Mumbai's local trains: A colourful mosaic of eunuchs and vendors

28 October,2023 11:30 AM IST |  Mumbai  |  Sanjana Deshpande

City of Dreams—this is the moniker that Mumbai achieved years ago and it has since become synonymous with the city

Ladies compartment of Mumbai local train (Pic/Sanjana Despande)


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City of Dreams - this is the moniker that Mumbai achieved years ago and it has since become synonymous with the city. The iconic local trains are often referred to as the lifeline of the city and not just a means of transportation. The local trains, colloquially known as ‘locals' carry the hopes and dreams of millions relying on them for daily commutes.

Mumbai is a sprawling metropolis with a population of over 20 million, and local trains serve as the connective tissue that binds this densely populated city. For many, it is not merely a journey from the start to their destination; it is a shared experience of hustle, bustle, and camaraderie.

Persons from diverse backgrounds, ethnicities and socio-economic strata come together during their commute, creating a unique tapestry of humanity. Be it students, office-goers, vendors and families - all sharing the space forge a sense of community amid the chaos.

Amid the hustle and bustle, a blend of vendors and eunuchs have become an integral part of the local trains experience.

Eunuchs, often called "hijras" in India, have long been a visible presence on Mumbai's local trains. They are a distinct community with a rich history, traditionally known for offering blessings and performing at auspicious occasions. However, many, due to the prejudice and lack of opportunities, still resort to their traditional means of earning such as offering blessings and collecting alms.

The same local trains also offer a thriving marketplace on wheels where vendors sell a wide array of products. From books, snacks, magazines to accessories, these vendors cater to diverse needs of commuters.

Much like commuters, the eunuchs also harbour their dreams and mid-day.com spoke to some of them about their journeys, their aspirations and what a day in their lives look like.

Rashmi, who moved to the city eight years ago, has been begging on the local trains since then. She came to Mumbai after running away from home in Kolkata and has since then embraced the city.

When asked if she ever went back home, she said, "I did go back home after nearly a year and a half since my arrival in Mumbai. My family did get upset with me for running away."

She added that she was pursuing her degree at the time, but was struggling and thus she ran away.

Rashmi, when asked about what her day looks like, said she and her group often arrive at the station at varying times. Some days they begin as early as 6 am and keep travelling until nightfall seeking alms from commuters.

"On good days, we make good money to help us sustain in the city. However, there have been instances where people have been rude, condescending, or disrespectful to us," she elaborated.

Sundari, another eunuch who begs on the trains, says that people hurl obscenities at them which are quite hurtful.

Sundari is from West Bengal's Malda and has been in the city for over a decade. "I was very young when I arrived in the city. I have been begging on trains for at least five years," she said adding, "I struggled finding accommodation, people are hesitant to rent us homes saying we cause nuisance."

Upon being asked if given a chance, will she do any other work, Sundari elaborated that she comes from a low-income & lower caste family and is not well educated. "What work will I get when I have not learnt or have skills," she questions and further said, "but the present life is not as bad. I have made peace with it."

Concurrently, Rashmi says if given a chance, she would want to work in a security services company.

Elucidating further on the topic if they ever had to face trouble with law enforcement personnel, they said that they have only suffered minor hiccups and nothing major.

Vendors on the local train

Similarly, the vendors too carry their own stories with them on their journeys. Asha Chikila, a Bhayander resident, has been vending on the local rain since 1987. Asha, who is in her 50s now, says that she has been working since she was 10-years old and has been part of the evolution of local trains as a vendor.

"I was 10 when I first began vending; I began by selling the nylon baskets and as time progressed, I started selling other items including make-up. I still remember I used to buy Lakme products at Rs 10 and then sell it for a slightly higher rate. Today I sell clothes and other items and I go in every train and even set up a stall outside Churchgate station east-side exit," she quipped.

Asha, who is often referred to as Lovely by her regular commuters, said she supported her family financially through the money she made from vending. However, she lamented that with the advent of online shopping fad, the sales have marginally dropped. "There are still many customers who buy from me," she added.

She said that although she does not have a fixed timing of when she begins work, she makes it a point to head back home by 3 pm.

Subsequently, she noted that she is not educated but invested her earnings in educating her four children. "Although they are at good posts and have good jobs, I refuse to sit idle at home. I don't have any retirement plans, I hope to keep doing this work for ages," she added.

Asha, who has been vending in local trains for over four decades, recounted a memorable incident. "The first ladies special train that departed from Bhayander in 1991, I was felicitated by the daily commuters who had become my friends. They clicked my photo and also featured me in media reports," she recalled.

While speaking about her encounter with law enforcement agencies, she said she does have some cases against her. She said, "The officials have written me up, and filed cases against me but sometimes they let me go after collecting a fine and issuing a warning."

Concurrently, another vendor, who was selling her goodies on a Titwala-bound train, said that she has been vending for 18 years and that her children who are currently in college were educated with her earnings made from vending.

"I work every day, there is no off day or leave for festivities. Even if I am sick, I have to show up to sell my goodies," said the vendor.

Although it is known that one will spot a eunuch or a vendor on the local train, it is pertinent to note that it is not authorised.

Railway officials address key concerns

Dr Shivraj Manaspure, Chief Public Relations Officer for Central Railway, stated that begging or vending on local trains is not authorised. He said that the CR keeps conducting drives at regular intervals to ensure the rules are followed through.

He said, "Central Railway officials, personnel from Railway Protection Force and Government Railway Police conduct searches on regular intervals. If they spot a eunuch or a vendor engaging in the prohibited activities, they are prosecuted accordingly."

Responding to a question on the safety of local train operations and the passengers, Dr Manaspure observed, "There is no impact of the activities on train operations or security of a passenger is not compromised. Safety is of paramount concern; we have CCTV cameras, etc."

Elucidating about the same, he said that the members of the trans community could join the workforce by either appearing for examination or the contractors hiring them. He said the community's rehabilitation is still looked after by the Maharashtra government.

We are yet to hear from the Western Railway as no response was received until the story was published.

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