05 October,2023 07:36 AM IST | Mumbai | Shriram Iyengar
Malvan food
Among the many things the British Empire gained from colonialism was an education in taste and flavour. The greatest example being the most popular staple of modern English cuisine - the curry. So much so that in 1988, UK journalist Peter Grove founded the National Curry Week to celebrate the dish till October 8.
To celebrate the occasion, we reach out to city restaurateurs and chefs to curate a list of unique and lesser-known curries from across the country.
Freshly caught bangda (mackerel) from the seas has an indescribable allure for every Malvani. Chicken is relished with great gusto on the odd occasion, but when it comes to the one food that whets their appetite, it's got to be a fish.
Recommended dish - Bangda tikhl: It is a tangy spicy thick curry that is different from your usual fish curry. The key ingredient that sets it apart is tirphal, a spice predominantly used in southern Konkan's cuisine. I learned the art of making tikhl from my mother; it's so close to my heart that I introduced this dish in my restaurant. You won't find it anywhere in Mumbai. I fondly recall enjoying it as a child. It was a dish with very little coconut, kokum, tirphal, and turmeric leaves ground on a pata mortar and pestle. Freshly caught mackerel is traditionally cooked in a single pot, either in an iron pan or mud pots known as sorkul. Over time, this culinary tradition has evolved, and today, we have a refined method of making tikhl.
At: Chinchh Bhatt Chawl, SK Bole Road, opposite Aagar Bazar, Dadar West
Call: 9769909030
Cost: Rs 230
We have a wider variety of flavouring, colouring and thickening agents in our curries that vary across regions. The central plains have gourmet cuisine. Kashmir's sparse vegetation birthed slow-cooking techniques. While in Punjab, dairy comes into play.
Recommended dish - Beliram gosht: The dish was named after Maharaja Ranjit Singh's chef. It uses the roots, seeds and leaves of coriander in its preparation. The primary ingredients are fairly basic, but the flavour is fit for a king.
At: Palladium Mall, Lower Parel; Phoenix Marketcity, Kurla
Call: 8657531989 (Lower Parel)
Cost: Rs 800
The term curry traces its roots to South India. It refers to the use of curry leaves in most of the preparations. What is unique though to the south is the use of tamarind. The pulp is used as a flavour addition, ingredient and preservative. It enables recipes with meat or fish to be preserved for longer.
Recommended dish - Tamarind fish curry: The curry uses tamarind as its key ingredient. The dish's basic form can suit vegetarian and non-vegetarian iterations. There is also the yellow coconut curry that uses coriander, cumin and mint.
At: Pali Hill, Bandra West; also, in Versova
Call: 7303021212 (Bandra)
Cost: Rs 650
Naga pork curry is a signature dish of Nagaland, made with pork, local herbs, and spices. The curry has a rich, smoky flavour with a spicy kick. It is often served with sticky rice or steamed vegetables. When there's a celebration like a wedding or you have friends coming over, you can opt for this lovely pork dish with bamboo shoot. It's often made as a dry dish with dried bamboo shoots.
Recommended dish - Naga pork curry: When we make it in a curry form, I use fresh bamboo shoot, which gives the curry a tangy taste. We use dried, fresh, fermented and bamboo shoot water which can replace vinegar in dishes. The dried version of this dish can be eaten with the Naga soupy khichadi called Galho that is a popular dish that originates from Nagaland, specifically from the Naga Angami tribe.
The âGa' stands for green vegetables, while âlho' signifies the act of slow and careful cooking. Galho is typically cooked slowly over a low flame, allowing the ingredients to meld together, resulting in a delightful, flavourful broth. It can be prepared in large quantities and stored, making it a convenient option when time is limited.
Log on to: @naga_chukka.
Call: 9769818032 cost R480
Recommended dish - Doodh pabda: This is a butterfish - cooked in Bengali homes in mustard gravy or in a ginger tomato curry. The dish is called doodh pabda, which is fish cooked in a milk gravy is not a regular dish, but a delectable dish usually mastered by mothers in the mood to make something different. It is a light fish curry with oodles of character. This is as Bengali as a dish can get.
Log on to: @peppercorns_abhinanda
Call: 9619917803
Cost: As per availability
INGREDIENTS
>> 6 pieces of pabda fish
>> 1 tsp Nigella seeds or kalo jeere
>> 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
>> A dash of turmeric
>> 1 and half cup warm milk
>> Mustard oil for cooking
>> Salt to taste
METHOD
Massage the fish (six pieces) with salt and turmeric. Lightly fry it on both sides in hot mustard oil with a lid on the pan the whole time. In the same oil, sprinkle a teaspoon full of Nigella seeds or kalo jeere. Then, add a tablespoon of ginger and green chilli paste. Add salt to taste and a dash of turmeric. Stir for two minutes before adding a cup and a half of warm milk for gravy. When the gravy starts to simmer, drop in six green chillies slit down the middle. After three minutes on low or medium flame, the dish is ready to be served.
