From god's own cauldron

It is strange, both in appalling and encouraging ways, the circumstances that human beings adapt to. While some of us are complaining about traffic, inmates at the Viyyur Central Jail in Kerala have managed to find a new lease of life.

Following a tie-up between the jail authorities and a food aggregator, the inmates are now cooking and serving biryani combos online. And while tasting the food itself might be difficult for Mumbaikars, a peek into Kerala's many versions - that differ from the Awadhi versions we're used to in terms of the use of ingredients like curry leaves and coconut milk - is possible.

This city has several versions available across iconic hole-in-the-wall, casual dining spaces and newly opened delivery haunts. With a delicious sweet-salty raita on the side, which one would you pick from these?

Taste the coast

Sherley and Merlin Joseph are Syrian Christians on a mission to share their love for home-cooked food through their diner in Chakala. One of the treats at this restaurant is the authentic Kerala chicken biryani. "It is unique because the meat is deep fried and then mixed into the rice, which is cooked in coconut milk and laden with dried fruits," Sherley shares.

At Just Kerala, Chakala, Andheri East.
Time 11 am to 12 am
Call 28363919
Cost Rs 350 for chicken (there are seafood, egg and veg, too)

Making merry in Tellicherry

"This is the famed chicken biryani from the coastal spice town of Thalassery, formerly known as Tellicherry in Kerala. Naturally there are quite a few spices that go into this fragrant biryani, but it is still a very delicately spiced dish," says Ratheesh Nambiar, owner of a shack-like eatery in Juhu. A sweet and savoury biryani is available here featuring chicken, Malabar spices and a type of rice known as jeerakashala.

At Nambiar's Kerala Kitchen, Shiv Sagar Building, Juhu.
Time 12 pm to 12 am
Call 62361777
Cost Rs 257 for chicken (there are king fish, veg, prawn and egg variants, too)

A mélange of aromas

Whole spices like green cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bayleaf come together for an aroma-rich gravy, along with tender chicken and vegetables to give you the Kerala Thalassery biryani at this new delivery joint in Versova. The addition of dried fruits makes it a departure from Awadhi-style biryanis, and speaking about it, chef Jintoo Jose says, "Thalassery biryani is a well-balanced dish in that it is not very spicy."

At Madrasam, DN Nagar, Kapaswadi, Andheri West.
Time 12 pm 3.30 pm; 7 pm to 1 am
Call 9427512999
Cost Rs 280

A desi delight

Making a rather controversial claim, restaurateur Dharmesh Karmokar states, "Some evidence shows that rice was grown in India during the Harappan civilisation and Malabar was the spice capital of the world. So, a lot of people in Kerala believe that adding spices to rice started in their state." These claims are open to debate, but the Thalassery biryani at his restaurant is surely yum. It is made with Wayanadan kaima rice, a fat grain native to Kerala.

At Thangabali (Mahim, Bandra and Andheri West).
Time 12 pm to 4 pm; 7 pm to 1 am
Call 24474499 (Mahim)
Cost Rs 460

As authentic as it gets

"Among all the versions of biryani available in Kerala, Malabar dum is one of the best. For it, we fry the chicken and egg separately and then we add them to the masala, finally adding rice to it and letting it slow-cook," Basheer Thottiyam, owner of a regional haunt in Fort, shares. Here, the delicacy comes with a side of raita, pickle and papad. The place also serves interesting versions like duck, gawti and an egg schezwan biryani, too!

At Lalit Refreshment - Taste of Kerala, Pitha Street, Fort.
Time 9 am to 11.30 pm
Call 22044545
Cost Rs 155

Also check out

Around since 1985, this lunch home in Chembur East, which has a huge Malayali population, serves delectable fare. The chicken biryani here is light and maseladar.
At Hotel Sunny, Chembur East.
Call 25223549

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