Love Goan food? This new place in Malad's Orlem is filling katre pao with all things good

Posh steak

As a non-Goan, this writer has only ever heard and read about katre pao. Katre comes from the Konkani word for scissors ‘katro'. Essentially, the dough is shaped and given two cuts with scissors before being sent to the oven. What comes out is an aromatic, chewy staple that looks like a butterfly or a bow. The bread is crusty on the outside and soft and airy on the inside. And while most Goans will mop up gravies with a katre pao, one of them decided otherwise.

Russel Pinto opened Pinto Sando in Orlem village about 20 days ago. The little shop is easy to spot thanks to its neon sign. Its mostly white and brown interiors are simple, with classic cafe furniture. But we appreciate that the small space has managed to accommodate a toilet and a sink to wash and dry your hands. These are basic necessities, surely, but unfortunately, most new-age tiny cafés overlook them.

Katre Pao

We visited the 10-seater sandwich shop on a rainy Friday night, only to find ourselves in a queue. Seats were taken, youngsters were waiting for their takeaway orders, and a constant flow of delivery boys had us worried that the shop would run out soon. But we were in luck!

Out of the seven sandwiches on the menu, we tried four. Starting with a veggie one, the Arabic Crave (Rs 249) is a classic hummus, herbed butter, and grilled veggies sandwich. The creamy hummus made the sandwich seem deliciously buttery, and the seasoned veggies had a good bite. Nothing extraordinary about it, but we also had no complaints.

The 10-seater sandwich shop that serves Goan food can get busy on weekends. Pics/Satej Shinde

Next came the Posh (Rs 349) and the Chicken cafreal crunch (Rs 299), and we later found out via the shop's Instagram that both these sandwiches hold a special place on the menu. The Posh inspired Pinto to dream up a sandwich shop after he followed a Gordon Ramsay recipe for a steak sandwich. The recipe recommended using ciabatta bread, but lack of access to it, Pinto used the closest bread - katre pao. It could be because of the multiple trials this recipe must have undergone that the Posh is the hero of the cafe. Four slices of juicy tenderloin steak were sandwiched with caramelised onions and lettuce, and every bite made us want more. It was the kind of sandwich you would eat in silence.

Chicken cafreal crunch uses Pinto's mother's cafreal recipe. We are not biased about mom's cooking, but we have no complaints. Chunky pieces of chicken marinated in the sauce were grilled with a light char on the edges. It made for a smoky, spicy bite and reminded us of a well-performing tandoori chicken. It had some added crunch thanks to the potato salli, which didn't enhance the flavours noticeably. The katre soaked up the sauce well - and we understood why Goans love this bread with gravies - and turned out to be all the more flavourful.

After a slight confusion with our order, which we would pass off as teething issues of any new space, the last to come on the table was the Goan pork roast (Rs 299). It was a sandwich we were most excited about because we were sitting in a Goan-owned establishment. Sadly, we were disappointed with how dry the pork was. And as the sandwiches here don't use sauces and rely on the meats' juices, the bread, too, offered a dry bite. But we would be game to make another trip someday for it.

Pinto Sando also offers masala lemonade (Rs 99) and kokum sherbet (Rs 129) to wash things down. Both drinks were refreshing but did not stand out. However, having something to sip on amid all the meat is excellent.

This sandwich shop is a relief in a time when most cafés use sourdough or hokkaido bread and overfill the sandwich to a point where each bite is a sloppy mess. No sandwich felt too heavy, nor did it fall apart, and the lack of sauces would make any patron appreciate the bread. Speaking of which, each pao was airy, light, and chewy. Pinto Sando indeed scores full marks for them.

It was also heart-warming to see that the shop is a complete family-run eatery. Russel and his mom were busy cooking in the kitchen; his dad played server, and another family member took orders. They say it takes a village, and this family is doing precisely that in Malad's little village.

What: Pinto Sando
At: Shop No. 1, Germaine Apartments, Gautam Buddha Lane, Malad, Orlem, Lourdes Colony, Malad West.
Timings: 12 to 3 PM and 7 to 10 PM; Mondays 7 to 10 PM. Closed on Thursdays
Rating: Good

Pinto Sando did not know about our visit. Sunday mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals.