Cold facts about skin icing: Just a fad or here to stay?

Similar to Korean skincare known as ‘Jamsu,' skin icing is emerging as a trendy skincare hack. B-town divas like Deepika Padukone, Katrina Kaif and Tamannaah Bhatia among others swear by it while running us through its benefits, on social media. Skin icing involves gently massaging the face with ice cubes or specialised ice rollers. Proponents of this chilly skincare claim it reduces puffiness, tightens pores and brightens the complexion. But how real are these claims and does skin icing truly deserve a spot in your daily skincare routine?

The real efficacy of skin icing remains a topic of debate among dermatologists and skincare experts. While there is some truth to its benefits - cold temperatures can constrict blood vessels, which might temporarily reduce puffiness and give a more toned appearance - these effects are generally short-lived. To find out about the effectiveness of skin icing, Midday consulted skin experts and dermats who break down for us the science behind skin icing.

What is skin icing?
A skin hack, not so modern, it finds roots in ancient beauty rituals. Empresses and royals from Russia and China reportedly used ice or cold water to keep their skin glowing, believing it to have rejuvenating and anti-aging properties.

Mumbai-based dermatologist Meghna Mour shares, "Skin icing or cryotherapy, leverages the effects of cold temperatures on the skin. In medicine, cryotherapy is used to decrease inflammation and numb pain. When cold is applied to the skin, it causes vasoconstriction, which is the narrowing of blood vessels. This process can help reduce redness and puffiness. Once the cold is removed, the blood vessels dilate or expand, increasing blood flow and potentially brightening the skin."

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In some unconventional beauty hacks, people have used frozen foods like peas or spoons chilled in the freezer as makeshift ice packs for skin icing. These items are often chosen for their ease of use and ability to mould to the contours of the face, providing a quick and accessible way to reduce puffiness and refresh the skin.

On the contrary, Dr Kaushik, from New Delhi states that "while skin icing has garnered a substantial following online, its effectiveness is largely overstated and temporary at best. Its immediate benefits, such as reduced puffiness and a slight tightening of the skin, are fleeting and do not translate to long-term improvements."

The cooling effect of ice can constrict blood vessels, which may momentarily diminish swelling and create a more toned appearance, but these effects quickly dissipate as the skin returns to its normal temperature. He also highlights that the perceived reduction in pore size is purely cosmetic since pores do not actually open and close but can appear smaller when exposed to cold.

Possible benefits of skin icing
Mour lays down the benefits of skin icing:

Reduced puffiness and inflammation: Cold temperatures are known to effectively reduce morning puffiness, especially around the eyes, by minimising edema and fluid retention. This can make the skin look more rested and awake.

Smaller pores: The skin tightens temporarily when exposed to cold, causing pores to contract. This can result in a smoother and finer texture of the skin.
Improved blood circulation: The cycle of vasoconstriction and vasodilation stimulated by cold application enhances blood flow, delivering more oxygen and nutrients to skin cells. This can promote a healthier and more radiant complexion.

Enhanced product absorption: Some believe that skin icing makes the skin more receptive to skincare products applied immediately afterward. The increased blood flow might help active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin.

Skepticism and risks
Skeptics point out that skin icing can potentially cause more harm than good if not done correctly. Prolonged or direct application of ice can lead to skin irritation, redness and even frostbite, especially for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea. "The shock of extreme cold can also damage the skin's natural barrier, leading to dryness and increased sensitivity," shares Kaushik.

Dermatologists advocate for a more balanced approach, emphasising the importance of scientifically-backed skincare routines that include proper cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection. They argue that while skin icing can be a refreshing and temporary fix, it should not replace more effective and sustainable skincare practices.

Drawbacks of skin icing
Short-term benefits: The effects of reduced puffiness and smaller pores are temporary and do not provide long-term solutions for chronic skin issues.
Skin Irritation: Overuse or incorrect application of ice can irritate the skin, causing redness or even frostbite. It is crucial to wrap ice in a towel or cloth and limit the application time to prevent damage.
Not suitable for all skin types: Individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, or similar conditions may find that skin icing exacerbates their symptoms. Cold temperatures can trigger adverse reactions, leading to increased redness, irritation, or even broken capillaries in those with delicate skin.

Safe ways of going about it
For those intrigued by skin icing and its potential benefits, there are several safe ways to incorporate this practice into your skincare routine. First, always use a barrier between the ice and your skin to prevent direct contact, which can cause irritation or frostbite. Wrap the ice cubes in a clean cloth or use a commercially available ice roller designed specifically for facial use.

These rollers often have a smooth surface and handle, making them easy to use and less harsh on the skin. Limit each icing session to a few minutes and avoid applying ice to any one area for too long. Gently move the ice in circular motions over your face, focusing on areas prone to puffiness, such as under the eyes, but never stay in one spot for more than a few seconds.

In addition to using a barrier, it is also crucial to prep your skin before icing. Start with a clean face to avoid trapping any dirt or makeup particles against your skin. Follow up the icing session with a hydrating serum or moisturiser to replenish any moisture lost during the process and to lock in the benefits. If you have sensitive skin or any existing skin conditions, it is wise to consult with a dermatologist before trying skin icing. They can provide personalised advice and ensure that the practice will not aggravate your skin issues.

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