25 December,2022 01:36 PM IST | Mumbai | Jane Borges
Uttan resident Mogan Rodrigues and his wife Sheron seen making piti che unde, a recipe he learnt from his mother Agnes. Pics/Nimesh Dave
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Where: Uttan village, Dharavi Island
For a weekday afternoon, Uttan in Mira Bhayandar seems to be trapped in a languid lull. It's not necessarily sleepy, but neither is it pretending to keep pace with the chaos beyond Gorai creek. A short ferry ride from Borivli, the coastal village is nestled in Dharavi Island, one of the last remaining bastions of the Bombay East Indian Catholic community that is still rooted in the traditional way of life. The day we arrive, Christmas is barely a week away, but there are no signs of the festivities just yet.
At Kumbharwada, the erstwhile settlement of potters, it's business as usual. A few women are seen washing clothes at the bawdi. Some distance ahead, next to a memorial cross, a group of young boys engage in idle banter. Curious aunties peek out of their windows now and then, as we stroll through the bylanes, taking pictures.
A little ahead of the junction is Mogan Rodrigues' home. The local memory keeper of the island and long-time resident senses our surprise at not being able to spot a single Christmas star. "We are still in advent [the season of preparation for the birth of Christ]," he informs. "The decorations only come up a day or two before December 25." He, however, tells us that the rural folk like to keep the celebrations simple. Nothing over the top here, unlike their sister villages in Mazgaon or Bandra. Even the sweets aren't elaborate or colourful. "Our kuswaar [plate of sweets] used to be simple, and a reflection of our culture," he says. "In fact, my mum's generation made shankarpali, the dal [pronounced doll] sweet, and nevris stuffed with coconut and jaggery. We didn't bake cakes." And when a traditional cake was made, it wasn't of maida, but ingredients available during the season, such as cucumber or tadgola. "Now these are rarely made." He remembers his aunt in Bandra sending them a cake loaf, which was made of semolina, maida, and nutmeg.
The Portuguese arrived on the island in the 1600s - the island gets its name from the Dharavi Devi temple, located at the foot of the highest mountain on the island - with the Franciscans (a religious order) laying the foundation of the Church of Our Lady of The Sea in 1634. Today, Uttan has a Catholic population of nearly 18,000, comprising mostly fisherfolk or the kolis and agriculturists or kulbis/kunbis. Uttan's remote geography - the creek severing it from the city - has made it possible for the villagers to hold on to tradition, remaining largely untouched and uninfluenced by homogenising. "But that's changing," Rodrigues admits. Rich plum cake, marzipans, date rolls, and milk cream are now most favoured, but Rodrigues is trying to bring back the traditional piti che unde (rice ladoo) made simply with rice, coconut and jaggery. As a kid, he remembers the piti che unde sticking out like a sore thumb on the sweet platter, because they were massive in size against the miniature kulkuls. Rodrigues, who learnt to make it from his mother Agnes, now takes special orders during the festival season. His wife Sheron helps him knead the ingredients and shape them into tinier balls. "These look less intimidating," he jokes.
Christmas celebrations in Uttan kick-start with midnight mass at church. "Many locals prefer going for the early morning mass," says Rodrigues. The masses, we are told, begin as early as 4.45 am. Mornings are spent visiting neighbours and distributing sweets, followed by lunch with the family. The food spread includes vindaloo, sarapatel (known as sorpotel in the Goan community), chicken or mutton khuddi, and potato chops. The Uttan parish is divided into different zones, each holding a host of events through the day, from fashion shows to carol singing competitions. Post lunch, the zones organise a sports day on the beach. "It's a lot of fun. You have relay races, and other games, and people come there in large numbers," says Rodrigues.
A short distance from his home is the residence of Samuel Pereira, whose villa has become a landmark of sorts because of the elaborate decorations the 41-year-old puts up every year. It's been a tradition for the last 24 years, drawing people by the dozen. "After mass, people queue up to take photographs near my home," he laughs, "It's such a long queue that even my family has to join the line." Pereira takes three weeks off from work to begin preparations. When we arrive, the frame of the structure is already up. It has a very English vibe, with two windows and a door, built over a platform. On the opposite side, is the skeleton of a Christmas star. "This year, I am planning to recreate a candy store; it's dedicated to all the children in the neighbourhood, especially my two-year-old daughter," he says. "There will be Xmas-themed decor, with mason jars on the side, and garlands with fairly lights." The star will be a selfie booth, he tells us.
During the COVID-induced lockdown, when everyone was cooped up in their homes, Pereira, with some help from his friends, recreated a gorgeous room with a fireplace, sofa and the Christmas tree, and lanterns hanging from above. "Who wouldn't want to stay here?" we ask. "Since there's so much hype around the decorations, I have to try and outdo myself each year. People are always curious about what I will do next," says Pereira, adding with a smile, "It's taken
Bombay folks, like you, 20 years to notice."
