Bandra gets a new Latin-American restaurant serving good food and eclectic interiors

Los Cavos ceviche

When our cab pulled up outside a quaint façade painted in pastel shades of pink, blue, and green, adorned with vintage lamps, we knew we were at the right place. Our destination was Los Cavos, a new entrant in Bandra's crazily dynamic (and volatile) food scene. The restaurant whose name when translated means ‘the cave', is a joint venture by VRO Hospitality Pvt Ltd in partnership with fashion and celebrity photographer, Rahul Jhangiani.

Tropical elixir

The decor embraces an eclectic and layered look, mixing different patterns, textures, and styles. It removes you from Bandra instantly. The contemporary space has been effortlessly transformed to offer a time-worn, distressed and aged setting. We had reserved our table for the second seating at lunch on a balmy Sunday afternoon. While our table was being readied we waited at their large bar that is dressed in vibrant red and green. The cigars at the corner of the bar, the classic murals on walls with chipped-off paint, and the dim lighting set the mood rather nicely.

At the bar, we ordered ourselves a drink. The tropical elixir (Rs 950) is made with a light and aromatic white rum with delicate floral and fruity notes, fresh pineapple juice, tender coconut water, cocalero (an herbal spirit made with the South American coca leaf and other botanicals), coconut, and pineapple foam. It's the perfect lunch-time cocktail - fresh and fruity.

The place filled up quickly and the buzz was infectious. We browsed through the interesting menu. Don't fret if you don't recognise some of the ingredients on the menu; simply ask, as we did, and the team is happy to explain. We started with Bachiche ceviche (Rs 725). We had just dug into the tiny serving of this deliciously dreamy dish cooked with hamachi, cilantro oil, creamy leche de tigre, capers, garlic chips, piquillos (a variety of chilli) and lime when chef Rafael Estremadoyro García, who helms the kitchen at Los Cavos, walked up to our table. The Peruvian has worked as a chef in his home country, in Italy, the United States and Brazil for 14 years; it's his first time in India.

"The food in Peru is unique since it offers influences from the cultures of its immigrant communities: Japanese, Spanish and Italian influences that enrich our cuisine. The ceviche you ordered, for instance, has an Italian influence as heavy cream is added to the sauce," he explains. When we ask him about leche de tigre or tiger's milk, an integral ingredient we noticed not just in the ceviche but in some of the cocktails too, he explains that it's a traditional Peruvian citrus-based marinade, made with lime juice, sliced onion, celery and chilies, used to cure the fish in classic Peruvian ceviche. "While I'm still importing many of the ingredients, I have been scouring the market for fresh local ingredients too. For instance, I'm using local chillies," he says before adding, "Let me send you one of my personal favourites, it will give you an idea of what I'm talking about."

Soon we found ourselves scooping up the Los Cavos ceviche (Rs 750) with hamachi, fried calamari, leche de tigre, chullpi corn (Peruvian pointed dried corn kernels) and a sweet potato puree. The flavours are unique and you can taste every ingredient. There were plenty of vegetarian options on the menu including marinated scallops in pisco, chickpea and cilantro humitas, deep fried baby brussels sprouts and mushroom croquettes.

While Peruvian flavours are intact, the chef has acknowledged the Indian palette. "Peruvian fare isn't too spicy; the flavours lean towards tangy. I'm trying to find the perfect balance," he reveals. We know exactly what he means with the Yakitori chicken brochette (Rs 495) with its piquillo, green jalapeño, red onion, pisco, and Peruvian teriyaki sauce. After tasting dishes with Italian and Japanese influences, for the mains, we pick the seafood rice (Rs 850) loaded with prawns, clams, scallops, mixed bell peppers, green peas, bisque sauce, aioli and sarza criolla - inspired by the Spanish paella, but different.

The interiors with their Peruvian influences. Pics/Sameer Markande

‘The distinction is rooted in the ingredients, rice and chilli varieties and cooking sauce. Paella showcases bomba rice, while the seafood variant employs arborio rice complemented by a mother sauce and Peruvian chilies, prepared in risotto style," the chef explains. For dessert, we taste the chocolate and hazelnut churros, (Rs 390) that melt in the mouth. The ambiance, flavours, and chef Rafael's easy charm make for happy reasons to return to ‘the cave'.

Los Cavos
At: Ground Floor, Kiran Kunj, off Linking Road, Bandra West.
Time: 5 pm to 1 am (Monday to Thursday); 12 pm to 1 am (Friday to Sunday)
Call: 7400405927

'''' Exceptional, ''' Excellent, '' very Good, ' Good, Average. Los Cavos didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals