Re-imagine idli with Subko's new menu

(Left) Idzaa is a flavourful spin on Neopolitan pizza; (right) idwich is filling, and can get messy while eating

Trigger warning: traditional South Indian foodies may find the contents of this article difficult to digest. In Bandra's Mary Lodge by Subko, the soft, fluffy thatte idli has been re-imagined as pizza, sandwiches, bagel, eggs Kejriwal and other iterations. As the new menu at the café invites a mix of amused and confused reactions on social media, this writer dropped by to review this latest addition to the city's manic, endless list of fusion fare.

This project by Subko is titled: Re-imagining the Idli. The special menu includes idwal: eggs Kejriwal x idli, idwich: makhani sandwich, idwich: lamb sandwich, idzaa: pizza x idli, idgel: bagel x idli, and three other traditional options in podi idli. When we reach the café, we are directed to the first floor for dine-in. Here, eight thatte idlis are prominently displayed in the front row, alongside regular pastries and sandwiches. After placing our order at the counter, we found a seat near the balcony. We noticed an installation near a window pane: it's a wet grinder where a note reads: Subko thatte iIdli batter meets sourdough starter. The note further states how the machine is used to create the idlis. We like that this project is trying to create an immersive experience.

The re-imagined thatte idlis on display. Pics/Devanshi Doshi

Nearly 15 minutes later, our idwich: makhani sandwich (Rs 545) arrives in a thatte (Kannada for dish). This plate has ‘thatte idli' etched along the borders in several South Indian languages. In the centre is the chef-d'oeuvre, the idli sandwich. When we try to hold it up, the filling spills over from the sides and falls onto the plate. Our attendant tells us that these idlis are made to be messy, and consumed using hands. The first bite is a flavour-burst. We taste daal makhani, feta cheese, avocado, butter and idli, all at once. The thatte idli is crispy on the outside, and has a similar texture to bread. But it is as pillow-ey as one would expect an idli to taste like on the inside; and thus, it wins our vote.

As we are already sated (the dish is filling), we decide to take away the other varieties. However, when we reach the ground floor, which is reserved for takeaways, the counter staff informs us that these idlis cannot be "taken away". They reason that since it's early days, they don't have the correct boxes to pack them and that take-away will commence as soon as these issues are sorted. They justified this policy by saying that idlis are meant to be eaten fresh at the café, and that it won't survive the commute. If you're not ready for takeaway, why advertise in the first place? After refusing our repeated pleas for a takeaway, we had to reluctantly order another serving at the café.

We called for the idzaa (R425), which is made in Neapolitan style, with a thick layer of tomato and pesto paste, and is garnished with cheese and rucola leaves. This is a sweet-tangy dish, and is easier to navigate than the idwich. We learnt that the sourdough used in all idlis is gluten-free, and noticed that the menu mentions allergens, wherever used.
While we love the bold, quirky inclusions, the fuss over takeaways is a no-no, especially in a city where not everyone has the leisure to have a relaxed meal.

Mary Lodge by Subko
AT Chapel Road, Bandra West. (NOTE: Idli menu available only at this Subko outlet)
Time 7.30 am to 10 pm
Call 8591745691

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