What's in this sub?

The fate of these shops is stuck in limbo as the owners and BMC negotiate a legal battle. Pics/Ashish Raje

Who would have thought that a stretch underneath the ground could also be a Foley artist's dream? The sound of chugging trains and their sharp sirens have hardly faded when we find ourselves inside this underground world. The annoying ring of wind-up toys, the hurried rustle of time-strapped commuters, the clamour of chattering shopkeepers and customers, all create a grand cacophony... like a an apt background score to the imagery of the bustling CSMT Subway. It is hard to picture the space quiet and empty, but that very well could be its future.

In March, the BMC issued a notice to the shopkeepers inside asking them to vacate the space as part of the civic body's move to clear up congestion on the stretch. The legal battle that ensued, and is on-going, has not only left owners in the lurch, but has also rendered the fate of their shops and that of 250 workers uncertain. But they say make hay when the sun shines for a reason, and we decided to do just that. Irrespective of what the future holds, here are our top four picks from the subway to make the most of.

Shopkeepers rearrange knick knacks at the gift store

Gifting smiles
Atul Maru's Channel 9 gift shop has been around for as many years as the subway. Much like a typical neighbourhood gift store, this one is home to knick knacks ranging from wall clocks, photo albums, idols and good-luck plants to board games and jewellery. "Most of the customers that I get are educated working professionals. It's convenient for them to stop by and pick something up quickly," Maru tells us, adding that advocates, railway employees and amusingly, BMC officials are among his regulars, along with those visiting the hospitals in the vicinity. "My customers are typically strapped for time and so, they come here when in search of affordable everyday items," he explains.

Shree Ji's store

Food on-the-go
While the popularity of Shree Ji's, a grocery and farsan store, has reached beyond the subway, Food Step, a gift shop that was renovated last year to become a mini supermarket, has gained traction among commuters, too. It is home to a variety of food items, including packaged goods like chocolates, gums, candies and juice boxes, as well as packaged snacks like idli, dhokla and poran poli.

A woman picks out farsan at Food Step

"We source most of our items from vendors. However, we also keep seasonal eats like special ladoos and barfis that don't go bad easily and are usually made by home cooks and housewives," owner Pravin Saiya tells us.

Commuters stop by for a bite at the snack corner

Snacking away
Amol Kasle's Masumi Snack Corner originally started out of the need to generate fast cash to pay for the workers employed in his jewellery business, where long-drawn transactions are common. But over the last 15 years, it has grown to become a go-to for commuters looking for a quick bite.

On offer are a range of chaats like bhel puri, pani puri and sev puri, samosa, sandwich and tea and coffee. "We don't get any high-fi customers, so most of our items are priced within R30," Kasle says, adding that he finds the BMC's claims illogical as commuters go straight in or out. "It's not like people are going to go left or right into the walls, so structurally, there is no need to remove these stalls," he argues.

Ashok Kumar helps a customer pick out one of the popular white shirts

White collar hippie
A cursory scan of the subway will confirm that white shirts are a hit. Located in a neighbourhood that is home to corporate offices, law firms and ironically, the BMC office, it is not difficult to tell why. The facade of 20-odd garment stores and stalls are lined with heaps of these pristine white garments, varying only in size and generally priced at a flat R100. Ajay Kumar Singh, owner of Me Me Bags, an 18-year-old garment stall, says that the larger percentage of his customers hail from the lower and middle classes, comprising those looking for cheap wear and children's clothes within the R350-bracket. Having spent almost two decades in the subway, Kumar has seen it change. "Pehle yahan bahut log aate the, lekin aatankvadi humle ke baad, tourists bahut kam aane lage hain," he says. When terrorists opened fire on passengers at the CSMT on 26/11, Kumar recalls witnessing a flurry of horrified passengers, finding out from them what had transpired, and running for his life. "I came back 15 minutes later to shut my shop and secure my belongings," he shares. "The BMC officials want to clear congestion, but the truth is, the footfall has anyway slumped over the years. If you ever visit on a day when the Harbour line is shut, you'll see a different picture. We get almost no customers on such days," he adds. Although slightly more high-budget, another favourite for garments among regulars and a store worth checking out is Chalte Chalte.

Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news, crime news, current affairs, and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates