When the ants go marching in: Mumbai chefs attempt at de-stigmatising the red ant chutney

Tribals sell red ant chutney in a local mandi in Odisha

In Amit Masurkar's film, Newton, Malko - played by actor Anjali Patil - takes a dig at a righteous government official on election duty for his lack of knowledge about the food habits of a neighbouring region. Her uninhibited sarcasm, while involuntarily biting into a handful of red ants, drew this writer's attention to a people's struggle for conserving their ethos. The character of Newton, who finds the possibility of snacking on red ants from a mound ‘interesting', essays city-bred sentiments of distanced acceptability - something the presentation for a GI label for kai chutney intends to fight.

The red weaver ant dish that is being presented for a GI tag

Do weaver ant dishes ensure food security? Can winning the tag upgrade the reputation of tribal ingredients? Will a mainstream foodie warm up to ants on their plate? City-based chefs discuss the health highlights of this chutney and ways in which it can be rid of doubting glances.

Nutrition before refinement

Food can never be about good, bad, or inedible. It is extremely subjective. Food should also be recognised for its chief purpose of providing nutrition and sustenance. Only when this purpose is fulfilled, refining food in terms of flavour, texture, pairings and presentation comes into question. The kai chutney is a perfect example of sustenance.

Red weaver ants are rich in amino acids and vitamin B12. They help build immunity, treat internal inflammation, and curb cough and cold. People need to understand that what's taboo for them, can be a necessity or even a delicacy in another person's culture. As a chef, I feel, if eating chicken is normal, so is eating insects. The only thing is such food practices should be carried on responsibly without causing any harm to nature.

Talking about local foods for security, I can recall my time in Thailand. I used to eat deep-fried grasshoppers that were tossed in chillies, sugar and kaffir lime, and served with peanuts. They were delicious and had a chicken-skin-like crunch. I couldn't stop nibbling on them until the packet was over.

Chef Niyati Rao, head chef and partner, Ekaa

Keep dialogue alive

I hail from Rairangpur, a small village in Odisha's Mayurbhanj district. The kai chutney is a fond childhood memory. Since much of my growing-up years were spent there, I cherish memories of local women collecting these ants and whipping them up into a pungent side. That researchers are mooting the idea and streamlining a presentation for the dish to win the registration, makes mainstream foodies aware about it. As an insider, I take heart in tracing the progress of its journey. Indigenous people believe that the chutney is a remedy for asthma. The red weaver is also enjoyed as an accompaniment with handiya, a fermented rice drink, in some parts of Mayurbhanj. Opening a conversation helps counter preconceived notions. It is important to note the language that's being used to write about local produce across popular media.

Sneha Senapati, home chef

Did you know?

. In parts of Chhattisgarh, where ant chutney is consumed abundantly, the dish is referred to as chapda or chaprah chutney. Chaprah refers to baskets made from sal leaves. The leaf baskets are nests of the ant.

. In fact, interestingly, the red ant chutney of Bastar in Chattisgarh even made it to celebrity masterchef Gordon Ramsay's menu. The chef had tried the red ant chutney when he was touring India for his documentary.

. The kai chutney is reportedly a rich source of protein, calcium, zinc, vitamin B-12, iron, magnesium, potassium, sodium, copper, fiber and 18 amino acids, and offered to those suffering from cough and cold, too.