Matunga’s meaty secret is out

Naati mutton biryani

Tucked away in a street off Kings Circle, Aadeshwari Biryani Centre (ABC) is an eatery that has been delighting patrons with its authentic fare for over a year now. Few might be aware but Aadeshwari Biryani Centre and Ram Ashraya are owned and managed by the same Shetty family. The idea, we learned later, while chatting with the owners, was inspired by founder Ashvij Shetty's many trips from Bengaluru to Coimbatore. The family wanted to redefine the stereotype associated with South Indian cuisine, of serving just idli, vada, and vegetarian dishes. Noticing the lack of non-vegetarian options in Matunga, they decided to introduce a menu that complemented the robust flavours across Andhra and Tamilian cuisines.

Mutton curry dosa

There is an unpretentious and business-like air about the eatery, similar to its Udipi counterparts in the locality. The orders are shouted out, through a window from the kitchen. For those with steady hands, food is served on a banana leaf; the rest can stick to plates. We started our feast with Aadeshwari Fried Chicken (AFC; R230). This chef's special chicken is marinated for 24 hours with a house blend of organic South Indian spices, and is fried to perfection. The prolonged marination process allows the chicken to soak up the spices, resulting in a dish that is soft, juicy, and dripping with flavour and spice.

Chicken kothu parotta

For mains, we tried the Naati mutton biryani (R360). This biryani was a standout; it included succulent pieces of mutton marinated with green spices and herbs; it's how we like to consume our greens. It came served with several accompaniments including salan, a spicy, nutty, and tangy gravy and raita, to balance the spicy salan, dalcha, which is a hearty lentil-based stew, and double ka meetha, a decadent dessert where fried bread soaked in sugar syrup and topped with rich rabri. The biryani is on the drier side, with slightly less masala than its Mughlai counterparts, but the salan complements it well, creating a complete, satisfying meal. What makes their biryani different from others is that instead of using the long grain basmati rice, which has its own aroma and flavour, they use short grain jeera samba, which they source from Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. This rice is rich in fibre and absorbs the aroma and spices of the masala, making the biryani special.

Aadeshwari fried chicken

Another favourite was the mutton curry dosa (Rs 200). Tender pieces of cooked mutton in a house-made masala are stuffed into a thin and crispy dosa. It's a flavour fest for the palate. For us, the chicken kothu parotta (Rs 170) was a pleasant, delicious surprise. Here, the shredded paratha is cooked with spicy salan and kurma. This dish is a medley of different textures, with chicken, egg, and fried onion working together to create an explosion of flavours. While we had visited ABC on a Thursday, we are happy to report that the eatery offers Sunday specials like chicken Kshatriya; on Tuesdays, the Nellore dry chicken is on offer that pairs well with the Ceylon parotta. Vegetarians need not fret, as the menu also serves a delicious vegetarian biryani (Rs 180) as well as bun parotta with korma (R90). The service is fast and friendly, with knowledgeable servers recommending dishes based on the patron's preferences.

During a chat with co-owner Jagdish Shetty, he added that extensive research had gone into creating each recipe. He involved his friends in the tasting process of every potential new dish, ensuring each recipe was near-perfect for patrons. Turns out, his friends did us foodies a big, meaty favour.

Aadeshwari Biryani Centre
At Brahmanwadi, shop no 4&5, ground floor, Modi Manor, KA Subramanyam Marg, Kings Circle, Matunga (Central).
Time 12.30 pm to 11.30 pm
Call 8928780498
Log on to @aadeshwari_biryani_center