This Versova cafe will change your Nazariya

The staff members are trained to manage the front end as well as the kitchen. Pic/Ashish Rane

Food: Satisfying
Ambience: Cosy
Service: Inviting
Cost: Affordable
Verdict: 3/5

We have to halt on our trail to locate a new café in Versova's Aram Nagar neighbourhood because we're lost, despite checking the Instagram account of @bambainazariya for directions. Finally, we call Diego Miranda, the café's founder. "Wait where you are; I'll come out to receive you," the 21-year-old assures us.

When we meet him, he tells us that the issue with Google Maps will be sorted soon. We step into Aram Nagar 2, passing by quaint bungalows that are home to
production houses.

Bambai Nazariya is nestled in a nook. Once inside, we follow a white-pebbled path towards the small al fresco section and into a charming indoor area. There's a retro vibe - we spot a boxy TV set, and a gramophone placed on a sewing machine; these props are remodelled to serve as tables, apart from a mini library and colourful bohemian cushion covers. The café spells quirk with its word play. A frame reads, "We work for tips, a''hole". Another says: "Nazariya Badlo, Nazara Badlega," while a mirror displays the words: "Dekho magar pyar se".

The café has al fresco and indoor seating options. Pics/Ashish Rane

Miranda gives us the back story. "The idea surfaced seven years ago, but the will to help the transgender community began thanks to my dad. He was respectful of them and whenever they came to our door, he always gave them money. He told me to always help them as no one hires them. I grew up in a chawl, and so during Christmas, when the hijra community came for donations, he would offer them sweets and food," he recalls. He entered the hospitality industry after college, had a short stint at a friend's café and later, opened burger-and-hot dog stalls across the city.

In December 2018, his father passed away and he was forced to take up a job. "The dream never left me. My girlfriend Glenice D'Sa, who is my partner at the café, has a screenshot of a chat we had when I first told her about my dream; the name of the café was Bambai Nazariya," he recalls proudly. While continuing with his full-time job, he researched and networked to understand what was needed to create a safe space that employed transgender individuals. Miranda's café has hired three staffers - Mahii, Suhani and Sunya - from the transgender community through Tweet Foundation and Humsafar Trust. He trains them to manage the front end as well as the kitchen while a chef friend makes weekly visits so they can hone their culinary skills.

Seated in the al fresco area, we soak in the sun rays that play hide-and-seek through the tree cover as well as the view of the tastefully done interiors. We order the Kashmiri pink tea (Rs 120); it is boiled with chai masala like cinnamon along with almond, while beetroot powder adds the colour. Mildly spiced, it's warm and soothing. The Passion fruit cooler (Rs 150) is a thirst-quencher that tastes like a homemade ice tea. For now, it's an all-bake menu, and so we try the corn and spinach quiche (Rs 100); it's a well-done pastry that packs in a cheesy and sweet filling. The GBT puff (Rs 60) with fresh basil, tomato and cheese filling is a winner but it's the ham croissant (Rs 250) that is our table favourite. Next, we opt for a sweet deviation, and order the custard roll (Rs 60) and cinnamon roll (Rs 60). The former is creamy and on target but the latter is a tad dry.

Bambai Nazariya's quirky décor gives off a retro vibe; ham croissant

Suhani, a transgender server who identifies herself as she/her, checks if we're enjoying our meal. We invite her to join us. "I hail from Kurukshetra, Haryana. It is my first time in Mumbai; the city is wonderful. It's tough since it's my first time away from home but working here is easier. It gives my life a fresh start," she shares, adding that she struggled to find acceptance in her hometown.

She excuses herself because the place is filling up and orders need to be taken as we open our laptop to begin our work day. This café deserves a revisit: to work, read a book, catch up with friends or find inspiration. Good job, Diego.

Quiche and pink chai

At Bambai Nazariya (Chai house), lane next to Pino's Pizza, behind Mukesh Chhabra's production house, Aram Nagar 2, Versova, Andheri.
Time 10.30 am to 9 pm CALL 9619731050

4/5 Exceptional, 3/5 Excellent, 2/5 very Good, 1/5 Good, 0/5 Average. Bambai Nazariya didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals