Biryani in the wild: Know all about wilderness dining

File pic

The forest is a sight to behold this time of year - breathtaking and vibrant. Lush vegetation stretches everywhere you turn, and rivers and lakes brim with flowing water, glistening in the seasonal light. The deep forest is so thick that tiger sightings become rare; unless the majestic creatures venture onto visible areas, or linger at water sources.

In India, wildlife tourism often morphs into tiger tourism, a hunt for glimpses of this awe-inspiring creature rather than a slow embrace of the forest's tranquillity. Safari schedules revolve around the quest for the apex predator, starting at dawn and rushing back for quick meals, with early nights ensuring an early start the next day. This one-animal-centric experience can overshadow the magic of the forest as a whole, where every chirping bird, rustling leaf, and winding trail has a story to tell.

The locals from the Yavatmal district are hired at Tipai, and they bring with them a wealth of knowledge on produce and traditional techniques like pata-varvanta and open-fire cooking, among others

Take Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary as an example: It's home to a dozen or more tigers and is considered a promising habitat for the big cat with its teak and bamboo vegetation, which supports a healthy prey base of deer, wild boar, and other animals. Spanning over 148 square kilometres, the sanctuary offers a raw and immersive jungle experience that is less commercialised than other reserves such as Tadoba, Kanha, Ranthambore, and Jim Corbett.

Despite its dense population of tigers (18 tigers, including five adult ones and some sub-adults who usually going in and out of the forest, says Naturalist Ishani Datta), its name doesn't appear in the list of prime tiger-spotting destinations. A trip might yield multiple sightings or none at all. Yet for those willing to let the forest reveal itself, the reward is experiencing nature's pace, as opposed to setting a rigid schedule to chase it.

Keyur Joshi, Founder, Wildlife Luxuries

"This approach is what I call Holidays 2.0," says Keyur Joshi, Founder, Wildlife Luxuries, a sustainable travel and hospitality venture that operates Tipai, a property with forest villas, pool residences and immersive dining experiences, adding, "Many of us treat holidays as missions - a to-do list to be accomplished. At Tipai, we offer a fresh perspective. The goal is to pause, forget the clock, and savour every moment. Guests may have an omelette at 2 pm or a pav bhaji at 2 am; meals aren't confined to specific times. It's indulgence redefined - immersing in nature without intrusion, respecting its beauty without taming it."

Joshi believes the hospitality industry leans so heavily toward standardisation that even customisation has become uniform. "We aim to change this by understanding guest's objective for the trip, specific meal times, dietary choices, or desired activities. The hospitality experience is tailored to each guest's unique rhythm."

Talaabwali captures the essence of Tipai's culinary philosophy, where co-founder Chef Amninder Sandhu showcases traditional Indian techniques with innovative flair

In mainstream resorts, despite the local setting, staff members can hail from distant cities, bringing a generic hospitality experience. Tipai thrives with the help of an 85 per cent local workforce. The architecture, too, is a nod to regionalism in style and materials used. The roofs and walls are in the Wardha technique, reinforcing a symbiotic connection between luxury and local support.

Snuggled in the Yavatmal district, known more for its agricultural challenges than its potential as a travel destination, Tipai was a labour of love for Joshi. "Building Tipai at Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary was a risky experiment - nobody had heard of this small little park in one of the poorest districts in the country," he says. "Yavatmal is known more for farmer suicides than wildlife. Fifteen years back, it was Maharashtra's red district due to the presence of Naxalites. I wondered if I could create a sought-after destination in a place like this. By extension, it could open up similar opportunities across the country," says Joshi.

Talaabwali

Joshi believes India's travel landscape is on the cusp of evolving, ready for the next level of luxury and distinct experiences. "Our economy now enables people to dream of a high-end weekend getaway, similar to what they might seek in Dubai or London. But rather than looking abroad, we can craft equally luxurious, unique experiences right here. With thoughtful development, we can redefine domestic travel for luxury seekers," he adds.

Central to Tipai's Experience is food. Chef Amninder Sandhu, Director and Founding Partner (Dining experiences), crafts each dish with indigenous spices, using traditional techniques and restaurants like Perch, Palaash and Wadi, mirror this commitment by showcasing seasonal harvests from Tipai's organic gardens. It is interesting to watch the kind and humble all-women' team, comprising of locals helming the show at Palaash. Trained personally by Sandhu, they have the ability to run the dinner service with a lot of panache.

Beyond the thrill of spotting a tiger, Tipai offers a retreat into calm space with local flavours

Among these culinary offerings, the newest entrant is Talaabwali. Beyond the typical luxe dining template, the lakeside venue offers something captivating.

Conceptualised by Ariane Thakore Ginwala, the restaurant's design balances sustainability with warmth, and has a deck overlooking a pond.

"One evening, a family visiting from Hyderabad enjoyed our raan biryani so much that they asked for the leftovers to be served for dinner," Sandhu laughs. This enthusiasm - and a social media post from another guest - sparked the idea of making each meal an event.

Talaabwali's menu boasts 19 varieties of kebabs - from mutton kakori and beetroot kebab with wild orange crema, to bhatti da chicken and jackfruit koftas; and a host of biryanis - each dish is an adventure in flavour. The biryanis are prepared in traditional handis, nestled in a basin of sand and topped with coals for a slow-cooking method that imparts a deep flavour impossible to achieve on a stove. Sandhu has also introduced vertical skewers inspired by the Assamese technique she saw in Majuli, by the Mishing tribe - thus the diversity of Indian cuisine is seen every dish.

The on-ground team is helmed by Executive Chef Tabrez Shaikh who has been trained methodically by Sandhu. Speaking of the menu, Sandhu shares, "Served on a large thaal to encourage sharing, guests can choose from 19 kababs, followed by biryani, served in its handi, along with salan and raita. Soon, we'll introduce short-grain rice biryanis including ambemohar for Maratha style and other southern-style biryanis including thalassery biryani with kyma rice, ambur style of biryani and donne, a pulao style biryani created by Maratha Mannaji Rao, to provide energy and nutrition to soldiers during wars." The desserts here, follow the viral trends and include theatrics.

At the bar, Tim Judge has crafted a menu of innovative cocktails using leftover ingredients from the kitchen. Like in this drink called Coffee, spent pucks is infused in gin for a delicious riff on a Negroni. In Pineapple, pineapple skins, rum, and coconut water come together for a delightful pina colada and in Orange, famed Nagpur orange skin infused aperol is mixed with orange juice.

Sandhu adds, "This is a golden age for Indian cuisine and hospitality. Indian restaurants are redefining boundaries with local ingredients and inventive cocktails - a shift we're proud to be part of at Tipai."

Talaabwali of Tipeshwar

Tigress T1, after whom the restaurant is named, is symbolic of the sanctuary's thriving cat population. Spotted often near water bodies, or talaabs, she attracts many visitors hoping to catch a glimpse. On safaris, the local guides regale you with stories that define her characteristics, making you eager to meet the fierce one of Tipeshwar.