A hushed Holi at Mumbai’s Koli villages

Holi celebrations at Worli’s Koli village in 2020. The women bring pots of water and bathe the tree

At Mumbai's Koliwadas, it's the time of the year when the city's oldest inhabitants come together to celebrate Holi. The festival commemorates the victory of good over evil and, at Worli's sea-facing enclave, it is marked by freestyle dancing, blaring music and elaborate feasts. According to Prahlad Worlikar, secretary of the Worli Koliwada Owners Welfare Cooperative Society, the turnout was over a lakh last year. "It's so crowded that there's no place to stand. People especially come here to tuck into crispy fried fish made in Koli style. The festivities might happen at Koliwadas, but everybody is welcome to join. People from across the city partake in the celebrations."

A handful of members lighting a small pyre before the state banned all Holi celebations. Pic/Atul Kamble

That may not be the case this year as COVID-19 restrictions have created a dent in pretty much all community celebrations. The second surge in cases has prompted multiple states to return to some form of restrictions on public gatherings. The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) has announced that Holi celebrations, on March 28 and 29, will not be permitted in both private or public places. Action will be taken against violators under the Epidemic Diseases Act of 1897 and Disaster Management Act, 2005. Worlikar, along with other organisers, recently had a meeting with the police to discuss Coronavirus prevention protocols and social distancing norms. "This Koliwada sees massive footfalls, which is why they specially called us to discuss the same. This essentially means that there will be no outsiders allowed. Some families, such as mine, burn effigies outside their homes as a special prayer and that's more of a private affair," says Worlikar.

Hema Chamur, Khar Koliwada resident

At Khar Danda's Koliwada, Kombar Holi is celebrated two days before Holi. "Legend has it that in one particular year, when there was scarcity of wood, our ancestors stole the logs that were placed near wells to help draw water. A complaint was filed with the local government about the theft. The then British administrator decided to implement an official rule commanding the residents to celebrate Holi two days earlier every year," says Hema Chamur, who runs a beauty parlour in Khar.

She says women from the community deck up in traditional finery and take the lead in these celebrations, where they take a matki on their head and roam around the village. It's mandatory for newly wedded brides to grace the puja. They carry coconut, sugarcane among other things and offer in the holy pyre. Freshly prepared puran polis are distributed. She says the tradition is as old as the community itself and it's one that they look forward to the most. The other important festival for the Kolis is Narli Puja. "Here, the community worships the sea. As fishermen, they rely on the sea for their livelihood." Chamur says they have made it a point to paste circulars instructing members to avoid calling guests over and gathering in public to celebrate. "We were fortunate that the lockdown was announced days after Holi last year. But this time around, we have no choice but to keep it low key. Safety will be priority."

A snapshot from last year's celebration

Chira Bazaar's colourful pocket
The Tadwadi Holi Utsav in Chira Bazaar is now in its 115th year. However, due to COVID-19 restrictions, there will be no celebrations. "Most communities celebrate Holi on the designated day. But here, it's a 15-day event and thousands of people visit the utsav. The crowd starts gathering from 7.30 pm and celebrates till midnight," says Ramesh Khanvilkar, organiser of Jai Jawan Kriya Mandal. He says what makes it special is that the festival is celebrated exactly the way people do in the Konkan region. "Since we haven't received police permission, so there won't be any Holi celebrations."