Mumbai Food: City eateries are serving tacos with a desi twist

Pic/Shadab Khan

Phulka, but Mexican
The paneer pakoda phulka taco is a dish that's Indian at heart. Head chef Dheeraj Varma has re-imagined the phulka from our childhood and turned it into a taco shell served with Rajasthani condiments including mirch achar, ker sangri, garlic coriander chutney and smoked apple raita, along with chunks of cottage cheese pakodas.

Speaking about the dish Varma said, "Taking familiar flavours and giving them an unconventional and playful twist is our hallmark," adding, "We want to present a wholesome Indian snack in a modern avatar. People are experimenting with tacos both in India and abroad and this is our version."

TIME 6 pm to 1 am (Monday to Friday); 12 pm to 1 am (Saturday); 9 am to 1 am (Sunday)
AT Monkey Bar, Linking
Road, Bandra West.
CALL 26005215
COST Rs 275

Hola Fafda

In hindsight, we realise that using fafda instead of a taco shell is a no-brainer considering the familiar texture and its similarity to hard shell tacos. But not everyone thought of it. "Traditionally, fafda is eaten with jalebi on festive occasions. So, we thought of an innovative way to present the traditional dish that comes with a raw papaya and green chili relish on the side. We modified an age old classic by using an unconventional presentation," says chef Sanjay Kumbhar.

Pic/Ashish Raje

TIME 12 pm to 1 am
AT Chakna By Soam, Flea Bazaar Cafe, Lower Parel
CALL 24970740
Cost Rs 170

It's personal

For chef Nagraj Bhat, the inspiration isn't strictly culinary. His rendition of the classic Mexican dish can be traced back to childhood. "I was a fussy eater as a kid, so to ensure I got my daily dose of veggies my mom used to wrap a parota or a phulka with some vegetables and serve it with my favourite tomato ketchup and potato chips on the side," Bhat shares.

The chef has now created an east ham roast dingri malabari taco which makes use of a soft Malabari parota as the base, ensconced within which is a filling of mushroom tossed in South Indian roast masala. "It is served with thick-cut plantain fries instead of potato chips and beetroot pachadi replaces the tomato ketchup from my childhood," he explains.

TIME 12 pm to 1.30 am
AT London Taxi, Trade Centre, Lower Parel
CALL 30150876
Cost Rs 475

From Mexico to Surat

Pic/Ashish Raje

Thomas Zacharias' penchant for seasonal ingredients and local food is well-known, so it isn't surprising that the restaurant serves taco with an uber desi tadka. "The food here is predominantly India-inspired, showcasing regional dishes made using local and seasonal ingredients. However, some ideas also originate beyond our borders, but are executed within the Indian context," Zacharias said. The desi tacos on their menu uses Gujarati methi thepla as a base instead of corn tortillas.

The topping keeps changing with the restaurant's menu, the chef informs us. But Gujarat isn't the
only inspiration in this dish. "Our Goan pork taco has pulled pork vindaloo with crispy pork skin, while our Lucknowi kali mirch taco is topped with a spinach and green chilli chutney and fermented tomato
kachumber," he tells us.

TIME 12 pm to 12 am
AT The Bombay Canteen, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel.
CALL 49666666
Cost Rs 375

Thepla no taco

The humble thepla is back in an all-new avatar at this bar and restaurant that has re-imagined tacos in a Gujju way. Served hot, the desi tacos are available in veg and non-veg options and the former is served with paneer tikka, cheese dip, and pico de galo salsa enclosed within a methi thepla. In the latter the paneer is replaced with juicy, pulled Kolhapuri chicken.

Speaking about the inspiration behind the dish, chef Michael Mesquita says, "The inspiration was thepla, because who doesn't love binging on them? Also, keeping in mind that we have been experimenting with simple homestyle recipes, the dish helped us bring Indian flavours alive in a modern context, and it has become a favourite."

TIME 11.30 am to 1 am
AT The Union Bar and Eating House, Vashi, Navi Mumbai
CALL 8291981936
Cost Rs 245 (veg); Rs 285 (non-veg)

Simply south

Chef Rakesh Talwar, who drew inspiration from his travels and is serving it with a sprinkle of his own culinary heritage, has taken tacos to another level. "My recent travels in Mexico and my South Indian roots inspired me to create this combination, which in fact works beautifully," he says. Small dosa shells are served with a Mangalorean preparation of pulled chicken sukka masala.

TIME 12 pm to 1.30 am
AT Butterfly High, Jet Airways Godrej, G Block, BKC
CALL 33126730
Cost Rs 260

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