An Indo-Italian love affair

Rahul Mishra, (right) Tod’s iconic DI Bag

Indian couturier Rahul Mishra's brief appearance at the Tod's store opening in Mumbai in April hinted at exciting developments to come. Fast forward to September, and he is deep in discussions with mid-day about a new collaboration with the Italian luxury group to launch a capsule collection of bags, shoes and accessories, available in stores just in time for the upcoming festivities.

The collaboration is part of the Italian brand's T-Factory project, a series of one-off collections with assorted creative partners, inspired by the concept of Andy Warhol's 1960s New York art studio. Previous collaborators have included British photographer Tim Walker, and the late designer Alber Elbaz.

The new range has been accessorised by Mishra's signature naturalist embroideries, which introduces a ceremonial gloss that contrasts with the luxury brand's traditional image of the "Italian touch" and the off-duty uniform favoured by the Lake Como elite. "A modern Japanese design can be appreciated internationally, so why can't modern Indian design achieve the same global recognition?" he reasons.

Rahul Mishra x Tod's T Timeless Gommino

Mishra describes his connection with Tod's as rooted in shared passion for artisan craftsmanship. Meeting Diego Della Valle, the brand's owner, in 2017 led to a visit to their Marche headquarters, where Mishra observed the meticulous technique and patience involved in crafting the Gommino loafers. It was love at first sight for him.

The classic driving loafers, with their big chunky platform and pebble outsole in buttery leather, became the canvas for Mishra's signature foliage motifs, intricately rendered in tonal silk zardozi thread work by artisans at his Delhi studio. "India has long served as a factory for global luxury brands seeking craftsmanship. With this collection, I aimed not only to showcase that it's made in India but also to highlight the exceptional skills of the karigars," adds Mishra.
The iconic Di bag, named after Princess Diana introduced in the '90s, features two distinct multi-coloured embroidered designs on matt gold leather: one adorned with crouching tigers and humming bees amid a lotus jungle, and the other with parrots perched on a tree branch. "This collaboration pays homage to the encounter of quality and Italian artisanal tradition and the essence of Indian craftsmanship: Tod's iconic accessories, hand embroidered by skilled artisans, who interpret timeless luxury with a contemporary language," shares Carlo Alberto Beretta, Tod's general manager.

Fashion becomes captivating when it tells a story. Since his Fall 2019 debut in international couture at Paris Fashion Week, Mishra has eschewed fleeting trends in favour of melding virtuosic Indian craftsmanship into contemporary wardrobe. "As a designer from India, it is crucial to remember that while trends can be tempting, it's easy to create something that feels international but detached from its heritage," explains Mishra. "The real challenge - and goal - is to craft designs that are globally relevant but still authentically Indian. This balance is important."