Mumbai food: Relish batata vadas, misal pav at this famous Dadar eatery

Mama Kane

On a rainy evening, we navigate through a crowded flower market near Dadar station and make our way to Mama Kane's Swatcha Upahar Griha, located under the bustling flyover. The modest but roomy vegetarian eatery, serving Maharashtrian snack and lunch options is dotted with patrons, chatting over a cup of tea and piping hot Potato Vadas, a star on the menu, served with a dry garlic chutney.

Misal Pav

The size of the vada astounds us. Unlike other joints where the batata vada can easily get squished between a pav, this one resembles a cricket ball, and a pair can easily fill up a quarter plate. "Earlier, they were one-and-a-half times larger because we would serve only one per plate aur usse pet bharna chahiye. However, many wouldn't be able to finish it and so, we reduced the size," shares 50-year-old Dilip Kane, about the ubiquitous Mumbai snack, introduced on the restaurant menu back in the 1930s, maybe at a time when it was even unheard of.

Potato Vada with garlic chutney

"I am not sure if my great-grandfather (Narayan Vishnu Kane) was the first person to introduce it in Mumbai, but he was definitely one of the first, and it was his own recipe. We still use the same proportions for ingredients and the technique," says the low-profile fourth-generation owner, as we take a bite of the deep-fried golden delicacy, lost in the comforting flavours of richly spiced potato-coriander filling and a crispy, thick coating. Little surprise then that about 300 plates of Potato Vada are sold daily. The menu also features varieties like Misal Pav, Kothimbir Vadi, Aluvadi (a colocasia leaf roll), Sabudana Khichdi and Thalipeeth along with Sandwich and a range of beverages.

Kothimbir Vadi

Hitting a century
In 1910, Narayan Vishnu Kane migrated from a village in Konkan to Mumbai, after wrapping up a seasonal business of making Ganesh idols at Pen in the Raigad district. He opened a shack on Tulsi Pipe Road, offering tea, coffee, bhajiya, Aluvadi, and chiwda, mainly to labourers, who worked in nearby areas. Over a decade later, Kane bought a space in a newly constructed Smriti Kunj, the current address of the 106-year-old eatery, one of the oldest surviving restaurants in the city. "Previously, the eatery was called Dakshin Brahmananche Swatcha Upahar Graha. In 1930s, it was changed to Mama Kane because his nephews would call him mama. Running the restaurant was difficult in the 40s because of World War II. Many people fled the city," recalls Kane, adding that until the 40s, the women of
the house would cook in the kitchen.

Third-generation owner Ramkrishna Kane (left) mans the billing counter of Mama Kane's Swatcha Upahar Griha started in 1910 by Narayan Vishnu Kane (in garlanded photograph). Pics/Sneha Kharabe

Ek rice plate
Kane senior's son, Shankar Narayan, who joined the business in the 1950s, was instrumental in introducing the Rice Plate, a vegetarian lunch meal existing on the menu till date. Featuring a portion of rice, chapatis, two types of vegetable, dal, buttermilk and a sweet (mainly shrikhand), the lunch plate was available at '5 until 1985. Today, a full meal is priced at '85 while a half-one costs '65. "We have always been a common man's hotel. The thali was a boon for mill workers and hawkers, who would come to Dadar from as far as Vasai. We had also introduced items like Sheera-Puri, Kande Pohe and Puri Bhaji for them," smiles Kane. His grandfather also added South Indian varieties like Idli, Medu Vada Sambar and Dosa to woo the community that migrated to the neighbourhood.

The minimally furnished, spacious eatery

Apart from daily commuters, the Dadar landmark also hosted personalities like Marathi writer PuLa Deshpande, Shiv Sena leader Manohar Joshi, Bollywood actor Govinda and Marathi actors, who would drop by for a quick bite of Misal Pav or thirst quencher Piyush. Back in 1950, the restaurant was also used as a set for a popular black-and-white Marathi film, Lakhachi Goshta, directed by the prolific Raja Paranjpe.

While most of the menu has been a constant since the 1970s, a few months back, the owners removed the Dosa varieties. "It is difficult to find enough staff, so, we cannot cope with a vast menu, especially during festivals," confesses Kane. With a staff strength of 35, the restaurant witnesses a daily purchase of ingredients from the Dadar market. Items like Puran Poli and raw mango sherbet make a seasonal appearance. Meanwhile, a part of the restaurant has been converted into a hall to host private functions.

What the future holds
While the progeny - his father, Kamlakar, uncles Ramkrishna and Mukund Kane and his elder brother, Shridhar - currently manages the restaurant, the Kanes have also diversified their interest. For instance, his father Kamlakar, armed with a degree from Sweden, was appointed as a chief programmer with Tata Institute of Fundamental Research (TIFS) in the 1960s, while his elder brother, an M-Tech from IIT dabbles into software consulting. "I was a chartered accountant but couldn't manage both, so, now I only run the restaurant," he says. When we ask for the secret behind the thriving landmark, he justifies, "You get Maharashtrian food at very few places, that too, affordable fare. Plus, this food is ideal in Mumbai's climate, as opposed to Punjabi or Chinese, which cannot be consumed every day." As an afterthought, he adds, "I would like to make the restaurant air-conditioned and add other cuisines to the menu too."