Ingredients
600 gm unpolished rice
350 gm jaggery
One grated coconut
1 tsp cardamom powder
Method
Soak the rice overnight. Drain in the morning and dry roast it until golden brown. Grind it to make flour. Mix all the remaining ingredients together and pound it with a stone pestle until it starts coming together. Shape into ladoos.
Where: Dongri village, Dharavi Island
While Mumbai's Dongri has earned itself the notorious reputation of being the erstwhile hub of the city's mafia, its namesake in Dharavi Island, which is a 15-minute ride from Uttan, is peacefully oblivious to nefarious activities. The place gets its name because of its stone quarries, which according to Catholic priest and avid historian Fr Milton Gonsalves, supplied stones for the construction of the Bassein fort and the churches in Goa. The village itself is nestled on a hill, with winding lanes leading into old villas. This is a tinier cousin of Uttan, both in scale and size, with just about 3,000-odd Catholics, who belong to the parish of Our Lady of Bethlehem Church. Like in Uttan, even here, the Christmas vibe is yet to spring up, even though houses have already begun preparing sweets. Susan Correia, an elderly resident of Dongri, tells us in Marathi that "Natal [Christmas] used to be a humble affair. A day before Christmas, we would make nevris with coconut and jaggery. Most of us lived hand to mouth, and couldn't afford anything grand." For lunch, it was usually mutton che ambat (mutton curry) with rice. Even the masses were fewer, with a midnight service, and two more masses in the morning. "These days, we have two services," she says. Electricity came in very late into the neighbourhood, somewhere in the 1960s. When it did, the Christmas star was displayed in almost every home. With people travelling for work to the city, residents started adopting influences from other Catholic communities - the guava cheese, colourful kulkuls, and date rolls have now become favourites even in the Correia household.
Antrez Borges, another Dongri resident, lives a short distance from the village. One of the more popular East Indian home chefs, Borges has a catering business that serves folks across Dharavi Island and Mumbai. When we meet her in her large kitchen outside her bungalow, she is occupied with Christmas orders. It's a busy season for her, as she juggles sweet-making with wedding orders. She is joined by four helpers. Borges has laid out donuts, kulkuls and mava nevris for us - the latter being her specialty. "Nevris usually have a coconut or rava stuffing. I learnt to make the mava version around 25 years ago. It was an experiment, but it became a hit with everyone," she recalls. When we ask her for the recipe, she hesitates, not because she doesn't want to share, but because it's based on "andaaz" or rough estimates. "I don't have a standard recipe," she informs. We try one, hot off the pan, ladled in oil. It's crispy like a puff pastry, and the filling is just the right amount of sweet we can handle. We are not the biggest fans of nevris, but this one is delicious. The food, culture and festivities of the residents have great significance, for more reasons than one. All of this is now being threatened by the ever expanding metropolis.
"Dharavi Island has the last remaining concentration of East Indian Christians living a traditional lifestyle, in their villages. They constitute about 80 per cent of the population," says Dr Fleur D'Souza, former HOD of the History department and retired vice principal (Arts), St Xavier's College, who has researched about the island and its villages. "That's soon going to disappear once the bridge [over Gorai creek] comes up and greedy land sharks eye the last waterfront properties."
Ingredients
For the pastry
1 kg maida
200 gm ghee
Milk (as per requirement)
For the filling
1 kg mava
Semolina (as per requirement)
1 cup sugar
Almonds, cashews and raisins
1 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp poppy seeds
Method
Fry semolina separately, till it turns light brown. In another pan, fry mawa on medium heat. Add semolina, sugar, and other ingredients. Mix it well for a few minutes, and let it cool. For the pastry, knead maida, ghee and milk to form a dough.
Roll into small balls and use the rolling pin to make it into small thick rounds. Place a tablespoon of the stuffing over one half. Apply little water around the edges using your finger or a brush. Fold the other half over and press the edges together to seal. Cut off the edge with a cutter.
Where: Christian Village, Kurla
Walk into the Christian Village in Kurla and you are, at once, disconnected from the maddening junction that has the American School of Bombay, Phoenix Market City and Kohinoor City on its periphery. At 11.30 am, Gonsi Fernandes, who puts up a stall of East Indian and Maharashtrian snacks, is wrapping up. Her stock is almost over - just a sandwich and a few potato chops remain. We walk in deeper and smell fish curry simmering in homes on both sides of the narrow lanes. Some of these are characteristically colourful and surrounded by mango, gulmohar and jamun trees, reminiscent of the paddy fields that once existed here.
The Jesuits came to Kurla in 1573 and called it Corlem. Here, everyone knows everyone, and one wouldn't mind stopping for friendly chatter while making their way from or to the bazaar. Christmas festivities are on, the lights are up and every home has a sparkling star. "In the week leading to Christmas, in each zone, our youth and seniors come together to decorate the area," says Gleason Barretto, Global Ambassador, Mobai Gaothan Panchayat. "The ladies are busy preparing sweets and savoury snacks to be sent over to neighbours. Unlike other gaothans (a large area which includes residences, fields, mountains and river beds), here, there are cribs at almost every junction. Some of the crosses in the village date back to the 15th century. During Christmas, the atmosphere is festive and infectious."
