Mumbai food: This SoBo restaurant is a treat for vegetarians

Vegeterian food continues to be a big draw in South Mumbai. This trend is on full display when we drop in at Tantra. The eatery, which is awaiting its liquor licence is still testing waters in the neighbourhood by serving less than half of its original menu (as our attendant informed us) and is still running to full capacity. The interiors take us back in time - high ceilings and marble flooring are reminiscent of when we went for family dinners with simple menus, and the banter of patrons would merge with either ghazals or light classical music in the background.

Pav Bhaji Shorba

The menu will bring you right back to the present, with many dishes falling inside the bracket of 'food with a twist'. One such dish that we start our meal with is Pav Bhaji Shorba (Rs 185). It piques the pav bhaji lover in us, and we are happy with the outcome. The dish manages to retain the balance of flavours found in the bhaji version, while presenting it in a smooth shorba-style consistency.

Kothimbir Vadi Cheese Rolls

The next two rejigged dishes don't meet the same expectations - the Kothimbir Vadi Cheese Rolls (195) have a generous stuffing of the Maharashtrian snack but are too oily. The feta is missing in the Feta Ghugra (Rs 175). Both dishes fail to include dips as promised on the menu.

The Zafrani Paneer Gravy (Rs 315) is a fine blend of sweet and spicy flavours, and works well with Stuffed Kulcha (Rs 85) and Tandoori Paratha (Rs 65). We enjoy the dish in the company of the Tulsi Narangi (Rs 225) juice, which is refreshing, thanks to notes of basil. On the other hand, the traditional Moong Dal Khichdi (Rs 195) is a huge let down. We hope Tantra irons out its teething problems soon to build a patron base or else it might be just another veggie experiment gone stale.

TIME: 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm
AT: Kapur Mansion, Hughes Road.
CALL: 23682020

Review
FOOD Can do better
AMBIENCE Average
SERVICE Regular
COST Pricey
VERDICT