25 August,2017 07:01 PM IST | Mumbai | Krutika Behrawala
We take up the challenge of feasting on a massive Bohri thaal that feeds seven and live to tell a scrumptious tale
(Clockwise from left) Bheja Hara Masala, Nalli Nihari, Paya Soup, Tandoori Roti, Dal Chawal Palidu, Pizza Naan and Bohri Biryani (centre)
The Hill Road's din is drowned out by soothing Middle Eastern music as we step into The Tha'l Co, tucked in a residential building off the bustling street. We soak in the pale blue and stone grey décor, with charming latticework, candle-lit tables and abstract art adorning the walls, half expecting a performance of belly dancers. Instead, two staffers bring out a massive, 33-inch Bohri thaal, laden with nine types of starters, four pickles and two salad options.
Pineapple Halwa, Kesar Pista Sancha Ice Cream, Amba Roti, Paan and Mukhwaas
Owner Avinash Bhatia gets the reaction he's hoping for - our gaping mouths. "Bohri food has always been close to my heart, as I grew up with friends from the community. I sourced traditional recipes from them," says the Sindhi businessman, who hails from a family of property developers. He also has experience of running the family-owned Club 9 at Pali Hill, which replaced Hungry Bunny, a cosy café that his father had launched back in 1990s.
A community call
The Tha'l Co offers à la carte and set menus, the latter in the form of thaals for a solo diner and even a family. They also take catering orders. "The family thaal feeds seven guests. It includes mains and desserts too," he says as he ushers us to a low-seating table with seat cushions. It represents the community's traditional dining set-up where a family sits on the floor around a common thaal. However, we opt for the table-and-chair set up, considering we're in for the long haul.
(Clockwise from left) Bheja Hara Masala, Nalli Nihari, Paya Soup, Tandoori Roti, Dal Chawal Palidu, Pizza Naan and Bohri Biryani (centre)
After the traditional passing of salt and a bite of sodhanu (rice and sugar to start the meal), we dig into Dhungareli Tangdi, wrapped in foil and cooked in coals. The dish stars fall-off-the-bone chicken legs cooked in creamy gravy with a distinct crumbly cheese texture that teases our palate.
Then, we move on to fried-till-crisp Chicken Kheema Samosas and Chicken Shahi Roll, where crumb-fried barrels burst with meaty, cheesy flavours. They're washed down with refreshing, watermelon-flavoured Bir Soda, as integral to the community as Pallonji's is to Parsis.
For veggies too
The vegetarian options include Soya Chaaps, where the mock meat is slathered with a makhani-like gravy. We also enjoy the salads - Kokam Bateta, featuring well-cooked potatoes hidden under a thick, tangy-spicy coating, and Kachumber laced with silken, mashed brinjal.
The highlights are the melt-in-the-mouth minced lamb Galawati and the skewered Seekh Kebabs, where the soft and juicy mutton packs in robust, spicy flavours.
Dance to DCP
The mains include Nalli Nihari, Bheja Hara Masala, Bohri Biryani and the vegetarian DCP aka Dal Chawal Palidu. The Nihari wins us over with its soft and succulent lamb cooked in a well-spiced stock with a hint of fennel seeds that we relish with fluffy Pizza Naan. The Bheja Hara Masala scores for its creamy coriander-based gravy, whose flavours are soaked in by goat meat.
The dum-cooked Bohri Biryani, with succulent chunks of mutton and potatoes, turns out to be a lighter version of its north Indian sibling. It's long rice grains are laced with the right amount of whole spices and slight tang from the curd. A smoking-hot piece of coal on a bed of mildly flavoured rice and lentils takes the modest DCP to the next level. The flavour lingers in our mouth long after we've tucked into the comforting dish with Palidu, a drumstick stew tempered with cumin and thickened with Bengal gram flour.
By the time we reach the desserts - the rich Pineapple Halwa and creamy Sancha (hand-churned) ice cream in kesar pista flavour - we feel too stuffed to move, realising the true meaning of food coma.
Opens: Next week, 12 pm to 3.30 pm; 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm
At: Pooja Society, Chinchpokli Road, Bandra West
Call: 8956988888
Cost: '786 (single thaal), '986 (per person for family thaal)
