Mumbai Food: New SoBo cafe serves healthy versions of cuisines from across India

Chicken brown rice biryani

In the last few years, we've seen how the F&B landscape in the city has gradually shifted its focus to rediscovering Indian cuisine. The move can be noticed in a pub that serves fries sprinkled with gunpowder masala or a fine-dine menu that features feta ghugra.

Mutton galouti on a mini kuttu bread

With India being the buzzword, it seemed apt for indigenous retail chain Fabindia to open Fabcafe in the city. The store is located in a new building, with an international clothing giant on the ground floor and their store next door, with several shoppers from both the stores dropping by for a quick bite when we visit. The ambience can best be described as quintessentially Fabindia with hand- printed cushions on wooden furniture, floral flooring and artsy framed illustrations of desi ingredients on the walls. The menu is well balanced, with options for those keen to relax over a cup of coffee or an all-day breakfast special, or for a full-fledged multiple-course dinner. Several dishes offer the options of going dairy- and gluten-free, and contain no added sugar or maida.

Chicken Chettinad

We start with coastal coconut soup with a Fabcafe twist ('235) and mutton galouti on a mini kuttu bread ('445). The soup is rich in texture and has the perfect curry- style flavour for a warm winter meal, but tastes surprisingly similar to flavours from an instant noodles brand. The galouti kebabs are cooked perfectly; the meat is delicately spiced and the kuttu bread adds an earthy flavour to the kebab. Keen to cool things off with a beverage, we order a blueberry green tea smoothie ('275), which is underwhelming with the otherwise flavourful berry unable to pull the drink to the finish line.

Coastal coconut soup with a Fabcafe twist

The chargrilled sarda with feta, walnuts and tulsi dressing ('370) is the perfect example of getting the best of simple ingredients. The grilled sarda has a subtle smokiness and its juiciness works well to pull together the greens and feta. The highlight is a mix of the refreshing tulsi dressing with a sweet addition of the jaggery dressing. The portions for the rest of the meals aren't justified for their high pricing, but this salad makes for a filling meal.

Chargrilled sarda with feta, walnuts and tulsi dressing

For the mains, we call for the Lakhnavi cashew mutton korma ('495) to be parcelled but are given the chicken Chettinad (470) instead. Thankfully, the coconut curry is flavoursome. Our second mains, chicken brown rice biryani ('475) has a heady fragrance of saffron and the salan served with it enhances the flavour. We love the subtle floral notes of kewra in the dish.

In the mood for a sweet something, we order a vegan coconut rabri tart ('310) with fresh fruits. The dessert is nearly frozen and so we can't savour its flavours, but it tastes better after it thaws. Fabcafe's menu is a delight, but they need to pay attention to every detail to justify their high pricing.

Time: 8.30 am to 10.30 pm
At: Fabcafe, Le Palazzo Tower, August Kranti Marg
Call: 33951522

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