Mumbai food: Savour authentic Koli cuisine at a fisherwoman's home

Koli food

A long time ago, long before Mumbai was even Bombay, there existed a community that called the swampy islands home. They were the Kolis, the fisherfolk who still occupy pockets of the city and set out before the crack of dawn to earn their daily bread. Undoubtedly, fish is intrinsic to the food the Kolis eat. All this, yet we know more about Malvani or Gomantak cuisine, both imports from other parts of the state.

Also read - Mumbai food: Knowing the Gomantak curry's origins, best places to have it

A household from Versova Koliwada is out to change this. This weekend, you get the opportunity to savour traditional Koli cuisine, at their home, no less. The enterprising Harsha Tapke, along with her sisters and their mother Rajini, has tied up with Authenticook to host a Dine with Kolis experience.

What differentiates Koli dishes from other Maharashtrian preparations? "We use a home-made spice blend in our food, which comprises five different types of chilli, garam masalas, turmeric and coriander," says Tapke, who is in her 40s, and still a hands-on fisherwoman. This blend is made in large quantities in the summer months and is meant to last the family an entire year.
Seafood, without doubt, is the big pick. The menu offered by the family is simple yet elegant, one that gives you a glimpse into the community's daily meals.

Harsha Tapke (extreme right), her mother and sisters (all in front row) say they love having guests over

To begin with, you're served Karandi Bhajia, which are fritters packed with fresh tiny prawns and crunchy onions. The mains feature an assortment of dishes - Bharleli Paplet (pomfret stuffed with spicy masala and fried), Surmai/Rawas Kalvan (Koli style gravy made with the catch of the day), and piping hot bhakris (flatbread) and bhaat (steamed rice) to mop it all up with. Of course, no seafood meal in the city could be complete without the famous Bombay Duck, coated in spices and fried till it attains a lovely crunch. For dessert, indulge in some Khobrya Cha Khirapat (a sweet dish made of roasted coconut and mawa), and wash the whole meal down with a glass of refreshing Sol Kadi. Through the meal, you will find that while Kolis are certainly fond of coconut, it doesn't find as important a place here as it does in other coastal cuisines. Along the way, you will also learn other differences that set this fare apart from other Maharashtrian preparations.

Tapke says, "We invite people to our homes because we want them to learn about our food and our culture." With such scrumptious food on offer, who could resist?