What better time than the eve of Navroze to celebrate the culinary heritage of Mumbai's last surviving Irani cafes, that'll be honoured at Mid-Day's upcoming restaurant awards
Every city has spaces that have, over the years, become more than just restaurants. They're like little museums of unwritten history, archiving the city's journey through old chinaware, faded signboards and staff that has probably been around for as long as the establishment. Spaces that leave regulars despondent when they shutter, almost as if they have lost one of their own.
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Mumbai has its distinct culinary heritage, represented in part by corner-side cafés run by the Irani Zoroastrians and Muslims who made this city their home in the early 1900s. At this year's The Guide Restaurant Awards 2019 presented by mid-day, we celebrate the culinary contribution of this community by honouring 10 surviving cafés. Unique to Mumbai, these Irani cafés have fought inflation, the fast food invasion and a future generation that would rather pick a professional degree over manning a family establishment at low profits. Back in Iran, the Zoroastrians and Muslims, celebrate the onset of spring with the festival of Navroze (new day) on March 21. In Mumbai, it's a day typified by feasting around family.
Six of the 10 winners of this coveted award, discuss what Navroze means to them and the signature dishes to try at their cafes.
Byculla Restaurant and Bakery
Don't forget to try: Mutton pattice
"Since Navroze is a holiday, we keep the shop closed and enjoy ourselves at home. After offering prayers, we relish a feast of kheema and falooda," says Darius Ferzandi, owner. "At night, we have a glass of beer or a peg of whisky and then, off to sleep," he jokes. The best dish here is the mutton pattice (Rs 18).
At: Alexandra Terrace, Byculla Station, Byculla East.
Time: 8 am to 11 pm
Call: 23727375
Cafe Dela Paix
Gustad Dinshaw
Don't forget to try: Egg akuri
Gustad Dinshaw, owner of the 80-year-old café in Girgaum, tells us, "Navroze is the augment of spring and we worship fire, so it's mostly about getting together and offering prayers. We lay out the sofrah table each year and look forward to the rituals." The top selling dish at this café is the humble egg akuri (Rs 30).
At: 7, Shanker Seth Road, Avantikabai Gokhale Street, Opera House, Girgaum.
Time: 10 am to 10 pm
Call: 23824384
Cafe Colony
Don't forget to try: Mutton biryani
For Mirza Mohammed Nazariyan, owner Aga Nazariyan's son, Navroze is all about celebrating togetherness. "The festival is synonymous with happiness and a time for our family to come together," Mirza tells us, adding that while the mutton biryani (Rs 280) is a crowd pleaser, it's his personal favourite, too.
At: Road 1, Shrikanth Lodge, near Tilak Bridge, Hindu Colony, Dadar East.
Time: 6 am to 10.30 pm
Call: 24142321
Cafe Excelsior
Mutton cutlet gravy
Don't forget to try: Mutton cutlet
"A different animal or bird is associated with every new year. This year, it's white pig," explains Ardeshir Maskoori, owner of one of the most popular Irani cafés in the city, which completed a century last month. "It's very difficult for me to pick one favourite dish, but if I had to, I would suggest the mutton cutlet [Rs 300 dry; Rs 320 with gravy]," he says.
Ardeshir Maskoori
At: 23, AK Nayak Marg, opposite New Excelsior Cinema, Fort.
Time: 8 am to 11 pm
Call: 22074543
Ideal Corner
Don't forget to try: Salli boti
At this Fort eatery, Navroze beckons a special menu featuring all-time favourites like pulao dal, salli boti (Rs 180), and mutton dhansak (Rs 230). When asked what the festival means to the family, partner Parvez Patel says, "To drink and make merry."
At: 12 F/G, Hornby View, Gunbow Street, Fort.
Time: 12 pm to 10 pm
Call: 22621930
Koolar & Co
The sofrah at Irani's home last year
Don't forget to try: Irani delight
At Koolar & Co's owner Amir Koolar Irani's home, sofrah, the laying of the table with a mirror, fruits, nuts, alcohol and other goodies on Navroze, is a big affair. "My favourite festival here is Diwali, but Navroze takes us back to our roots," Irani shares, adding, "You must come and try the Irani delight [Rs 120]. It's a unique dish made with egg and honey."
Amir Koolar Irani
At: 541, Noor Mahal, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Road, Adenwada Road, Matunga East.
Time: 7 am to 11 pm
Call: 24125062
Caramel custard
Winning Irani cafes
*Kyani & Co: AT JSS Road, Marine Lines. Call: 61229437
*Cosmopolitan: AT 133, Raja Rammohan Roy Road. Call: 23826737
*Sassanian Boulangerie: AT Dhobi Talao, Marine Lines. Call: 22006198
*Cafe Military: AT Tamarind Lane, Fort. Call: 22654181
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