Honest review of this stall's twisted vada pav flavours from Malad West

Ulta cheese burst vada pav

Food: Flavourful
Ambiance: Street-side, clean
Service: Quick
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 2/4

How far, whether in price or distance, are you willing to go to taste Mumbai's favourite snack - vada pav? This writer walks nearly six kilometres to the canteen near Kanheri Caves at Sanjay Gandhi National Park. It's the fried kadi patta and rai nestled in soft and lightly spiced potato, covered with a thin and slightly crispy besan coat that hits the spot after a two-hour walk. And recently, we discovered a new stall on a forgotten street in Malad West that offers a twist on this classic. Who would've thought this entity packed in a pav could be so versatile? We had to try it out.

Ulta vada pav

Mee Atmanirbhar (MA) Vadapavwale is run by two friends, 26-year-old baker Kajal Raj Shetty and 29-year-old cinematographer Ankita Deepak Thakur. They've set up their stall near Orlem's Baudi Lane bus stop and have three main offerings - schezwan vada pav, cheese burst vada pav and ulta vada pav. You can customise your order by mixing the flavours. We are also told that the cost of the dishes varies according to the price of the ingredients used.

Schezwan vada pav

Our takeaway includes the cheese, schezwan and ulta pav. It's packed in newspaper, but you can get them in aluminium foil containers, too. Before we get to these fun twists and flavours, let's talk about the actual vada pav itself, which is pretty good. The batter isn't too thick, and the aloo filling is well seasoned. We're not a fan of vadas shaped as humongous spheres, so we're happy to bite into a medium-sized vada that will be filling as a snack or meal. Coming to the first dish, the cheese burst vada pav (R40) is not doused in cheese, and to our surprise, adds a new creamy dimension to the dish considering the cheese - added inside the vada - is spreadable and not sliced. It doesn't taste like a mismatched fusion but a happy marriage. Plain cheese (Rs 30) comes topped with grated cheese and garlic chutney.

The stall in Orlem, near Baudi Lane

For the schezwan vada pav (Rs 20), we're told that all the ingredients are made at home and the schezwan does not include ajinomoto. But we chicken out due to an allergy to salt, and request our friend to taste it instead. The review makes us jealous. It hits you with just the right amount of spice without overpowering the rest of the vada pav.

Kajal Raj Shetty and Ankita Deepak Thakur. Pics/Tanishka D'Lyma

And finally the main item, ulta vada pav (Rs 22). This includes a regular vada pav that is dipped in batter - bread and all - and deep fried. Since the founder-chefs have nailed the vada pav in itself, an added battered layer isn't a bad idea. What makes or breaks any vada pav are the chutneys. The MA Vadapavwale garlic chutney is a tad too subtle, so you do need to add quite a bit of it to enjoy the flavours. If you're looking for a spice kick, the green chutney is a great balance of sweet and spice. Together, both dry and wet chutneys make for a great combination. For an eventful meal, try the ulta cheese burst vada pav (Rs 40).

The vada pavs are served fresh at the stall; the potatoes are boiled and chutneys are prepared on the same morning from 5 am at home. Along with the guarantee of fresh food, the stall also passes our cleanliness checks. The duo caters for large functions. We would definitely recommend a stop at MA Vadapavwale; we'll be heading back again ourselves. And if you're not akin to the idea of recreating an OG, think about it this way - we're not improving the classic, just celebrating what it has to offer.

On Monday to Saturday; 11 am to 7 pm
At Orlem, near Baudi Lane bus stop, opposite Merwans, Marve Road, Malad West.
Log on to @ma_vadapavwale

The Guide's top 5 picks

. Vada pav shop, opposite St Andrew's College, Saint Dominic Road, Bandra West.
. Udipi Vihar, Aarey Road, Goregaon East.
. Stall outside Kanakia Police Station, Mira Road East.
. Ashok Vada Pav, Kirti College, Dadar.
. Aram Vada Pav, opposite CSMT Railway Station.

4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0/4 Average. MA Vadapavwale didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals