Indulge in shorba at these places in Mumbai

Representation Pic

Last month, when the temperatures dipped by a degree and Mumbai celebrated the onset of its two-day-long winter that brings with it a long lasting flu, chef-restauranteur Yajush Malik discussed the 36-year-old paya shorba recipe that has never been altered at the iconic Gallops, Mahalakshmi Racecourse.

"Lamb shanks are slow-cooked to extract all the gelatinous goodness from the bones and finished with desi ghee, ginger-garlic, and aromatics - nothing too heavy, just a classic heart warming soup that hits the spot," he explains. Topped with fried onions, and served with soft, buttered dinner rolls, it makes for a meal in itself.

In a different version, we tried the paya soup with mutton momo on The Bombay Canteen's winter menu two seasons ago. Recently, we saw paya served in puchkas on Trippy Goat's menu, and it got us thinking of all the tried-and-tested places in the city where the readers go for a fix of heartwarming goodness.

Paya goes places

Apart from its numerous health benefits, what filmmaker Abhinav R Bharti loves about paya soups is its flavour. "A good paya soup needs to be cooked well by following the proper process of slow-cooking trotters, simmered for an extended period in a mixture of aromatic spices," he adds. Around six months ago, when Bharti was down with the flu, a paya soup from Nanu Paya in Bandra healed him miraculously.

"I am told the recipe has been passed down through generations, and the collagen-rich goodness is also great for skin elasticity and fracture recovery. This one has the perfect balance of spicy kick and soothing warmth," says Bharti.

The Bandra outlet started last year, whereas the Nerul one has been around for over eight years. Most of all, he likes that they are hygienic and offer a range of flavours, including plain, red or white paya soup; regional ones including Sindh Punjab, Agri Koli and Kerala-style paya soups. There is also dill and pepper flavoured, burnt garlic, ginger-chilli and conti paya (with cheese). The paya ghotaala and paya misal pav are a hit too.

Nanu Paya
Isabella CHSL, Dr Ambedkar Road, Pali Hill, Bandra West; Safal Pride, Shop no.9, Sector 25, Nerul, Navi Mumbai

No frills attached

Located in a tiny lane in GTB Nagar, this 50-year-old neighbourhood favourite has large degs of simmering flavourful paya. "The price will make you happier," says photographer Pradeep Dhivar, who had to return the next day to savour their speciality.

"They run out of it pretty soon," he tells us of Sardar Paya House, established in 1974 by father-son duo Sardar Singh and Balwant Singh Arora, who has passed the reins to his two sons Parvinder and Rashmeet Singh.

"The owner's family came into this part of Mumbai as political refugees, and back in the day, a bowl of paya cost 20 paisa. For the first few years, they only served paya. Chicken and mutton dishes were added in the 1990s. My mother loved their white soup, seasoned with just salt. The masala one has a homely taste and is slightly spicier. No fancy ambience, and you might even have to share tables with others, but you do get great-tasting soup," he adds.

Sardar Paya House (Papu Payawala)
Shop UAC 20, near building no 01, Punjabi Camp, Sion Koliwada, Guru Teg Bahadur Nagar, Sion

Kya khoya? Sab paya

For cartoonist Abhijeet Kini, paya soup is not just any soup; it's the best solution to blocked noses and bad moods. "A good paya soup should be the right amount of spice - not too much, not too little - to bring out the flavours of the bone broth. It shouldn't overpower. I must see that it has a watery (runny) consistency and can't be too thick! And, of course, the trotters! Love the jelly-like texture of the meat on them," he adds.

He had his first paya at Rajasthan Hotel in Khar when he was in school, and has loved it since. "One day, when we were at the restaurant for an early dinner, I saw a man dipping some pav in it, and I drooled at the idea. That's when I tried the pav and paya combo here, and it's delicious! To me, the philosophy is, ‘Kya khoya? Kya paya?'

Rajasthan Hotel
Sikandar Mansion, Swami Vivekananda Road, near Traffic Police Chowki, Khar West

Went for the seekh, stayed for their paya

On the busy streets of Nagpada in Byculla, Sarvi Restaurant stands the test of time; Best known for their delicious seekh kebabs, paya here is luscious too. They start at 5 am and are open well past midnight. For filmmaker Zeeshan Khalil, who lives in Noor Baug, it's "all-weather comfort in a bowl. Sarvi's paya soup is rich, and the trotters are perfectly slimy like a warm hug on a chilly day - comforting, savoury, and downright delicious.

I find that the spice is not too overpowering, which can kill the soup's flavour. I first had it during college with friends, when pockets were light, and the quest for comforting yet affordable meals was real. We had gone to have the seekh kebab, which we had heard so much about, and ordered the soup too. Since then, Sarvi has been my go-to place for it. Every spoon sends you down memory lane.

Also, because the place is so unpretentious, you find people from all walks of life here, enjoying a taste of tradition served with nostalgia. Eavesdropping into people's conversation is my favourite pastime, and every time I get to witness someone animatedly reminisce about the good ol' days at the eatery. Besides, it has a star-studded past. For me, the paya soup is all about the people, the stories, and the genuine, unfiltered taste.

Sarvi Restaurant
184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station