Smokin’ good idea: Assam food service brings flavours of northeast to the city

Thai-style smoked fish stew

There's a song in the name, DhowaSang. This writer can't say if the song is sweet, but it touches on some harmonious humming and crackling sounds. In Assamese, dhowa means smoke and sang is the raised platform in almost every kitchen in northeastern India. DhowaSang, now a local brand in Athiaboi village, 15 km away from Guwahati, has taken up the task of introducing traditionally smoked meat to food lovers within and outside of its home state. Founder of the service, Runa Rafique lost her piggery to African swine fever in October, 2020. "I lost my pigs to the disease. Some died and the others were culled by the state government to contain the disease. The background to our service lies in Saraighat farms, where we raise antibiotic-free meat. After shutting down my pig farm, I concentrated on duck and chicken farming. Currently, producing antibiotic-free chicken is my chief area of concern." Ask her if any personal change in belief led to her decision of cultivating organic meat and she explains how being a conscious farmer spurred it all. "I read up on multi-drug resistance in antibiotic-laden meat. That's how the journey started." The concept of curating and transporting smoked meat started with an eye for flavour-enhancement. Rafique deals in specialties such as smoked fish, duck, pork and chicken, but the show-stealer are the two specially-designed meat preparations by her ally, Geeta Dutta.

Smoked meats by DhowaSang

Dutta has been experimenting with food and documenting the rich treasure trove of local cuisine since long. With the smoked meat available at Rafique's farm, Dutta introduces her own chunga (hollowed bamboo stems) chicken with bamboo shoots, majenga seeds and bhoot jolokia, and chunga chicken or pork with lai xaak and bhoot jolokia. About her experience of working on these ready-to-eat dishes, the culinary artiste shares, "Once you open the packet, the pungent aroma of fermented bamboo shoots wafts across. A lot about food is also about accepting the culture behind it; I wanted a slice of our food, spices and cooking techniques to reach other communities. I also want people to note that these smoky meats need not be used in traditional recipes alone. One can mix and match, and use the meats in other recipes, too."

Runa Rafique overlooks work at her farm

Rafique feels lucky to have explored the market for smoked meat in Assam at the right time. "Chicken is the least controversial meat a farmer can work with in India; after identifying the growing demand for smoked chicken varieties, I have not looked back. I would never want to use too much mechanisation and so catering to bulky orders could be a problem. Still, quality and heritage cooking are on my mind," she signs off.

Smoked duck seared in red wine

Smoked duck seared in red wine

Ingredients
. Smoked duck pieces:
3 to 4 pieces (medium-sized)
. Five-spice powder: 3 Chinese cinnamon, 4 cloves, 5 fennel, 1 Sichuan peppercorn and 2 star anise
. Salt to taste
. Cinnamon: 1 stick
. Butter: 1 tbsp
. Rosemary sprigs: 3
. Garlic: Minced, 3 big cloves

Method
Rub the smoked duck pieces with the five-spice powder and some salt, and allow them to rest for an hour. Heat butter in a pan, add the minced garlic and then, the marinated duck pieces. Sauté the contents of the pan for five minutes. In goes good quality red wine. Lower the heat and flavour the sauce with rosemary and a stick of cinnamon. Close the lid and let it simmer for 20 minutes. You may add orange zest for aroma, but that is optional. Take out the duck pieces after 20 minutes. Plate them with a side of mashed potatoes or bread. Remember to pour the sauce over the duck pieces.

Geeta Dutta

Thai-style smoked fish stew

Ingredients
. Smoked fish pieces: 5
. Spring onions: 1 bunch
. Fresh baby spinach: 100 gm
. Tomato: 2 big (halved)
. Sliced ginger: 1 inch
. Green chillies: 4
. Black pepper: 1/ 2 tsp . Fresh coriander leaves: 1 small bowl
. Fish sauce: 1 tsp
. Basil leaves: 6
. Light soya sauce: 1 tsp

Method
Boil three cups of water in a pot. Do add salt to the boiling water. Now, add the chopped spring onions, spinach, halved tomatoes, sliced ginger and chopped chillies. The smoked fish pieces go in next. Close the lid and let it simmer for 10 minutes. After you've waited for 10 long minutes, open the lid and add some light soya and fish sauce. Stir the contents of the pot, and cover and cook for another five minutes. Garnish the stew with fresh basil.