23 January,2017 08:16 AM IST | | Snigdha Hasan
A new survey says Indians are prone to pigmentation, and premature greying is on the rise. Before you think you are doomed, we got dermats and trichologists to sift fact from fiction
Pigmentation, skin darkening, blemishes, black spots, or the more blatant, imperfections - a quick TV scan is likely to throw up these terms, pointing you in the direction that anything but an even skin tone is a problem that needs rectification, or at least, concealing.
A recent survey on Indian skin and hair via a collaboration between the Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprologists and an international cosmetics company has shown a higher frequency of pigmentation disorder occurrence in Indian population. Facial darkness like melasma and dark circles touch 30 per cent of Indians, it says. But before you get alarmed, it is important to understand that there are multiple kinds of pigmentation, and not all of them need a disease-like treatment. In fact, many have a racial origin (common in a particular skin colour), which explains why a Caucasian model's skin tone may not be the best benchmark for Indians.
The findings also showed that for premature greying, environmental and nutritional factors are as responsible as genetic factors. We spoke to dermatologists and trichologists to sift false alarms from real concerns.
Why we spot
One of the most common kinds of pigmentation is one that runs in families. "Called Pigmentary Demarcation Lines, they appear as wing-like extensions of dark circles that go down to the cheeks or to the sides of the mouth," explains Dr Nina Madnani, consultant dermatologist and hair specialist at PD Hinduja National Hospital. "Our lives would be much simpler if we begin to look at this pigmentation as a variation of the normal, and not a problem or disease," she suggests.
Explaining the predisposition of Indian skin towards pigmentation, Dr Madnani says, "Any pimple or burn leaves behind extra pigmentation in the Indian skin type." Nylon brush dermititis, or pigmentation caused due to physical abrasion of the skin when scrubbed with a loofah or a plastic scrub, too, irritates the Indian skin more than other skin types.
Asians also have a gene for macular amyloidosis, wherein sun exposure can cause bluish-grey pigmentation on the forehead, sides of the face, upper back and arms. This is harmful for the skin and needs medical treatment. Melasma, a similar pigmentation on the cheeks, bridge of the nose, forehead and chin, is more common in North Eastern India, where there may be brief but intense sun exposure.
"Riehl's melanosis is another type of pigmentation one acquires as a reaction to certain chemicals in hair dyes, perfumes, parabens, essential oils, colophony, mustard oil and amla oil. This appears as a patchy pigmentation on the face and neck," says Dr Madnani.
How to treat it?
Unless the pigmentation is skin damaging, which needs a qualified dermatologist's attention, most forms are harmless. "Our idea of what's normal has changed, thanks to fairness-obsessed media messages," says Dr Madnani.
However, when there is cause for concern, each case could have its own triggers. Hormonal imbalance, vitamin deficiencies or fatigue levels could be the cause, says Dr Madnani. Using âanti-marks' products could further aggravate the problem. "Some components in these products make the skin more sensitive to the sun," she adds. In such cases, dermatologists ask the patients to bring all their skin products to review them and zero in on the problematic ingredient.
Dr Madnani also advises against chemical peels, herbal or laser skin-lightening treatments as they are temporary in nature. Premature greying While one of the biggest reasons for premature greying is genetic, the research that was conducted among 4,840 students mentioned environmental and nutritional factors as well. City-based trichologist Dr Shankar Sawant says a growing number of people now approach him with the problem.
"The average Indian age for natural greying is 35 years. Appearance of greys before that can be considered premature," says Dr Sawant. "If not genetic, the cause could be a deficiency of Vitamin B complex or calcium pantothenate, stress or improper diet. Improving the diet by including more green vegetables and proteins is a part of the treatment. Vitamin supplements help, too," he adds. Rarely does greying show a reversal, but these measures certainly help stabilise the process.
Hair fall
"Far more alarming than premature greying is the growing incidence of hair fall or balding, especially among women," shares Dr Madnani. "There are various triggers that cause the gene responsible for hair fall and hair thinning to switch on much earlier. Erratic lifestyle, long intervals between meals, pesticides in food, Vitamin B12, iron and calcium deficiencies, pollutants that can mix with the hair sebum - all cause hair loss," she says. Women suffering from Polycystic Ovarian Disorder (PCOD) often experience hair fall. Restoring hormonal balance can control it.
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