Begum Akhtar's Bhima connection

Fish ponds, fantasy, folklore and music account for the beauty of Bhimtal, a virgin little land waiting to be explored by holidayers who crave calm

Fish ponds, fantasy, folklore and music account for the beauty of Bhimtal, a virgin little land waiting to be explored by holidayers who crave calm

Was sailing in a gorgeous gondola and now I'm going back in the land of Coca-Cola.' No offence to Bob Dylan, but after a trip to the serene waters of Bhimtal, bumblebees and woodpeckers are sure to hammer such lyrics into your skull.

About 22 km from Nainital, Bhimtal is an unruffled settlement in the state of Uttarakhand. Legend has it that Bhima, the mace-wielding Pandava of the Mahabharata, struck the land with his mace during his banishment and thus created the Bhimtal Lake. Today, unlike its more popular cousin Nainital that teems with tourists in monkey-caps and mufflers on a photo-frenzy during peak season, Bhimtal is an apt place for those who want to experience tranquility and enjoy fishing, nature walks and star-gazing.

Tourists dress up in Kumaoni costumes

Lake Placid
After an eight-hour train journey on the Ranikhet Express, we arrived at Kathgodam station early in the morning. From the station, it is a half-hour cab drive to Fishermen's Lodge -- a delightful pink and pastel stone building that would house us for the rest of the trip. A white deck strewn with pink-cushioned chairs, potted azaleas and lanterns with a terrific view of the lake greeted us.

Bunty, a remarkable host and an amateur singer, poet, wine connoisseur and philosopher all rolled into one, runs this more or less European bed-and-breakfast place. During his trips to Ireland, the man stayed at some homely and hospitable places and, soon enough, was inspired to set up this 12-room lake-facing lodge.

Birds and butterflies populate Bhimtal

Breakfast gossip
The food is a wholesome experience of Kumaoni and Continental dishes. We had a sumptuous breakfast of sausages, fried tomatoes, potatoes and baked beans in the dining area. The lodge doesn't encourage room service, since the idea is to break bread in pleasant company. So, when dining, one has to carry not only a big appetite but also an enthusiasm for small talk. Conversations with the guests centred around a variety of topics, and by the time everybody polished off their masala eggs, I knew all the secrets about a certain Bollywood megastar's liaisons during his heydays.

Bhimtal Lake is as picturesque as more popular cousin Nainital

Chasing butterflies
We broke off for a walk. The photographer had a field day capturing butterflies. Watching a grown-up man chase butterflies made me chuckle. As Picasso once said: 'Youth has no age.'

The urge to chase butterflies comes over

By lunchtime, we were back at the lodge. An appetising continental spread awaited us. The broccoli, celery and oregano we saw the gardener tenderly water in the morning was being served for lunch. I couldn't find a better example of what city eateries call 'fresh garden salad'. Chef Mukesh Upadhyay whipped up a delectable combination of Saut ed Vegetables, Olio Penne Pasta and Thyme Honey Mustard Chicken to go along.

Costume drama
The next trip on our itinerary was Naukuchia Tal, a tiny lake 6 km away from the lodge. The lake had its usual attractions -- tourists dressing up in Kumaoni costumes and posing for the camera, children yelping and haggling with parents for boat rides, and newly-married grooms oozing with bravado showing off their equestrian skills on puny ponies.

Boating at Naukuchia Tal

The sour note, though, was struck by unsightly gutkha packets that littered the surroundings. Bizarrely, the rubbish was of only one particular brand -- and we wondered if it was possible that some aggressive tobacco company chose to forcefeed all the tourists visiting this otherwise unsoiled place. A definite possibility in this competitive era. We couldn't help but ask, 'Why is it that we pack every possible useless item in our holiday bags but conveniently leave our civic sense behind?"

Bhimaswara Mahadev Mandir, 6 km from the lodge

While Naukuchia Tal was a bit of a disappointment, the trip next day to Saat Tal, 6 km away from the Fishermen's Lodge, was a pleasant surprise. The lake remains totally untouched by loud holidaymakers and is the best place to go fishing. With a young guest to keep us company, we cast our lines and anglers to start psychological warfare with the mahasirs, rahus and silver carps.

The evenings spent at Bhimtal ended with Bunty taking centrestage. Whether at his cottage at Jungalia Gaon or back at the lodge, the evenings were dedicated to masters like 17th century poet Goya, Farida Khannum and Begum Akhtar. When he is not playing his own collection, the man can croon till the wee hours until an enchanting sunrise breaks the spell.

The weekend was like visiting an old friend, reminding us of the numerous summer vacations when returned home from boarding school.

Who's luring whom? A young angler at Saat Tal

Come Monday, it was back to Delhi. I could sing any song in my head, but deep down, I knew a true traveller never loathes his own country. My city, with its hustle-bustle and heat, embraced me like a lover who had never left.

Go where legend and lakes beckon
Train: The Ranikhet Express goes from Delhi to Kathgodam. It's a half-hour drive to Bhimtal from there.
Road: A 300 km drive from Delhi.
Air: The nearest airport is located at Pantnagar, 71 km from Nainital.
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DIGRESS:
>>Bhimeshwara Mahadev Temple This 17th century temple is a 10-minute walk from Fishermen's Lodge. It's a good place to listen to folklore from locals who visit for worship.u00a0
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>>Saat Tal An untouched lake ideal for anglers, 6 km from Bhimtal. Carry Ernest Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea, cast your line and spend a lazy afternoon trying to trick the fish into catching your bait.u00a0u00a0
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>>Jungalia Gaon lies 12 km from Bhimtal. You can cycle back to Bhimtal from here, but keep your fingers on the brakes. Rash motorists show up once in a while. We suggest you carry a picnic basket and sip on wine till the stars start to twinkle.u00a0
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>>Naukuchia Taal Hop on a boat and ask your boatman to take you to the middle of the lake. Watch the ducks, ignore the tourists, and don't be shy to rap anyone who litters, on their knuckles.
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STAY:
Fishermen's Lodge, Mandir Marg is a small but delightful boutique hotel on Bhimtal Lake.

For reservations
Mobile: +91 (0) 9910162244u00a0 Land line: +91 (0)1141328410 Fax: +91 (0)11413284103

Bhimtal factfile
Besides being a winter stopover for trans-Himalayan birds, Bhimtal Lake is also larger than the more tourist-heavy Naini Lake. Situated at an altitude of 1370 metres, Bhimtal came under British rule after the Anglo-Nepalese war of 1814 when Nainital was declared the summer capital.