Mumbai Food: Chef Sanjana Patel experiments with savoury flavours

(Clockwise from top left) Sakura, Tout Chocolate, Jardin and Paris Brest. Pics/Bipin Kokate

"Let's begin with the dessert dégustation," says chef Sanjana Patel as she sharpens the edge of a knife. On cue, we shift our attention from an intriguing installation - a number of hands protruding from the wall, engaged in techniques that go into making confectionary - to an inviting platter laid out in front of us. We are seated under the warm glow of exposed light bulbs and lamps designed like bowl gardens at La Folie Lab's latest outpost that opens in Kamala Mills tomorrow.

Harnessing her expertise with the knife from her years at Le Cordon Bleu, Patel goes on to dissect the beautiful, pale green Jardin (Rs 205; French: garden) to reveal various layers hidden within its foliage. A medley of flavours plays on our taste buds as bits of crumbly orange Madeleine cake give way to tangy Greek yoghurt mousse laced with grapefruit and orange-jasmine tea compote.

Sanjana Patel

French kissed, we move on to the blush-hued Sakura (Rs 210) that brings in a whiff of Japan through its cherry blossom tea. We savour its zest that combines with berry compote and marzipan berry cake. Our dessert trip continues with two more chocolate desserts - Tout Chocolate and Paris Brest. These are part of an overhauled dessert menu, a first since the pâtisserie opened in 2014.

Considering Patel's expertise in the area, each is expectedly delectable. However, it is the savoury items that intrigue us. Unlike the Bandra outpost, which offers only all-day breakfast options, here, we spot sandwiches, light eats and pre-plated mains, a separate Jain menu, as well as a nitro coffee bar. Here are some of the best picks.

OPENS: June 8, 8 am to 12 am
AT: Unit no. 10, Trade World B, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel.
CALL: 9699993350

Butter Poached Garlic Prawn Roll
Sponge-soft and warm, the brioche roll heaves with tender, fresh and buttery prawn spirals speckled with a lovely crumble of roasted garlic. However, what elevates the dish is a delish lemon-parsley sauce that arrives separately and is poured over the prawns.
COST: Rs 360

Spiced Chicken Mille Feuille
The khari-like squares, so flaky and delicate that it's difficult to even transfer them onto our plate, explode in our mouth with spicy flavours of succulent meat laced with a tangy pineapple salsa and topped with fried-till-crisp threads of sweet potato fries.
COST: Rs 280

Fettuccine Cacio E Pepe
Hand rolled and perfectly al dente, the creamy fettucine packs in umami mushroom flavours and comes drizzled with truffle oil. An addition of two bacon crisps and we feel we've found a cure for those soon-to-set monsoon blues.
COST: Rs 380

Quinoa Falafel
We eye this dish with trepidation, wondering how a quinoa version of the falafel would taste. However, we soon realise our fears were unfounded. Packed with black and red quinoa, the flavours of the baked falafel camouflage the coarse grains. It's lighter than the chickpea version. The accompanying hummus with orange zest as well as a light turmeric dressing add a slight tang to the dish while crisp lavash sticks (again, made in-house) make for a nice munchie.
COST: Rs 230