Mumbai food: Dine like a king at this new Rajasthani restaurant in Lower Parel

Don't be misled by the name. Talaiva has nothing to do with Rajinikanth. Instead, the place gets its name from the Talaibagh Palace in Amer, which has now been converted into a heritage hotel. When we get to the restaurant, Nidhishwar Singh Bika, 21, requests us to step outside for a look at the signage, which has a golden falcon at the back. The woodwork facade depicts the rising sun. A Ganesha idol and a curtain waterfall greet us as we re-enter. "The sun is a sign of our Suryavanshi clan, the falcon is a symbol of protection, and a flowing waterbody evokes positivity," says Nidhishwar, who belongs to the family behind this establishment.

Junglee Maas. Pics/Rane Ashish

Interestingly, he calls the main dining area Culinary Kothi. The swanky golden-finish bar has been designed by Shatbi Basu. An enclosed durbar will also serve sheesha, we are told. The tour ends with us meeting the senior Bika, Jaideep Singh, whose lineage goes back to Rao Bikaji, founder of Bikaner. He shares a story about Amer, "The only way to enter Jaipur was through a narrow gateway passage surrounded by Aravalli mountains. A kothi stood next to it, which was destroyed due to poor maintenance after the de-recognisation of princely states. [I] created a replica of Maharaja Ganga Singhji's shikar badi at that very spot, which became dilapidated after it was used to house Japanese prisoners during World War II."

Wild Mushroom and Thyme-Scented Samosa

The junior Bika adds, "The restaurant is an extension of my family history and offers Rajputana and British Raj cuisine." As we chat, the server walks in with a platter of Uttar Pradeshi Nawabi Galouti Kebab. "This recipe came into our family after a marriage between kingdoms," he reveals. The Beetroot Galouti (Rs 300) is lightly spiced, while the Mutton Galouti (Rs 360) is more intense and better marinated. "My mother has a diary of 500 khansama recipes, some of which are on the menu," Nidhishwar says. Jaideep Singh points out that Rajputana cuisine has a British touch as well. "When the British came here, they influenced education, food and everything else. They even introduced the concept of bed tea," he tells us.

Beetroot Galouti

As we bite into Samosas Stuffed With Wild Mushrooms (Rs 250), we are told, "While the queen enjoyed her risotto, Lord Mountbatten enjoyed meatball curry." From the bar, we try the Royal Kasturi Old Fashioned (Rs 500). The server sprays a saffron scent on it as a garnish. We love the Fig Rosemary Rum Old Fashioned (Rs 500), which is an excellent blend of dark rum and bitters. The main course begins with Junglee Maas (Rs 450).

Rosemary Rum Old-Fashioned

"While Laal Maas is a slow-cooked preparation with spices, mathania chillies and kachri (a dried fruit found in the desert), Junglee Maas involves tossing ingredients into a pot during a hunt or war. This dish is what the British called Mutton Stew," says Jaideep Singh. Don't underestimate the watery stew. It has a pungent, rustic punch with a sweet finish. The Gatta Curry (Rs 320) is a healthier version of the ghee-laden one we once had in Jaipur. But we are happy to find that Gajar ka Halwa (Rs 230) has been slow-cooked in milk for at least a few hours.

Jaideep Singh Bika with son Nidhishwar at Talaiva

Talaiva also serves a comfort menu, but we hope it sticks to its efforts to give palatial cuisine the focus it deserves. Otherwise, it might end up as just another standalone serving everything under the sun.

TIME 12 noon to 1 am
AT: Third floor, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel.
CALL: 33956030