The Guide Restaurant Awards 2019: Iranis win at mid-day awards

Every city has spaces that have, over the years, become more than just restaurants. They're like little museums of unwritten history, archiving the city's journey through old chinaware, faded signboards and staff that has probably been around for as long as the establishment. Spaces that leave regulars despondent when they shutter, almost as if they have lost one of their own.

Mumbai has its distinct culinary heritage, represented in part by corner-side cafés run by the Irani Zoroastrians and Muslims who made this city their home in the early 1900s. At this year's The Guide Restaurant Awards 2019 presented by mid-day, we celebrate the culinary contribution of this community by honouring 10 surviving cafés. Unique to Mumbai, these Irani cafés have fought inflation, the fast food invasion and a future generation that would rather pick a professional degree over manning a family establishment at low profits. Back in Iran, the Zoroastrians and Muslims, celebrate the onset of spring with the festival of Navroze (new day) on March 21. In Mumbai, it's a day typified by feasting around family.

Six of the 10 winners of this coveted award, discuss what Navroze means to them and the signature dishes to try at their cafes.

Byculla Restaurant and Bakery

Don't forget to try: Mutton pattice
"Since Navroze is a holiday, we keep the shop closed and enjoy ourselves at home. After offering prayers, we relish a feast of kheema and falooda," says Darius Ferzandi, owner. "At night, we have a glass of beer or a peg of whisky and then, off to sleep," he jokes. The best dish here is the mutton pattice (Rs 18).

At: Alexandra Terrace, Byculla Station, Byculla East.
Time: 8 am to 11 pm
Call: 23727375

Cafe Dela Paix

Gustad Dinshaw

Don't forget to try: Egg akuri
Gustad Dinshaw, owner of the 80-year-old café in Girgaum, tells us, "Navroze is the augment of spring and we worship fire, so it's mostly about getting together and offering prayers. We lay out the sofrah table each year and look forward to the rituals." The top selling dish at this café is the humble egg akuri (Rs 30).

At: 7, Shanker Seth Road, Avantikabai Gokhale Street, Opera House, Girgaum.
Time: 10 am to 10 pm
Call: 23824384

Cafe Colony

Don't forget to try: Mutton biryani
For Mirza Mohammed Nazariyan, owner Aga Nazariyan's son, Navroze is all about celebrating togetherness. "The festival is synonymous with happiness and a time for our family to come together," Mirza tells us, adding that while the mutton biryani (Rs 280) is a crowd pleaser, it's his personal favourite, too.

At: Road 1, Shrikanth Lodge, near Tilak Bridge, Hindu Colony, Dadar East.
Time: 6 am to 10.30 pm
Call: 24142321

Cafe Excelsior

Mutton cutlet gravy

Don't forget to try: Mutton cutlet
"A different animal or bird is associated with every new year. This year, it's white pig," explains Ardeshir Maskoori, owner of one of the most popular Irani cafés in the city, which completed a century last month. "It's very difficult for me to pick one favourite dish, but if I had to, I would suggest the mutton cutlet [Rs 300 dry; Rs 320 with gravy]," he says.