Aditi Sharma and Bipin Kokate took a 5-hour road trip to find out how villagers in Maharashtra welcome, travel, entertain, feast, harvest. And threaten when izzat is at stake
Aditi Sharma and Bipin Kokate took a 5-hour road trip to find out how villagers in Maharashtra welcome, travel, entertain, feast, harvest. And threaten when izzat is at stake If we had an unkempt, frizzy-haired guide along with us, we would've hummed the Yunhi chala chal rahi number from Swades, and realised what Shahrukh Khan's character must've felt like traversing India's countryside. Just like Mohan Bhargava, we had to cross wide highways, twisting ghats, jowar fields spread out till the edge of the horizon, and bridges so low that the river could easily run over them, to get to our weekend destination. Arya Baug in Katewadi Village, Baramati, is a model project under the Agriculture Tourism Development Corporation (ATDC), where you can experience a slice of farm life over a weekend.
The amenitiesThis is a farmhouse with enough open space to accommodate a group of 50. It resembles a typical village home, with a verandah, garden and backyard. A maximum of 15 can be accommodated at this property, while a bigger group can stay over at the 110-acre farm at Malegaon Village, half an hour away. Arya Baug might not have lavish rooms, but the accomodation is tidy and hygienic. And with a barrage of outdoor activities planned, you'll hardly be "home" anyway.
What to do while you are hereVillage hospitality begins right at the door, with the host garlanding every guest, while a father-son duo play the tutari and and a group of navvari-clad women go about the traditional haldi-kumkum welcome. A quick breakfast later, we leave for a local winery owned by DD Tupe, who started a vineyard here in 1992. Tupe gives a short introduction to the basics of wine-making, answers queries and quickly veers towards a wine-tasting session, which he knows is the most popular.
From the relative sobriety of the wine-tasting session, you go straight into rustic mode. A performance by a Gondhal Mandali (Maharashtrian folk group) awaits you as you get back for lunch. With such a high-energy performance unfolding before you, it's difficult to resist joining in; never mind that you have no clue about the footwork.
The song and dance continues with the Mandali performing the traditional Jagran-Gondhal, as youu00a0 check out the buffet spread. The sumptuous meal is as fresh as it gets, with ingredients picked straight off the farm. The Gondhal Mandali turns the idea of "supper theatre" on its head, with power-packed performances. The last part of the performance includes a village-style stand-up act by the mandali. Make sure you have someone who understands Marathi sit beside you, for this one will leave you in splits.
Before you set off on a village tour, helpers assist you slip into traditional gear, winding cloth turbans around a row of heads. The village panchayat at Katewadi includes an only-women team. The villagers readily share their achievements and ambitions. Here's where the trigger-happy get access to a whole canvas of rural life for a shoot.
Since the harvest season is on, we were treated to freshly picked Hurda (Jowar) on our return. The freshly roasted Jowar cobs (which taste similar to the corn cobs you get along city promenades) are served with three varieties of chutney, masala peanuts and fresh curd.
You shell out: For a day-long tour, you pay Rs 800 per adult and Rs 600 per child. For a one day-one night trip you pay Rs 1,000 and Rs 800, for two days-one night you pay Rs 1,400 and Rs 1,200, and for three days-two nights you pay Rs 2,000 and Rs 1,700.
How to get there
CAR: The best way to get to Arya Baug is in your own vehicle. They can also organise a bus to pick you up from your destination at actual cost. From Mumbai, get to Pune via the Expressway and make your way towards Hadapsar. From here two routes take you to Baramatiu00a0-- the Saswad Route and Patas Route. Both are 100 kms long. The Saswad route passes through famous pilgrim centre Jejuri, so, it's easy to make a quick stopover and pay obeisance.
To book
Call +09226432980 for booking and enquiries or drop in to the Pune office at first floor, Karnik Heritage, lane opposite OBC Bank, FC Road, Deccan Gymkhana, Pune. Log on to: www.agritourism.inKanchan is a popular eatery on the Patas route, that serves piping hot Missal Pav. Unlike the pungent mix we get in cities, this is a lot more flavourful and served with fresh, soft pav. The chivda that forms the base of the dish is crunchy, and because the gravy comes in a separate kadhai, you can have as much as you like. If you are on the Saswad route, locals suggest you stop at Asmita Vada Pav, close to the Saswad ST depot.
Customise your itenarySince ours was a day-long trip, we ended our day with the Hurda party but if you plan to stay longer you could also include bullock cart or tractor rides, a trip to the field where you actually work on the farm, watch how cows and goats are milked or how jaggery is made or simply play village games like gotya, bovhra, surparanbhya and vittidandu. If the trip is an overnight one, the cultural programmes unfold late into the night, making it a different experience altogether. Activities can be added to the agenda according to convenience.
Hot tipTupe claims to be the only wine-maker in India manufacturing Vermouth Rosso, and because he exports most of his wines, this is the best place to pick up your stock at throwaway rates.
