26 August,2010 06:34 AM IST | | Gangadharan Menon
Snorkeling en route at Sindhudurg, fresh home-cooked prawn curry at a homestay, a ride along the Karli river and a boatman waiting to tell you how he survived a Tsunami you have enough reason to visit Devbaug
It was a long drive from Mumbai to Malvan, but the rain-drenched landscape kept us going. We halted overnight at Gajanan Nivas, one of the better homestay options in this fishing village.
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After a sumptuous lunch of Rawas Fry, Prawn Curry and rice prepared by our host Ramesh Mithbavkar, we headed out for the bustling Malvan jetty.
Several country boats stand lined up here, waiting to take you to the floating citadel of Sindhudurg.
Around this fort lies the only marine sanctuary in Maharashtra, with 30 square kilometers of exotic coral reef and stunning marine life. Snorkeling and scuba diving activities are organised here.
We then drove down to Tarkarli, a coastal haven that lies seven kms from Malvan. Twelve years ago, Tarkarli, the most beautiful beach along the Konkan stretch, was waiting to be discovered.
Today, what you discover are piles of plastic left behind by irresponsible tourists on a once-virgin beach.
Looking for bluer pastures, we drove South three kms down lies Devbaug (literally translated as God's own orchard).
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It's a tiny strip of land sandwiched between the unpredictable Karli River and the impatient Arabian Sea.
In places, it measures a mere 50 feet across! Laced with coconut trees, Devbaug will remind you of the backwaters of Kerala, dotted with boatmen repairing their weather-beaten boats, children running along the shores in a state of perpetual joy, and boats ferrying across men and material along the green river.
Village folklore has it that the early settlers landed on these enchanting shores without a name. Enamoured by its beauty, they decided to stay put. But they were vulnerable to the dangers of putting up on a narrow strip between a river prone to floods and a sea used to fury.
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That's when they decided to build a temple of Lord Ganesha. Around this temple, an entire village was laid out, with the belief that the Lord will protect them.
Protect, he did, for a few hundred years, before a tsunami struck the area in 2004.
At the jetty bobbing with colourful boats, we chose our boatman, Vithoba Bhat. Vithoba's rowing followed the rhythm of the sea. As the boat moved from the green river to the blue sea, he narrated the story of how he survived the tsunami.
Fisherman Vithoba Bhat takes a group of tourists from Pune on a boat ride.
Vithoba survived a tsunami that hit Devbaug in 2004.
That day looked like any other day, and Vithoba set off to sea with a group of tourists from Pune. When he reached the edge of the sea, he noticed that the clear blue was turning murky grey.
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As he gazed at the horizon, he noticed a dense black streak stretching across the sky. Like the captain of a ship, he took charge and ordered everyone to lie down on the floor of the boat.
He said he remembered what his father had once told him: if a tidal wave comes towards you, cut through the wave.
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Mustering courage, he revved up the motor and sliced the wave. With the skill of an ace surfer, he cut through the massive wall of water.
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But the impact was so powerful, an eight year-old girl in the group was flung into the turbulent sea.
Shaken, they turned back. When they reached the village, they saw the devastation the tsunami had left.
Every year, for the last six years, this group from Pune makes it a point to visit Vithoba on the anniversary of the tsunami.
But when they thank him for his courageous deed, Vithoba doesn't remember the seven lives he saved; he can't get over the one life he couldn't.
From here, we headed to the still clear waters of Dhamapur Lake, 10 kms away. The secluded beaches of Achra and Kolamb lie nearby, and are worth a visit for their powder-white sands and aquamarine waters.
Make a quick stopover at Sindhudurg, where you can try your hand at snorkeling and scuba diving
Getting There
Take the Mumbai-Goa highway (NH17), turn towards Kasal at Kankavli. Take the state highway to Malvan. Tarkarli is just seven kms away, and Devbaug is another three kms ahead.
The total distance from Mumbai would be around 540 kms.
The nearest railhead is Sindhudurg on the Konkan Railway. You can even take a flight to Goa, and drive down to Devbaug (two hours).
Where to stay: There are a number of resorts to choose from but we suggest you pick
a homestay, and let a family from the Konkan be your host. Most families let out rooms in their homes, providing you with fresh home-cooked meals. Contact Ramesh Mithbavkar on 02365-251401.
Or if you have a bigger budget, you could put up at Devbagh Beach Resort, which is on an island and can be reached by boat. It offers stay in ethnic-style log huts, and tents.
Tariff: Rs 2,550 onwards.
Call: 24042211.
Email: devbagh@nivalink.co.in
When to go: Right now is the best time, since the landscape is lush at the fag end of the monsoon.
