Gujarat to Rajasthan, via Amritsar

Rajasthani dal baati churma

Living in Mumbai, in a Maharashtrian family, this Rajasthani writer jumped in her seat the moment she heard about a new restaurant in Lower Parel that promised authentic Marwari food alongside Gujarati dishes. Roping in a Gujarati friend, we were quick to park ourselves in the almost hole-in-the-wall Green Gujarat. Beside us, their biggest table was occupied by a group of 10 Gujarati women who were playing tambola, gossiping, and even got into an argument.

The farsan platter (Rs 290) included Gujarati patra, which is similar to the Maharashtrian alu vadi - deep-fried and crispy. Giving it perfect company were fluffy, light dhoklas. The mildly sweet coconut pattice and deep-fried crispy pocket with a paneer-vegetable stuffing made it a variegated mix. Their aam panna (R90) comes with the goodness of chia seeds. We like.

Akshay patra unlimited thali features four sabzis, dal and rice, two snacks, two phulkas and two dessert options

For mains, we tried the dal baati churma (Rs 310) and our Gujarati friends opted for the Akshay patra thali (Rs 489). Two baatis, every bit of them covered in ghee, made this an indulgent lunch. They came with a bowl of mildly sweet churma, and chana dal that swerved away from the traditional version towards dal tadka. The tomato and garlic lehsun chutney was a stunner.

The unlimited thali, as the name suggested, was massive - bharela bhinda (bhindi masala), chawli-aane-bateta-nu-russawalu-shak (chawli and potato sabji), raasa-walu-bateta-nu-shaak (gravy potato sabji), a bowl of rice and dal each, and two phulkas. The sabjis tasted like what you'd be served in a Gujju friend's home; mildly spicy with a hint of sweet. The paper thin rotlis topped with ghee had us coming for seconds. The staff informed us that the ghee, and the paneer and shrikhand were all vegan. An extra point to them for that.

The farsan platter has two authentic Gujarati snacks, dhokla and patra, alongside a coconut pattice and paneer wrap of sorts. Pics/Sameer Markande

The motichoor laddu felt like it was store-bought; and the staff confirmed this. Disappointing desserts aside, for those who like ghar ka khana and don't get it in Mumbai, make a trip here. Or order their takeaway tiffin (for one to 10 persons; Rs 179-Rs 1,999). The service, though, can do with some sprucing up (we were served one chaat instead of two, and our bill included four additional dishes we hadn't ordered).

Aam panna

The menu also offers chaat, Punjabi fare such as chola-puri, and strangely, even Parsi dhansak dal. Perhaps sticking to authentic Gujarati-Marwari fare, minus feeling the pressure to pander to Mumbai's fixation with Punjabi eats, would serve them well.

What: Gujarati and Marwari food
At: Green Gujrat, Khimji Nagji Chawl no. 2, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel
WHEN: 11.30 AM-11.30 PM
CALL: 9653319324
Rating : OKAY

Green Gujarat didn't know we were there. Sunday mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals.