandrakala and the club owner, Zidler! This story forms the motif of the new collection by designer, Swapnil Shinde.u00a0 Swapnil unleashes a world of unwanted villains, romantic fools and an enchanting Indian courtesan Chandrakala in a new avatar.

DANCER: A Swapnil Shinde creation

Swapnil says, "Inspiration is derived from the late 17th century and early 18th century Europe, teamed with the traditional lavni dancers of Maharashtra. Our heroine wears a vast amalgamation of flouncing skirts with embroidered 'ghoongroo', double breasted jackets either deconstructed or structured, draped sari-style dresses, glamorous evening gowns, pleated lavni pants and dramatic festive pieces."

Swapnil's creations are in silk chiffon, satin lycra, velvet, faux leather, custom designed printed silk chiffons, silks, tartan wools that have been delicately embroidered, with traditional Indian zardozi work, custom made shoes and boots. The colours are strong, complementing the theme from ivory to jet-black and lavender to blood red. You think, Chandrakala would settle for less? No sir, says the designer who promises high drama on the ramp.

Festive
As the year whirrs towards its end with festivals dotting the calendar, designer Pam Mehta comes in with her collection called Kisneel, comprising saris and lehengas to suits andu00a0 flowing gowns. Embellishments like Swarovski crystals, semi-precious stones, sequins and hand-made beads are part of the collection and fabrics are mostly georgettes, chiffons and net. With Arpan Vohra, sport is hot as a sporty element would be evident in her couture collection featured at the week. A burst of colours would clash with subtler embroideries and silhouettes, which would be a modern take on the conventional sari and blouse.u00a0 Water is the muse for his embroideries, colours are a mix of the vibrant with the subtle ufffd nudes, beiges, hot pinks and reds. Red? If you don't have a ticket to the hottest week in town, dahling, drop dead.

FESTIVE: From Pam Mehta's collection

ART AND SOLE:u00a0 LFW models with the shoe art installation

Celeb watch
Been there, seen that. Well-known names and faces rocking the party on Thursday night at Narendra Kumar's show, the lung-opener to the fashion week.

(From left) Ash Chandler, Arun Nayar and Sheetal Malhar

(Counter clockwise from left) Sangeeta Bijlani, Manasi Scott, Divya Palat
and Aditya Hitkariu00a0and Yash Birla

Sounds of Mumbai
The venue of Narendra Kumar's show shifted from the customary Grand Hyatt to swish night club Tote but the core idea of showcasing an unabridged fashion presentation stayed put.

"I thought it'd be nice to try something new," smiles Nari, who was in an ecstatic mood last evening. He had a reason. The fashion show paid a special tribute to the women of Mumbai, and also commemorating completion of a rewarding decade in the fashion industry.

Fashion bogie: Designer Narendra Kumar had a bevy of beauties for
company on this fashion journey. Pics/Santosh Nagwekar

Parting kiss: Nari kisses a model at the end of the show

Cutting chai: Nari served generous refills of hot pipping tea to guests
at the show

Titled Sounds of Mumbai, the show had a line-up that moved from loungewear to sports-driven club and cocktails options. The colour palette obeyed Nari's definition of loungewear as a byword for relaxed glamour, making the most of beige, cream and okra with subtle hints of lavender, marigold and coral. Never a big fan of in-your-face embellishments, Nari once again opted for tonal embroidery to add jazz to structured silhouettes, sometimes sliced with surprise of fluidity.

Club and cocktail varieties integrated bold sound-wave prints to literally depict the energetic ambience of city markets. Body-flattering gowns embraced the body in tones of delicate pastels, gleaming gold and biscuit.

With a collection dedicated to the resilient, confident and resolute drive and ambition of Mumbai's women, a few work-wear garments including office uniforms - shirts and trousers basking in clean lines with hand-details - brought finality to the theme.