19 June,2011 10:45 AM IST | | Fiona Fernandez
Suleman Mithaiwala will rewrite the taste bud affiliations of the sweetmeat gourmand. From an unabashedly-calorific Anjeer Barfi to a baked Aflatoon and an assortment of seasonal mawa and halwa preparations, the goodies here suggest it's best to leave your calorimeter behind
Inshallah, we would like to set up shop in London," Irfan Mithaiwala, the third-generation owner of Suleman Mithaiwala smiled, encouraged by the overwhelming acceptance that his mithai has received in the UK.
We had just wound up our chat over a heady combination of Anjeer Barfi and Choco-Kaju Swiss Roll inside his 100 square foot, air-conditioned mezzanine floor office that sits above the iconic sweetmeat shop. "Now, if you would excuse me, I need to attend the evening namaaz. I'll be back in 15 minutes."
u00a0
The muezzin's call filled the chaotic air, as faithfuls from the bustling neighbourhood of Mohammed Ali Road made their way to Minara Masjid.
We had other plans.
Rahul, Irfan's Man Friday, took us on a saccharine-heavy trip around the rustic sweetmeat store from where the Mithaiwala family has been doling out delights since 1936. The buzz outside the busy junction was reflected within as hordes of Saturday sweet shoppers wiped clean tray after tray.
The king of sweet times
An hour earlier, on this rain-soaked June evening, we got a whiff of this legacy as we waited to meet Mithaiwala. Two platefuls of the choicest Indian sweets that were offered to us ensured we broke every past vow of sugary abstinence.
He guided us up a precarious staircase to his matchbox-like office in the adjacent block. Settling behind a glass-topped table, he let us in on the family story. "My grandfather Suleman Mithaiwala came to Bhindi Bazar from Talegaon, near Pune, to set up the business. He began with our in-house specialty, the Aflatoon, and mawa sweets. Later, when my father Abdul Latif and his brothers took over, the store's popularity grew."
Mithaiwala calls for a staffer to bring up another round of his best mithai. "First, you taste it, then we'll talk."
Two hundred calories and counting.
"My grandfather emphasised quality and customer satisfaction. We've stuck to both. Our cooks come from Uttar Pradesh, and ensure the the traditional sweet-making methods are retained. Our sales staff is taught to be polite with customers. After all, the customer is always right," Mithaiwala continues, interrupted by phone calls that are politely discontinued.
Their dry fruits are sourced from Null Bazaar, and the sweets are prepared in a factory space at Mumbai Central, delivered fresh every morning at 7.30, when the shutters roll up."
Mithaiwala takes us through an exhaustive, plastic-laminated menu ufffd "Pineapple and Apple Barfis will soon be on sale... what you see here are 'monsoon picks'. The Kaju-Choco Swiss Roll and Aflatoon do well throughout the year. The seasonal Strawberry Milk Sweets, Mango Milk Sweets, Anjir Milk Sweets, Kaju, Blue Currant, Litchi and halwa varieties as well as nankhatais are the other A-listers."
Saccharine success
In 1999, the Mithaiwalas set up a website, and they claim to be the first in the area to accept payment via credit cards. "When we went online, our products were able to reach customers in West Africa, the US and the UK."
It was this online presence that lead to Suleman Mithaiwala being awarded the BID QC100 Quality Crown (London) for outstanding commitment to quality and excellence in 2006. Mithaiwala was invited to London to receive the award.
But the family wasn't willing to rest on these laurels. Two sister establishments were established ufffd Bon Appetit (1998), that retails cakes and farsan, and Delicatessen (2004) for fast food and juices. Both are a stone's throw away.
The Mithaiwalas are aware of changing health concerns. "We also offer diet-friendly preparations made without sugar or ghee, and low-fat cakes and desserts. Would you like to try those instead?"
It was too late. The five hundred-calorie mark was crossed an hour ago.
At: 41F/G Mohammad Ali Road; 268/270, Belassis Road, Bombay Central. CALL 66366606 / 23001111. Log on to www.sulemanmithaiwala.com. Open from 7.30 am to 12.30 am, all 7 days.
