Dermal fillers are on the rise among young Indians, here's why

Our bodies undergo constant scrutiny through a strict lens. To top it off, we compare our assets with figures who choose knives to attain sculpted beauty standards. Supermodels and actors like Angelina Jolie, Isabella Hadid, Kylie Jenner, Lady Gaga and many more have altered their appearances to submit to the ever-growing pressure on looks. With reach of millions, these celebrities have managed to infiltrate young minds and create a rise in demand for dermal fillers amongst Gen Z and millennials.

In the initial days, the most common filler procedure sought by Gen Z was lips. However, today, there has been a significant rise in the number of cheek and chin fillers. This rise in demand for fillers and facial contours amongst Indian teens can be attributed not only to Western influences but Bollywood and television celebrities equally.

Mumbai-based cosmetic dermatologist, Dr. Rashmi Shetty from Ra Skin & Aesthetics feels that it is dispiriting to see teens changing their facial contour to look more like Western influencers. According to her, Indian teens have beautiful, unique faces with small chins. Be it in pictures of Goddesses at home or on sculptures in various temples. Ancient Indian description of beauty is always depicted with large eyes, a round face, and a small chin. Can you imagine what our world would look like if there are no ethnic differences and we all begin to look alike?

The rise of sculpted beauty standards among Gen Z
With sculpted looks hijacking universal beauty standards, Gen Z and millennials are seeking higher cheekbones, hollow mid-cheeks and a longer chin. Not only does that take away from their ethnic beauty, but also makes them look more mature and older than their true age. Lip fillers do not change the way they look, but cheek and chin fillers are something teens need to put a hold on, says Shetty.

It is often seen in TV shows that actors who are meant to play teens, in reality, are not teens. Instead, they might be in their mid to late 20s representing teens on television soaps. Often young Indian audience looks up to these actors and begins to adopt this perception as the newly accepted standard. They fall for a more chiseled and mature look, which, in Shetty's opinion, needs to be addressed.

Once in a while, Shetty receives mothers who approach her clinic with teen kids claiming that they would like to consider fillers in their lips, chin and cheeks. "However, what these mothers request me to do is advise their teens against it. For a while, I used to put my foot down and just say no. But teens are known to want what they want and if not me, they would seek it elsewhere which has led me to spend more time correcting them. Hence, I make it a point to spend more time in consultation, educating them on the role of the filler. I try to highlight those features that would change and those that wouldn't and which structures would be slightly enhanced."

The purpose of facial fillers and contours
So, what are fillers? They are gel-like substances, mostly made up of Hyaluronic acid that are injected below the skin for enhancing facial contours, restoring volume, smoothening lines and softening creases. While fillers are commonly known as "wrinkle fillers", there are so many more functions associated with them:

1. Smoothening out lines around the nose and mouth
2. Enhancing and restoring volume in cheeks
3. Diminishing vertical lip lines
4. Plumping the lips
5. Improving symmetry among facial features

Fillers can be classified into 4 broad categories:
1. Hyaluronic acid (HA) which is naturally present in the skin. It provides volume and keeps the skin hydrated and supple. Restylane and Juvederm are common HA fillers.
2. Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA) consists of a substance that is present in our bones. These are generally used for deeper wrinkles among adults and the older generation.
3. Poly-L-lactic Acid (PLLA) helps the body create its own collagen. These typically work to smoothen deep wrinkles.
4. Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) comprises collagen in the form of small balls which stay under the skin. They provide volume and keep the skin firm.

Rundown of a facial filler procedure
The filler one seeks depends on individual purpose and needs. One could seek it for flattened lips, or to elongate a round chin or to provide life to shrunken cheeks. Depending upon the need, each filler is then uniquely formulated to carry a certain texture, density, and depth.

When injecting a filler, a numbing cream is usually applied to the area which makes it a painless process. Once the filler is injected, post-care is subjected to the patient on the basis of the procedure they sought. Some might experience a bruising or slight redness which is normal and usually goes away within a week's time. However, in such a case, one needs to reach out to their provider who can recommend rescue creams to treat the same.

The results of fillers emerge almost instantly after the procedure is concluded. There have been times when Shetty has completed fillers on one side of the face and shown the patients the difference in a mirror at that moment. The effect could last either for months or even years.

Necessary precautions while choosing fillers
The only thing to keep in mind while considering fillers is your purpose for investing in them. Fillers are usually considered by women hitting their 30s or 40s to take care of their aging skin. When one is younger, their face is rounder and chubbier, giving them a youthful demeanour. Shetty shares that people should enjoy their natural, youthful skin while it lasts rather than playing around with it too early.

There is nothing as a recovery period from a filler. Fillers have been done on patients who have headed to shoots or look tests right after. Very rarely there is a need for a recovery period if the filler is done well. In the case of lip fillers, there might be slight swelling for a couple of hours which is also extremely rare. If the work is more elaborate, then there might be a light bruise that appears 2 days later and usually fades away within a week.

Sometimes complications can arise while chasing a filler procedure. This happens when the wrong filler is injected or the right injecting technique is not applied. It can also happen if the right plane to inject is not chosen and things go haywire. Therefore, it is important to choose your expert or doctor wisely.

What are the common myths about fillers?
A common myth about facial fillers is that they don't look natural. If done with the right technique, facial fillers can yield aesthetic results and rejuvenate the skin's natural vitality. Another myth circling around fillers is that they need regular touch-ups or that you need to keep investing in them once you do it, which is not correct. If placed right, it anchors your skin and tissues, thus helping you age gracefully.

Another myth based on fillers is that it is an easy procedure or it is just the poke of a needle. The truth is that it is quite complex and can only be administered by a professional expert.

Should Gen Z embark on changing their facial features?
Shetty does not recommend fillers for Gen Z. "Rather than preparing them mentally to embark on this change, we must work towards preparing them to accept themselves for the way they are." We inherit our looks from our parents which is a sign that we belong. Why should one change that to look like someone they're not?

However, if there is a need for an enhancement, then one must consult with the right doctor about what they need, what is their goal and if there is a particular part of the face that genetically does not age gracefully, etc. These are the right kind of questions that should be addressed with a cosmetologist.

Is less more? Do all fillers need touch-ups?
Less is definitely more in terms of fillers. Shetty has had patients who have achieved desired results from their fillers and haven't felt a need to re-touch them in over 5 years. This is because when one engages in too many fillers, they start to become prominent. Recent research has also suggested that a patient who underwent a filler procedure carried on for 22 years without a touch-up or any more fillers. Thus, fillers can last forever.

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