Latino state of mind

Argentine flatbread

Our first walk into Mathuradas-Todi Mills after a year is nostalgic. The site that was once abuzz with eateries and lounges is quiet. But things are slowly changing as new spaces open. Cafe Panama is one of the first off the block that replaces Café Zoe, which shuttered in 2019. Co-owners Sohale Lalwani and Shaan Gidwani say, "We were replacing an icon, and so we first allowed the space to lead us to our concept. We zeroed in on a glamorous Latin American vibe, with lots of plants, a larger sunroof, and a bright bottle-green tiled bar that takes you into a rapture as you enter," he reveals.

Yuca fries

Ketan Thakkar, AVP-operations, divulges their focus, "The post-2020 customer is new. Earlier, every meal was a party, from Thursday to Sunday, and guests wanted to linger; now people are averse to crowds. We plan to create an experience out of every outing, including different alcohol experiments like the pink tequila, and homegrown gins."

Our entry is via a photo booth dunked in pink light and a light installation that reads: Panama State of Mind. The tall faux palm trees and classy sofa seating distracts us until we spot the eye-catching bar. We sip on The Panama (Rs 700), a potent high spirit with tequila-infused with rosemary, thyme and orange zest while Lilly (Rs 600) is milder but refreshing with gin and fresh cucumber juice, and offers the bittersweet comfort of elderflower and lime juice. Mateo (Rs 600), also gin-based, is a melee of star fruit and fresh passion fruit juice with the depth of homemade cherry liqueur.

The interiors of Cafe Panama

The taste journey begins with Ajoblanco (Rs 45), a cold soup made of cucumber, topped with a grape salsa and roasted almonds. The soup has bite but it doesn't work as a unit, and is too grainy on the palate. Cassava yuca fries (Rs 375) come stacked like wood and dusted with paprika. The side of togarashi mayo and fermented hot sauce, which is flavourful and not all fire, is the ideal bar snack.

The South American meat preparations are well-presented; we love the Chicken chimichurri (Rs 445) and Jerk chicken (Rs 475) which has smoked chilli oil and a scallion rub. The menu takes a progressive European sojourn with Wild mushroom Argentine flatbread (Rs 495), slathered in a red chimichurri sauce and cheese that's a winner. Dessert is Tres leches (Rs 395), a cake soaked in three forms of milk, which isn't indulgent. We are reminded of the version at the original Sanchos; the pista is a weak interpretation of shahi tukda. The Biscoff cheesecake (Rs 395) makes amends; it's a decadent mascarpone cheesecake with biscoff flavour caramel coffee biscuit and a layer of burnt milk soil.

At: Cafe Panama, Todi-Mathuradas Mills Compound, NM Joshi Marg, Lower Parel.
Time: 11 am to 12.30 am
Call: 9820819181