Of elevated evenings

Lal maas lamb tacos

FOOD: TASTY
AMBIENCE: RELAXED
SERVICE: EFFICIENT
COST: MODERATE
VERDICT: 1/4

Curious about the underpinnings of this brand new Bandra restobar's rather unusual name - Oheka - our pre-visit due diligence yielded an interesting insight. An acronym using the first few letters of each part of its creator's name, Otto Hermann Kahn, Oheka Castle in Long Island, New York, is one of the few castles in the US built on a truly epic scale.

Parmesan crusted chicken. Pics/Ashish Raje

Back in Mumbai and replacing the popular Amanzi Sky Deck & Bar, Oheka is an evening-only rooftop space. Nestled in the midst of lush foliage that gives it a relaxed, tropical vibe, the poolside space has a private cabana and a cantilevered transparent deck that seems to float over the swimming pool. There is also a lounge area in the main building done up in dark coloured accents.

Being one of the first patrons of the evening, we were offered a choice of seating. We chose the pool deck, where we could see swimmers taking laps below our table, as we sipped on our cocktails. While both our first choices - the sugar-free whisky and lapsang tea smokey Lucifer ('525) and a banana-based riff on a pina colada, the plantains colada ('475) - were disappointingly unavailable, we made do with our second choices.

Citron melon slush

The spicy and decidedly Thai-flavoured boon-me ('475) was a deliciously tall libation with its white rum, kaffir lime and bird's eye chilli parts shining through. Served in a brandy snifter, the whisky and watermelon-based citron melon slush ('475) was paradoxically both smoky and citrus-y at the same time, making for a ripper of a cocktail.

Brought to our table within minutes of placing our order, the trash can nachos ('240) were presented beautifully in a tin can that our server dramatically upturned onto the serving plate. A cascade of nacho chips, re-fried beans and sour cream all enrobed in a silky cheese sauce ensued. But we did try our best to seek out the promised guacamole sauce that seemed to be missing from the otherwise simple and tasty bar snack.

Trash can nachos

Our order of the Oheka signature lal maas lamb tacos ('340) had us devouring three generously portioned tacos that were actually mini phulkas with a tangy stuffing of pulled, spicy lamb and raw red onions. Egged on by our server, we gave the parmesan crusted chicken ('410) a go, only to be faced with mixed reactions.

While the breaded and flattened fried chicken breast was both tender and juicy, sitting atop a bed of smooth mashed potato and accompanied by a rocket and cherry tomato salad, it was the mushroom sauce that let the dish down. Not only was the it criminally salty, but it had also split, resulting in an unappealing, lumpy puddle around the chicken. And while we've already promised ourselves a repeat visit to Oheka soon, we hope the next time round it's a perfect 10!

At Oheka, third floor, C'est La Vie, near Holy Family Hospital, Hill Road, Bandra West.
Time 7 pm to 1.30 am
Call 9324029879

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4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE