Kunwar Kulsum Begum is in the city to promote the pehelion ka khana a royal trick-treats at Sheraton hotel's Baywatch restaurant
We aren't referring to some South Indian masala flick, but a spicy platteru00a0straight from the kitchens of the Nawabs of Hyderabad
"Four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pieWhen the pie was opened the birds began to sing
u00a0
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Nani used to
say that a
good chef had
to experiment and arrive at his or her own measurements
- Kunwar Kulsum Begum |
Oh wasn't that a dainty dish to set before the king?"u00a0
If you thought this was some lunatic chef's attempt at poetry, think again. In Hyderabad's royal family, wedding feasts included a menu of trick dishes and the most spectacular among them was a biryani with live pigeons 'cooked' in it. During the feast, the mound of fragrant biryani would be presented to the guests and the senior-most person would dig into it. Then the pigeons would flutter and fly out, as guests would break into loud appreciations or go speechless with wonder.
While these royal trick-treats may have become legends today, some delicacies from the magical kitchen are being served by Kunwar Kulsum Begum, who was wedded into the family of Nawab Salar Jung III, the erstwhile king of Hyderabad. Currently in the city to promote the "nazakat of her gharana" at Sheraton hotel's Baywatch restaurant, the Begum talks of her rich heritage and culinary traditions.
"These were called pehelion ka khana or trick food. And no royal wedding would be complete without a menu of these. During an aunt's wedding, guests were served puris stuffed with little birds. Though I do not prepare these elaborate dishes any more, a favourite recipe is the sweet egg served as dessert," begins the royal lady.
Hush hush affairThe Salar Jung culinary traditions, the Begum says, weren't just about food. They were a way of lifeu00a0a life that involves maintaining three kitchens in one household, an army of chefs as honoured and appreciated as the one with arms and secret recipes kept under lock and key. So heavy was the blanket of secrecy that even daughters were not let in, lest they pass them to their in-laws after marriage.
"Thankfully, I was trained by my nani (maternal grandmother) because I had been married into the same family as my mother." Even then, her nani would only reveal the ingredients, never the exact quantities in which they had to be used. "Nani used to say that a good chef had to experiment and arrive at his or her own measurements," chuckles the Begum, laying out the feast of the most aromatic haleem, biryani, khulfa ka gosht and lauki ki subji among many other delicacies from the cuisine that has amalgamated influences from Persia, Kashmir and even the famous kitchen of Rampur.
Chammach chompsAnother favourite, the Begum confesses with a mischievous grin is edible plates and spoons. "I have often served food on edible plates and seen guests take dainty bites after much persuasion and appreciate every cutlery bite. I have also watched when at a later feast, guests would tentatively take a bite of real cutlery only to be left disappointed and with aching teeth," she reveals.
The princess who was born to another royal family with rich culinary traditions, the nawabs of Lucknow, says the overpowering taste of "kewda (floral essence) in all dishes" turned her away. She is, however, all gung ho about the Hyderabdi biryani. "Only Hyderabadi version is the real biryani made with raw mutton. They do not fry the mutton the way it is done in other cuisines. The use of spices in moderation is another specialty of Hyderabadi cuisine. And this is what attracted me to learn its nuances," concludes the Begum.
Buffet musts
Pathar ke kebab, Murgh ka qorma, Kaleji ka qorma, Machhli ka salan and Mahi qaliyan.
Vegans can feast on Bhaghrey baingan: Arbi kali mirch and Mirch-ka-salan among others.
When: On till March 15
Where: Baywatch, Sheraton hotel
Rates: Rs 1,550 per person (excluding taxes)
