Meeting of flavours

Cold mezze platter

A wall of colourful plates, which adorns the bar at Sette Mara, the newest addition to Lower Parel's thriving F&B scene, bodes well for the eatery that opens today, amid the easing of lockdown restrictions. It's a hat-tip to the Greek custom of plate-smashing, believed to ward off evil spirits, hailing new beginnings. But fear not, there won't be any flying crockery. Instead, what the Middle East-themed restaurant promises is a culinary trail across Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Morocco, Lebanon, Persia and Georgia.

The space is divided into a lounge, bar and dining area

Housed at Level 9M of St Regis Mumbai, Sette Mara is helmed by chef Reuben Bhate, inspired by his experience while working at a Greek restaurant. Counting on the promise of a fully vaccinated staff, when we step out to check out the place, we find that it unravels as a lounge, bar and a dining space. Intricate Lebanese lanterns lend the bar an intimate, Instagram-friendly vibe, its sunset saffron hues reflected in the dozen different varieties of negroni that are on offer. If the vermouth-campari-gin cocktail is your poison, we recommend going for the woody, vanilla notes of the 60-day oak barrel-aged negroni and the truffle-scented crystal truffle negroni (both Rs 800) with campari caviar.

Sette Mara boasts of a range of negronis. Pics/Bipin Kokate

As opposed to the dimly lit lounge-bar area, 50 shades of blue and white bring the dining space alive, under an eye-catching constellation-inspired compass on the ceiling. While we sip on the colour-coordinated, refreshing vodka, ginger ale and cucumber-based sea green Sette Mara aromatic spritz (Rs 800), the cold mezze arrives. The extensive menu boasts of options from cold and hot mezzes, which pair well with the fluffy pitas and toasty lavash options on offer. While the garlic labneh and tomato-infused hummus Beiruti were par for the course, what stood out was the creamy root hummus with crispy beet and taro chips, and muhammarah (Rs 650 each). Everybody loves a good falafel, but we urge you to try the falafel arayes (Rs 825), a stuffed Lebanese bread, instead, or the lahm rakakat (Rs 800) - delightfully crispy rolls of pulled lamb with a lip-smacking pul biber labneh. And if you're keen to start on a sweet note, try the honeyed, cheesy pistachio crusted fried feta (Rs 800).

Falafel crusted seabass

Mangal, the ritual of barbecuing with friends and family, also finds a spot on the menu. While the Beirut style jawaneh (chicken wings) (Rs 800) fails to make a mark, the charred aubergine (Rs 1,025) is sure to lure baingan haters too. Wash these down with the bitter-sweet passionfruit negroni (Rs 800) that comes with a Boomerang-friendly bubble. Among the large plates, we recommend the innovative falafel-crusted seabass (Rs 2,250). The lightness of the harissa lemon caper butter sauce brings out the best of the fish that has a crispy falafel crust. The Israeli cous cous (Rs 1,250) with wild mushrooms, labneh and sumac is a comforting option, as is the aromatic braised chicken maqluba (Rs 1,950).

Turkish chocolate and cheese brownie

Since baklava options are many in Mumbai, we suggest you wrap up your meal with the sweet-and-savoury Turkish chocolate and cheese brownie that has a spicy aftertaste (Rs 550). For a city that still swears by shawarma when it comes to Middle-Eastern food, we're happy to say marhaba (hello) to Sette Mara's extensive offerings.

On: Opens today, 12 pm to 4pm
At: St Regis, 462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel