23 February,2020 08:18 AM IST | Mumbai | Prutha Bhosle
Imaging/Uday Mohite
From avocado sushi to soya tandoori kheema, imitation meat is everywhere across Mumbai's restaurants. Popularly known as mock meat, it's typically made from jackfruit or soya. One would think that these dishes are to target carnivores-turned-herbivores. But, chefs tell us they have found loyal mock meat eaters in pure vegetarians.
The poached peking dumplings at Yauatcha have a filling of soy gluten mock meat, crunchy carrot and pak choi, with the black fungus and mushrooms giving it an earthy flavour. It is served with a peking sauce, and garnished with finely chopped fresh chilli, coriander and garlic. Abhishek Bindal, VP Operations, KA Hospitality for Yauatcha, says, "Mock meat is widely used in Cantonese cooking. It has textures and flavours similar to meat."
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The dough is simple and made of flour and water, filled with mince mock meat and finely chopped carrot, pak choy, straw mushroom and water chestnut. To give the filling some flavour, a dash of oyster sauce and dark soy is added. The mixture goes in before the dumpling is pleated, and steamed. Although it doesn't taste exactly like chicken, the texture comes close.
Abhishek Bindal. Pics/Ashish Raje
Where: Yauatcha, BKC
Price: Rs 470 plus taxes
The surge in veganism prodded Prashant Chaudhri to introduce this dish at his Asian eatery Chin Chin Chu last year. "The world of travel has never been so 'woke' as the millennials would say. Vegetarians holidaying in South East Asia eat mock meat as substitute.
Additionally, the practice of not eating or using animal products, that was once considered extreme, is now cool, especially among the young, urban guest," he says, adding that fitness conscious non-vegetarians, who are trying to cut down on fat and cholesterol, also consider this from the menu.
Chaudhri recommends pairing the dish with red wine. "Since the dish contains barbeque sauce, we suggest a glass of Shiraz or Malbec."
Where: Chin Chin Chu, Juhu and Lower Parel
Price: Rs 265
These soya bean-based mock meat sausages are grilled with garlic for vegans. The mock meat is marinated with bell pepper, broccoli, basil and parsley.
Chef Rakesh Mirchandani says, "We cut it in the centre, and skewer bell peppers, broccoli and a piece of sausage again." And it's on the plate in 10 minutes. The chef says, "Mocktails with a lemony flavour work best as the mock meat is served with tandoori mayo, making it a little spicy."
Where: Auber-gin, Breach Candy
Price: Rs 345
Prem Pradhan. Pic/Ashish Raje
From among the Thai recipes, this stir-fry made from soy gluten mock meat is one of the easiest to make. Prem Pradhan, head chef at BKC eatery Nara, says the dish has been on their menu since they opened in 2017. "Mock meat is common in Thailand, given that a large part of the population is Buddhist, who are also invariably vegetarian. It's similar to India, where a majority are vegetarian by choice or religion," Pradhan adds.
The spicy minced mock meat is sautéed in garlic with Thai basil and garnished with spicy and flavourful Thai red chilli. "We combine the meat, soy sauce, seasoning sauce and sugar in a bowl, using a fox knife to mash it together." Oil is smoked in a wok and then go in garlic, chillies, and crumbled mock meat, which are stir fried rapidly. It is served with a portion of white rice, and is interestingly, popular among non-vegetarians, too. "Given the similarity in taste and preparation, meat-eaters also go for it since it's a healthier option." Try it with a tall refreshing glass of lemongrass iced-tea.
Where: Nara, BKC
Price: Rs 550 plus taxes
Pic/Shadab Khan
JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu's executive chef Abhishek Basu says that a couple of mock dishes have been on their menu for a year. "We are seeing a growing number of guests request mock meat. Plant-based and soya-based protein is trending across the world. So, two months ago, we added the vegetarian fish slice to the menu."
The look and feel of the dish mirrors fish. "But it doesn't taste exactly like fish; it comes close." Just like fish is coated in flour, the soy protein slice is too. "We then deep fry it and toss it with ginger and spring onion. Since the ingredients are exactly what we use for making fish, you can hardly tell the difference. It's a hit."
Abhishek Basu
Where: Dashanzi, JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu
Price: Rs 775 (plus taxes)
Before kathal ki chapli, owner Pankaj Gupta was serving kathal ki seekh to patrons. A few months ago, when the menu underwent a revamp, he thought of introducing the Mughlai-influenced Pashtun-style chapli. "Chapli is usually cooked from beef, but we do it here with jackfruit. Chapli is also more delicate than seekh. Both have completely different flavours."
The jackfruit is boiled, added to fried brown onions, roasted and mixed with spices. Gupta says the dish is cooked entirely in ghee. Interestingly, kathal ki chapli tastes like a galouti kebab. "The texture is like a galouti, it looks and is made like the galouti, and even tastes like it." Gupta adds that the dish is popular among non-vegetarians on days when they abstain from meat.
Pankaj Gupta. Pic/Shadab Khan
Where: Taftoon, BKC
Price: Rs 429
Pics/Atul Kamble
Restaurateur Neville Vazifdar says he was apprehensive about introducing mock meat although he has been running Chinese restaurants successfully for 16 years. "A few years ago, I introduced mock meat and asked a few guests to give it a try.
But they wouldn't believe us; some even got upset. They thought we may have, if nothing else, added chicken stock to it." Vazifdar dropped the idea. When he launched Jia, he gave it another go.
Neville Vazifdar
"We have seen a shift; non-vegetarians turning vegetarian. Everybody is health conscious these days. While it's a trend gaining ground in India, at Jia, we have a niche clientele [for it]. Hardcore vegetarians are still put off by the idea of eating mock meat."
Where: Jia - The Oriental Kitchen, Colaba
Price: Rs 525
Impossible Foods, a Silicon Valley-based startup, first launched the Impossible meat-less beef burger and has now introduced the Impossible Pork, a plant-based substitute designed to mimic ground meat from pigs. This pork is gluten-free and designed for kosher and halal certification. An online article said it looks just like the real deal, "with its light pink hue when raw and tender, juicy texture after cooking". Coming up next, says the company, is his biggest challenge - plant-based bacon.
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