Bandra's newest ingredient-forward eatery packs a nostalgic punch

Pan-seared duck

We remember what Anton Ego - the critic known for his scathing reviews in the animated film, Ratatouille (2007) - said about the "discovery and defence of the new." More importantly, we fondly bear in mind the bite of ratatouille that transported Ego to his boyhood. How tastes cross paths with lasting emotions in our ventral forebrain is a discussion we save for another day. But in this moment - as we soak in the muted tones of Nava in Bandra after stomaching a diverse meal - we can't stop smiling at the thought of baby gondhoraj lemons.

Anchovies in a swamp

As a child, picking up tiny lemons off the backyard felt like courting fresh starts. And now separated by many years, a cocktail called too much drama (Rs 550) took us back to that exercise. "That was precisely the idea behind founding this place. It was meant to return to ingredients that each one of us [including the chefs and staff] has grown up eating," shares Anushka Pathak, its founder. Nava, meaning novel in Marathi, champions dishes where a single component takes centrestage. The other elements voluntarily meet in harmony - as happens with our gondhoraj-infused gin. The punch of green chilli seeds to the sublime lemon-y aroma makes for a playful drink.

Too much drama

The commingling of the classic and contemporary or the weighty and sprightly is reflected on their walls. The curated art highlights Banksy-like elements alongside European styles of architecture. We proceed to three dishes from chef Akash Deshpande's seasonal tasting menu. Nungu, inspired by dried and pressed flower lockets, looks the part. Made from cured ice apple and accompanied by an elephant fruit skin chutney, it gives you a zesty bite. We take a second helping of the chutney that is sweet and sour, and a little spicy, too.

Vegetarian bone marrow

The vegetarian bone marrow - that Deshpande has invented after sucking on a mutton bone for hours just to get the right texture - is creamy, but doesn't sit heavy on the palate. The cheesy marrow that's served on a bed of white pebbles contains herbed butter but no shred of cheese. However, anchovies in a swamp leans towards becoming our favourite from the tasting menu. What can be more Mumbai than the green chutney these anchovies have been dunked in! One bite and we're happy about the burst of flavours, which thankfully doesn't leave behind an astringent aftertaste.

The space hosts a partly open seating area for diners to soak in the sights of Bandra. Pics/Pradeep Dhivar

The main dining area overlooks the bar on one end; on the other, it opens up to a semi-al fresco section that's ideal for smokers. The nicest addition however is the glass parting that keeps diners hooked to the drama in the kitchen. We can see a dish being prepared and assembled over frowns and smiles. From their a la carte menu, we dig into the chicken liver pate (Rs 550). It has raspberry glaze that mimics our marble table-top and comes with a tray full of housemade baguette. The finely ground liver feels more comforting than a fluffy dollop of cream.

Tadgola aka Michelangelo's David

Their lobster (Rs 1,150) and duck (Rs 1,100) put us in a spot. It's hard to pick a preferred main between these two dishes, as we equally like the chorizo-spiced beurre blanc in the first and the gondhoraj lemon gastrique, red wine and blackberry au jus in the second. We wonder if the duck is served medium rare to everyone. Deshpande notes, "We will ask our diners about their specifications."

The starry night by Vincent Van Gogh

We are just about wrapping our head around the seamless confluence of local elements and European cooking techniques, when our heart stops at an edible art destination. We are served two desserts that are too pretty to destroy. One is tadgola - fashioned after Michelangelo's David (just the head; R850) and the other is called the starry night by Vincent Van Gogh (Rs 850). The latter stands out for its jasmine notes but the former steals the show for layering up a juicy ice apple in a head full of mousse. This place wears art on its plate.

Nava
On: Opens today; 11 am to 4 pm; 7 pm to 1.30 pm
At: Above The Daily, Bandra West
Cost: Chef's tasting menu at Rs 3,150 (vegetarian); Rs 3,550 (non-vegetarian)