Food: South Mumbai restaurant Zaffran to get a global makeover

TheâÂu00c2u0080Âu00c2u0088floods have receded and the sun is shining brightly overhead. Sweat beads trickle down our brow as our taxi manoeuvres past bikers, trucks and pedestrians who seem to give two hoots about the incessant honking. Our journey ends outside Sitaram Building, where, in the past, many of us have stumbled in and out of Zaffran in the wee hours, looking to feed our hungry selves after a night of partying.

The restaurant was the brainchild of two friends, Chetan Sethi and Munib Birya, who met at Sophia College during their hotel management course in 1996. At 23, they pooled in finances to open a Mughlai restaurant at Crawford Market in 2003. "It was not even considered close to the hip neighbourhoods like Colaba," laughs Sethi, who mans the kitchen.

Mutton Pepper Kulcha

On the plus side, rent was low and the duo realised that there would be no dearth of clients, with shoppers, traders and office-goers thronging the area every day. "There were only Irani and Udupi restaurants in the neighbourhood back then," reminisces 38-year-old Sethi , confessing that they were initially met with resistance. "Even friends weren't ready to come to Crawford Market. Then, people started ordering in. We always believed that people will go anywhere for good food," Birya says, finishing the thought.

Fourteen years later, they are ready to launch version 2.0 of Zaffran, paving the way for Ustaadi, which will serve global fare, in addition to Indian cuisine. Spread across 7,000 sq ft with separate smoking and non-smoking sections, it also houses a kids' play area, with toys, a jungle gym and cartoon films on offer. At the table, the little ones will be served in colourful, kid-friendly plates, and a special Chhote Ustaad menu is also in the pipeline.

Kacha Keri Margarita

"We transitioned without shutting the restaurant. Zaffran has been a flag-bearer of wholesome Mughlai and North Indian cuisine; now, we are ready to offer more," explains Birya, who handles the front office and operations.

Old gives way to new
Climbing up two flights of wooden stairs, we walk into the familiar underground den-like space, with walls that mute the noise of the market outside and create a cosy cocoon. Warm yellow light from rustic bronze chandeliers sets the mood, highlighting select walls that have a story to tell. "While we believe in the mastery of art, we are celebrating 'ustaadi' across fields like photography, music and fashion. One section celebrates the mastery of writing with books adorning the walls," says Birya.

Balinese Spiced Banana Leaf Basa

Warning: the menu is vast, divided into five sections -- All-Day Breakfast and Pizza, Indian, Asian, Cosmopolitan, and Desserts. We begin our meal with Pulled Raan Bao (R375), Butter Chicken Bao (R325) and Balinese Spiced Banana Leaf Basa (R395). The Pulled Raan Bao is spicy, cushioned between a sweet bao that takes the sting out of the chilli. The Butter Chicken version is milder and flavourful.

We unwrap the basa to find it swimming in a coconut curry spiced with Balinese yellow chilli. The steamed fish is creamy, and melts in the mouth. Skilfully executed, the dish is simple, authentic flavours. We also recommend a new entrant in the Indian section, the South Indian-style Mutton Pepper Kulcha (R165), which comes oozing with butter and is garnished with rocket leaves that give it a crunchy finish. We wash this down with a Kacha Keri Margarita (R175).

Belgian Chocolate Roll

For the main course, there is Indonesian Nasi Goreng (R395), which comes with prawn skewers in a green sauce, prawn chips and an egg. Made using jasmine rice, it's a well-balanced dish with the flavours and textures of garlic, ginger, chillies and soy. We savour the slightly fiery aftertaste it leaves on our lips.

The Saffron Mushroom and Asparagus Risotto (R375) is creamy, and the al dente Arborio rice, earthy fungi and sharp saffron make it a delightful combination. We end the meal with a Belgian Chocolate Roll (R195), a gooey chocolate cake that comes covered in a nutty caramel-cracker coating. It immediately brings to mind Cooper's Fudge from Lonavala.

Munib Birya and Chetan Sethi

Although flaunting a new menu, Ustaadi retains Zaffran's thought of offering filling, value-for-money fusion and authentic dishes. "No small plate ever fed a customer," laughs Sethi, confessing that they are looking at taking the brand overseas.

Mistaken identities

Pics/ Suresh Karkera, Tanvi Phondekar

It has been an eventful ride, the duo agrees. Hailing from a five-star hotel background where they had duties chalked out, their biggest challenge was venturing out on their own. But they learned on the job, and managed to create a cult following among young diners. Before signing off, they share an anecdote. "Sometimes, guests would walk in, and on noticing there was a wait, they walked up to us, claiming to know 'Munib' or 'Chetan' personally, and demanding to meet them. They didn't realise they were speaking to exactly Munib and Chetan."