Raw appeal: A new dining space in Ballard Estate is serving regional Indian flavours

Meen moilee

It's fitting that Native Bombay celebrates all things Indian. After all, IF.BE, the restored 150-year-old ice factory, which houses the resto-bar, traces its history to 1880, when it froze the monopoly of a European ice-maker and offered the city affordable ice. Now, led by Amardeep Tony Singh and Abhayraj Singh Kohli - of Pritam Da Dhaba legacy - the eatery is geared to take diners on a cross-country trail of desi flavours.

Kaapi negroni and Star of Bombay

The entrance opens on the Cochin Street-side of the ice factory. Spread across two floors, the 100-seater restaurant retains reminders of its past in its brick-exposed walls, criss-cross wooden beams, an old motor, and giant windows that tower over the Mangalore-tiled roof. The mood lighting lends the space a rustic, romantic aura, though it can feel cavernous. "When I saw the place, I was struck by its grand scale, and high ceilings, for which I have a soft spot," Singh admits. With chef Bhairav Singh at the helm, the eatery, he hopes, will champion local ingredients.

Parsi papad and Naga chilli pork

Our journey kicks off at the intimate ground-floor bar, where head mixologist Denzil Franklin stirs up a host of negronis - from the OG barrel-aged to pandan and curry leaf-infused avatars. We settle for a rush of caffeine with kaapi negroni (Rs 750), imbued with freshly concocted filter coffee. In refreshing contrast, the passion sbagliato (Rs 1,050) offers a bubbly, bittersweet kick. The bar, which is a chilled-out spot to unwind after work, also serves small plates like rogan josh tacos and matar khasta rolls that are easier on the pocket. The Bengali in us calls for kasundi fish tikka (Rs 390), which lacks the pungent hit of mustard we were looking for. It's salvaged by a tomato murabba, reminiscent of the runnier tomato ‘chatni', a must-have at Bengali feasts.

Paan paneer tikka

We move the party to the upper floor, which comprises another bar, a private dining room, a cosy balcony, and a sprawling dining area. Our meal is peppered by the chef's stories of food expeditions. Determined to showcase a new complimentary papad every month, he offers us Parsi papads, served alongside a hot thetcha. It clears up the palate for the smoky and succulent NH48 chicken tikka (Rs 450), a delicious ode to the highway dhaba treat. Bombay bomb (Rs 350), meanwhile, comprises Talegaon potato shells stuffed with a sweet-spicy chutney. A melange of textures - albeit a tad dry - the chaat is inspired by memories of munching on chana jor garam at Juhu Chowpatty.

The bar on the upper floor. Pics/Atul Kamble

Our next stop is the North East, with Naga chilli pork (Rs 490), tossed in dalle khursaani chilli and bhut jolokia paste. Fiery is an understatement for this crispy, addictive treat which almost has us in tears. We reach for big glugs of the gin-based star of Bombay (Rs 850), that instantly transports us to summer holidays spent sucking on star fruit slices laced with chaat masala. Still reeling from the heat of the chillies, we enjoy the balanced sweetness of the soft paan paneer tikka (Rs 410), filled with Banarasi betel leaf purée, fennel chutney and gulkand from Kannauj.

Chef Bhairav Singh and Amardeep Tony Singh

Among the mains, what stays with us is the warm and coconut-ey meen moilee (Rs 790) from Kerala, which is quite slurp-worthy. The pretty, petite flambéed rasmalai tres leches (R375), although light and airy, feels a bit too sweet for our palate. But the dessert that plays on our childhood nostalgia is a mildly spiced matka kulfi with peru (Rs 210). We wash it all down with a whiskey-spiked (and pricey) version of kadha (Rs 850) that - as Indian mothers like to believe - had us sleep like a baby on touching homeground.

Native Bombay
At: 10-12, Cochin Street, Ballard Estate
Opens: Today; 7 pm to 12 am; 5 pm to 1.30 am (bar)
Call: 9619066000