Mobai Gaothan Panchayat Kurla sarpanch Florence Gomes and Old Kurla Gaothan cordinator Theresa Correia take us into this East Indian settlement that has around 10,000 residents with four gaothans - Old Kurla (commonly called Christian Village), Hall Village forms one arc of it; Naupada and Culbavor are near the Holy Cross Church. These are several hundred years old. Fields, mango and cashew orchards spread as far as Mohili, Saki Naka and Powai. The agars (salt pans) were towards Kirol village (now known as Vidyavihar).
We walk up to home chef Phiona D'silva's residence, going up on a narrow iron ladder. Her home smells everything festive with trays of freshly-made milk creams and marzipans stacked high. Piles of boxes are filled, packed and ready to go. We ask her for the recipe of a lesser-known East Indian dish and she shares with us her favourite thali sweet that is primarily a cake, made without any raising agents such as soda or baking powder.
Ingredients
100 gm semolina
3 egg whites
½ coconut, ground fine
20 gm cashew powder
100 gm white butter
150 gm powdered sugar
1/4 tsp essence of rose
Method
Beat egg whites to a stiff froth. Keep aside. Cream butter and sugar. Lightly mix egg whites to it. Then add the semolina and cashew powder, and keep overnight. In the morning, fold in the finely ground coconut and rose essence. Put the mixture in greased thalis and bake at 180C for 30 minutes.
Where: Big Village and Kolivery, Kalina
The old and the new, the big and the small get interwoven in Kalina, which was once called Kole Kalyan - the land of the foxes. Back in the day, fox hunting was a favourite pass time of the British soldiers posted at the Kalina Military Camp. From being that little hamlet surrounded by mango, guava, chickoo, sitaphal, papaya, jambul and palm trees - some of which still stand - and miles and miles of paddy fields, vegetable patches and orchards of coconut, Kalina is now a part of the concrete jungle. The Mithi river on whose banks it stands, was once the lifeline of the city, but is now reduced to a floating sewage and garbage dump.
One can only imagine how then, villagers would come on foot, in bullock carts and horse-driven carriages and congregate on the dry bed of the Kalina Talao, near the Our Lady of Egypt Church. Celebration of any kind meant nights of revelry, singing, dancing and merrymaking. Clinton D'silva, our guide shows us around the area, pointing at the grotto, crosses and beautifully decorated homes. For a moment, you forget that this is Mumbai.
Since 2014, ex-Municipal Councillor Brian Miranda has been bringing the people of Vakola from St Anthony's Church and those from Kalina's Our Lady of Egypt church to celebrate the Christmas carnival together. His wife, Advocate Tulip Miranda, is president of the Bombay East Indian Association 1887 and the Municipal Councillor of Vakola and Kalina. "There's carol singing," she says, "crib making, live performances of nativity, horse carriage rides, brass bands and singing - taking a slice from the yesteryears. There is participation from people of all castes and creeds, and one can see so much love all around."
There are around 500 families in the Big Village of Kalina, and about 250 to 300 homes in Kolivery. We first walk into the serpentine lanes to reach Julie and Raphael Cardoz's home in Kolivery and have a taste of their chicken khuddi curry made with the famous bottle masala. "It is usually made with red meat but since we are senior citizens, we prefer chicken these days due to health reasons," says Julie, who is a fifth-generation resident of the home.
At Smita Miranda's home in the Big Village, the Christmas tree is up. An old Santa doll she brought 14 years ago sits next to it and this year, she says she has tried her hand at a little DIY with the Christmas lights. She has tongue roast and guava cheese ready for us. "I'll start on the rest of the goodies soon," she says apologetically. "For generations, our families have been living here. We know no other way. Christmas is this for us - knowing we are surrounded by families who have lived with each other for centuries. The fervour on Christmas Eve is something else - it's a legacy our children will carry on."
Ingredients
2 buff tongues
4 tbsp ghee
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
2 tsp garam masala
6-8 Kashmiri chillies
Juice of two sour limes
A few cloves, cinnamon and pepper
Salt and pepper to taste.
Method
Boil the tongues and remove the skin. Cut them into slices. Put ghee in a pan, add ginger garlic paste, and whole garam masala and fry the tongues. Add salt, pepper and garam masala powder. Add the Kashmiri chillies and fry well. Cook till soft. Lastly, add sour lime juice. Serve with fried sliced potatoes.
Ingredients
1 kg chicken (or meat of your choice)
1 tbsp ginger/garlic paste and salt keep aside
3 medium onions
2 green chillies
2 medium tomatoes
A few sprigs of coriander
Grind to paste
1/4 coconut, dry roasted
8 to 10 cloves of garlic
2-inch ginger
A few spring mint leaves
A few curry leaves
Method
Chop onions, green chillies, tomatoes and coriander springs. Smash with your hand till the onion sweats out water. Add one tablespoon of oil to the pressure cooker, and the ground masala. Add two cubed potatoes and meat. Mix all well. Add salt and sugar to taste. Add water and pressure cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Khuddi is ready.
