Skincare during a heatwave: How does sunscreen protect your skin?

Cosmetic brands have been marketing sunscreens and products containing Sun Protection Factor (SPF) for far too long, forcing consumers to think about whether they are that necessary to protect our skin from the sun's ultraviolet radiation. Is it that important to use sunscreen lotion? Medics say it is imperative as the climate keeps worsening by the day.

Further, to understand the basics of using sunscreen, Mid-day Online spoke to Dr Rinky Kapoor, Consultant Dermatologist, Cosmetic Dermatologist & Dermato-Surgeon, The Esthetic Clinics. Kapoor recommends that sunscreen lotions should be part of our daily skincare routine regardless of the season.

She says, "Sunscreens are meant to be worn in every weather, in the open skies, and under the roof. Exposure to UVA (ultraviolet rays having longer wavelength) causes premature ageing, wrinkles and uneven pigmentation on the skin. These rays damage the skin. Therefore, round-the-clock protection of the skin is necessary."

Types of sunscreens

Sunscreens are available in the form of lotions, creams, gels and powders. Choosing the right kind of sunscreen is confusing owing to the various kinds available in the market. It is always better to know the basic differences between the common types of sunscreens.

Physical sunscreens are applied on the skin. They are not absorbed by the skin. Such sunscreens contain materials like zinc oxide and titanium oxide that scatter the UV rays before they can enter your skin. However, they leave a light white coating on the surface of the skin. Physical sunscreens are more resistant to water.

Chemical sunscreens are more commonly applied on the skin. They are absorbed by the skin and contain ingredients like avobenzone and octisalate. This type absorbs the UV rays and converts them into heat.

Water-resistant sunscreens are known to protect the skin for about 40-80 minutes (the duration of every brand differs and is mentioned on the packaging)

Broad spectrum sunscreens protect against both types of UV rays, UVA and UVB. These are sunscreens with a minimum SPF of 15 and above.

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Sunscreens offer many benefits

The sun's UV rays damage the collagen and elastin fibres in the skin leading to loss of skin elasticity and the formation of early lines and wrinkles on the skin. Applying sunscreen daily reduces the chances of premature ageing by 24 per cent.

The high exposure of skin to sunlight puts us at risk of skin cancer. Sunscreens are linked to protecting us against skin cancer.

Sunscreens help reduce melanin (the pigment responsible for tanning of skin exposed to sunlight) production under the skin and prevent tanning, thus maintaining the even tone of the skin.

Sunburns affect the quality of the skin and make it more transparent. Wearing sunscreen helps in preventing sunburns.

Sunscreens also help fight dryness and wrinkles, fine lines, crows' feet, and forehead lines at bay.

Invest in the right sunscreen

Kapoor says the label of the sunscreen product should be read carefully before purchasing. She advises using a broad sunscreen of SPF 30 or more in today's conditions. It is an important indicator of the effectiveness of sunscreen. The higher the range of SPF the higher level of protection a sunscreen offers against UV rays. Choosing the right range is essential as it indicates the amount of time a sunscreen will offer protection and when you need to reapply it. It also indicates the time it will take for UV rays to reach the skin. If you are looking for general protection of the skin, then SPF 30 is enough. However, if you have an active lifestyle that requires staying outside for longer durations, then opt for an SPF of 50 or more.

Sunscreens also come with a PA rating which is its Persistent Pigment Darkening reading after 2-4 hours of sun exposure. PA+ indicates protection from medium UV radiation, PA++ indicates moderate protection which is ideal for normal skin, and PA+++ indicates strong protection from the sun. Also, sunscreens that contain fragrances or alcohol in high quantities should be avoided.

Makeup products claiming to have SPF protection cannot replace sunscreens

Many makeup products such as foundations, tinted serums and moisturizers, BB creams, bronzers and concealers claim to contain SPF. While it may seem like a two-in-one benefit, it is a myth. SPF makeup is not a substitute for sunscreen. Make-up products don't contain enough sunscreen to offer the required protection. If you want your foundation to give the benefits of sunscreen, you need to apply 14 times more than the quantity you usually apply. Besides, makeup is not applied as evenly as sunscreen to get sun protection benefits. It also does not matter what the sunscreen is combined with, as it needs to be reapplied every two hours without fail.

Correct application of sunscreen

The right way to apply sunscreen is to use a generous amount of it all over the body before wearing the clothes. Take about a shot glass of sunscreen for the body and a 1-rupee coin worth of sunscreen for your face. Apply on the exposed areas such as ears, nose, feet, hands, neck and even the chest. Do this about 15-30 minutes before stepping out of the house. You must reapply sunscreen every 2-3 hours. If you are using water-resistant sunscreen then reapply as the product suggests.

Sunscreen should ideally be applied all over the body except the private areas. If you don't find the time for that make sure to cover your hands, neck (back of the neck too), face, ears, feet, upper chest, lips and all other exposed parts of the body with sunscreen.

Kapoor says that sunscreens are also makeup friendly. After applying sunscreen on the face and neck, let it sit for 20 minutes before you start applying makeup. This will give the skin time to adjust and still retain the benefits of sunscreen.

If you are buying sunscreen for the first timer, Kapoor suggests sticking to a normal sunscreen that suits your skin type. You can use the sprays and powder sunscreens in the reapplication.

Health risks of using sunscreen

Allergic reactions to sunscreens are very rare, says Kapoor, but they can happen to some people with sensitive skin. These allergic reactions include rashes and itching on the skin because of other components of the product such as fragrances, preservatives, alcohol etc. Sometimes allergies can also happen if you use some medications or topical skin creams under the sunscreens. If you have a chronic skin condition like eczema or dermatitis, your skin might be more prone to allergies from chemical sunscreens or some ingredients in physical sunscreen as well. Make sure you don't use an expired product for your skin be it sunscreens or any other products.

Sunscreens should be used all year round. Throughout seasons, sunrays can penetrate the clouds. Everybody, irrespective of their skin type, complexion and tone, location, age and gender should be using sunscreen daily. For those having a darker skin complexion, avoid using mineral sunscreens as they leave behind a whitish hue which gives a grey cast to the skin. Using tinted mineral sunscreens is a better option.

If you have oily skin then look for non-comedogenic formulas that are water or gel-based. For dry skin, you need a sunscreen that has moisturising ingredients like hyaluronic acids. Children above the age of six months too can use sunscreens. There are specially formulated sunscreens for children that you can buy. Even if you are stepping out just for 10 minutes during the peak daylight hours, sunscreen is mandatory.

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